I Broke the Greywater Dump Valve Handle

[1Michigander]

I recently purchased a 1975 Argosy 24. I got it for a pretty good price but the guy I bought it from did not know much more about it than I did. (I researched it on this forum before making my decision to buy it.) He gave me a general idea of how to work everything (or so I thought) so, before taking it on its maden voyage with my family of four I thougt it would be a good idea to "flush the system". It still has that pink stuff in it, which I am assuming is some sort of antifreeze/protectant. I removed the cap, hooked up the hose and proceeded to try to open the Grey Water Dump Valve. You know "Murphy's Law" says if it jams force it. If it breaks it needed replacing anyway. So I forced it. Of course, I broke it. Which made me say, "Oh gosh darn!" Now what? I removed some bolts which hold up the aluminum pannel and I can see where the handle should and does slide back into the valve but now nothing happens. It is my thinking that the valve needs rebuilding at the least and probably replacing. This brings several questions to mind after reading the string, http://www.airforums.com/forums/f444...ves-28812.html.

1.) What is the best way to jack this thing up so I can get under it with enough room to work?
2.) My inclination is to remove this whole big sheet of aluminum across the rear of my Argosy because it is corroded in places and coming lose from the frame and replace it. Should I do that or just do a pach job?
3.) Should I just replace the valve or rebuild it?
4.) While I am under there should I replace the Black Water Valve as well for good measure? I do not think I want to do this twice.

Being a new AS owner and new to travel trailers altogether, makes me wonder whether I should tackle this job myself. Everyone in this forum has been so helpful I am hoping you will give me some sage advice on this matter as well.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by 1Michigander

1.) What is the best way to jack this thing up so I can get under it with enough room to work?

One of two ways. First is to hook up to your tow vehicle, and pull the trailer onto ramps made from stacked 2x6's until it is high enough to work under. Second way is to jack up the side of the trailer you will be working on, and lower the tongue to the ground. If you use this method, make sure you use a jackstand to steady and support it. Use wheel chocks to keep it from rolling.

Originally Posted by 1Michigander

2.) My inclination is to remove this whole big sheet of aluminum across the rear of my Argosy because it is corroded in places and coming lose from the frame and replace it. Should I do that or just do a patch job?

The belly pan is a pretty good size piece of aluminum sheet, why not patch it for now, and add it to your loist of things to replace when you get to it? You may need to go back in there at some point.

Originally Posted by 1Michigander

3.) Should I just replace the valve or rebuild it?

Since you broke it, you might as well replace it, as by the time you get the parts to replace what is broken, plus the parts to rebuild it, you will be close to the cost of a new valve.

Originally Posted by 1Michigander

4.) While I am under there should I replace the Black Water Valve as well for good measure? I do not think I want to do this twice.

The black tank valve, if it is also not stuck or jammed, would be a good candidate for rebuilding. You may as well renew both of them while you are there, you will then have a baseline for when it was last done.

Originally Posted by 1Michigander

Being a new AS owner and new to travel trailers altogether, makes me wonder whether I should tackle this job myself. Everyone in this forum has been so helpful I am hoping you will give me some sage advice on this matter as well.

You never know what you can do until you try. This is a relatively easy repair, consisting mostly of grunt work. If you get stuck, one of us here can probably talk you through it.

[Lumatic]

Before you go though a lot of changes, if you just broke the handle you may be able to screw a long bolt into where the old handle attached and rig a replacement handle. On my 71 I thought I would have to take the trailer apart to fix, but a standard bolt screwed right in. I then attached an improvised handle to the bolt head end and it works just as good as the original.

[wacnstac]

I used a window crank handle with a set screw to fix mine when the plastic grey water t-handle broke off.

[1Michigander]

Wow! Thanks! I thing the 2x6 idea is the way I will go. I would like to have the whole thing off the ground at once. Is it smart to go with these self tapping screws the previous owner used? Steel on aluminum leads to a corrosion problem. I was thinking of purchasing a rivit gun. It seems like it might come in handy more than a few times during my renovation of my Argosy. What are your thoughts?

I will replace both valves rather than rebuild them. I do not mind grunt work but it seems more like replacing both is a "stich in time". You are great, guys. Thanks a million. I will let you know how it goes.

[overlander63]

A rivet gun is mandatory when owning a vintage Airstream product, and one should be included in the purchase price.
As for screws, I hace had good luck using stainless steel screws, there is less corrosion with them as regular zinc plated screws. There is corrosion, but lots less.

[Rusty9]

If you have access to an air tank, Harbour Freight has a pneumatic riveter for $29.99 on line. I had to competely disassembly my bathroom to get the black tank out to repair a leak and the air riveter was a lifesaver....and hand saver.
Marv

[Cable]

Can the handle be purchased somewhere? Inland RV tells me they don't sell just the handle.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by Rusty9

If you have access to an air tank, Harbour Freight has a pneumatic riveter for $29.99 on line. I had to competely disassembly my bathroom to get the black tank out to repair a leak and the air riveter was a lifesaver....and hand saver.
Marv

They have 2 air hydraulic riveters for $39 and $69. I don't see any purely pneumatic for $29. Maybe they quit carrying it. The air hydraulic don't have very good ratings

I assume the aluminum POP rivet is the one to use and not the POM rivet?

[Foiled Again]

Originally Posted by Cable

Can the handle be purchased somewhere? Inland RV tells me they don't sell just the handle.

Many times the handle itself doesn't break, but the plastic gate it is embedded in fatigues, so you're VERY lucky if you can screw a new ANYTHING into the old hole. When one part is starting go give out, it's pretty sure the whole thing is fragile and fatigued. After 25 years of dealing with all kinds of sh** the valve has probably had it.

Paula

[Cable]

I have owned this 11 year old AS for 5 years so there is no way to tell what the valves have been through in the past. What I have started doing is dumping 2 ounces of canola oil into each tank after we come in from a trip. The black is easy but the grey requires a little work. I remove the vacuum break under the lavatory sink and dump the oil into the pipe. It helps to remove the sliding cabinet doors first. The vacuum break is threaded and easy to remove with one hand and no tools. Be careful not to spill any as in time it would stink. The key to a problem free trip is to do the maintenance before hand.