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Old 10-21-2013, 08:47 AM   #21
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Not sure, but

I think my black tank failure might have had something to do with my frame rust.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:53 AM   #22
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New tanks is 1/4" ABS. I tack weld chemically first with Weldon 16. Then, heat weld with a heat weld gun and new ABS 1/8" rod. Final seal coat with MEK disolved ABS regrind painted on with natural bristle brush.

Tough as nails when done. You can't take it apart, and very abrasion resistant.

I'll then wrap the outside of the tank with mylar bubble wrap insulation, but none between the floor of the trailer and top of the tank.

If you're in freezing areas and camp during the winter, would suggest adding a tank heater. I didn't since I'm adding some insulation, and the belly pan adds a little protection, but i'll probably also add antifreeze to the mix.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:05 AM   #23
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Farmerdave, The black tank is supported in place by the tank pan. The toilet, toilet flange and vent must be removed/disconnected as well. Here is a link to pics of a 1966 Safari that I worked on with the same black tank/toilet configuration as you have. 1966 Safari Good luck!
thanks for the link Lance. I didn't realize how much was there until I looked at it a second time. The first time only the first page of pictures loaded on my iPad. The toilet and tank are the same as mine. Very helpful. Thanks a lot.
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:57 AM   #24
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Just a thought, but you might want to test the tank for leaks, once it's out of the trailer, by filling it with water. Ours seems really fragile, it's 50 years old this month, and I'm planning on replacing it when I pull it to fix the box. This might be one of those things you're better off replacing, rather than going through all the work of reinstalling the old one and THEN having it leak.
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:33 PM   #25
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Here's what I've got so far. Ew.
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:34 PM   #26
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Some kind of tar like seal.
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:30 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by farmerdave View Post
thanks for the link Lance. I didn't realize how much was there until I looked at it a second time. The first time only the first page of pictures loaded on my iPad. The toilet and tank are the same as mine. Very helpful. Thanks a lot.
You are very welcome.
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Old 11-01-2013, 01:00 PM   #28
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I'm developing an intense dislike of whatever PO used inch and a quarter sheet metal screws all over the rear belly pan and then smeared all of them with some kind of putty on the heads so a nut driver won't fit. I have to chip it off each head before I can get them out. What a pain in the A.
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:04 PM   #29
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Making progress. Belly pan is off from the stabilizers back to the bumper.

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Old 11-10-2013, 09:05 PM   #30
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Cross members look remarkably good I think
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Old 11-10-2013, 10:51 PM   #31
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That frame looks great!
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Old 11-11-2013, 08:46 AM   #32
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Any idea what valve to use instead of the old brass one? From what I understand they tend to leak.

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Old 11-11-2013, 09:02 PM   #33
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Plywood is not too bad for 1965. I'm making a stainless tank to replace the plastic black tank that was beyond repair.
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:21 AM   #34
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Any idea what valve to use instead of the old brass one? From what I understand they tend to leak.

Attachment 199733
FarmerDave,
Joe gives great instructions here-
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...tml#post104519
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Old 11-12-2013, 04:28 PM   #35
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Excellent! That's what I was looking for.
Thanks
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