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john hd · 01-18-2009, 07:45 PM

roger and roxie,

time to fire up the way back machine!

basicly, the white part goes into the tank as the new stub i made from a piece of abs pipe.

it is held in place by the aircraft grade hose clamp AND the adheasive properties of the vulkem.

i got the old one out by cutting almost all the way through it with a blind hacksaw. after it was cut most of the way i snapped it out of there with a pliers.

john

casarodante · 01-18-2009, 08:07 PM

When you cut between the white valve attachment (that piece that screws on to the valve itself) and the tank, did you do it closer to the valve or the tank?

You made a black stub, attached it to a new valve attachment with Vulkem, slid the stub into the tank (more Vulkem, then clamped it?

Just trying to get it straight in my head.

Thanks.

john hd · 01-19-2009, 04:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caadoptees

When you cut between the white valve attachment (that piece that screws on to the valve itself) and the tank, did you do it closer to the valve or the tank?

You made a black stub, attached it to a new valve attachment with Vulkem, slid the stub into the tank (more Vulkem, then clamped it?

Just trying to get it straight in my head.

Thanks.

let's see, the white stub was broken almost all the way around, as i remember it just snapped off. i would cut it if i had to closer to the valve since you are replacing that part.

the new black stub was glued to the valve attachment with black ABS cement and then the assembly was coated with vulkem where it slid INTO the tank.

it could be possible you may find a replacement white one and can skip the ABS cement portion of the assembly.

i'd call around and see what is available, i just made my own since that was all that was available at the time.

john

casarodante · 01-28-2009, 10:40 PM

The leak is fixed now. I must confess that I did take it to a local RV repair to finish it up. Now that was a hard step for me since it is the first time that anyone other than me has worked on it. However, as I get older that imaginary line between saving money versus convenience becomes more and more blurred. We do also have a 2 week trip coming up so there was a time crunch coming.

The white flange was leaking (like John HD's and my black tank flange) and broke off when they repaired it. I had already got the flange from Out of Doors in North Carolina. It was delivered fast. This made the local repair go much more smoothly.

I am glad it is done and thanks to the forum members for the ideas and support.

tvanwave · 08-14-2010, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john hd

then i cut a hole and found the problem.

Im planning for the same operation this fall to replace both valves (since im in the vicinity). I will buy a whole new valve assembly. Did you use a sabre saw or tin snips to make the opening?

casarodante · 08-14-2010, 05:39 PM

I will butt in here. I used tin snips. Using a right hand or left hand (depending on cut direction) is easier than the straight ones. My first attempt I cut some sensor wires so be careful.

tvanwave · 08-14-2010, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by casarodante

I will butt in here. I used tin snips. Using a right hand or left hand (depending on cut direction) is easier than the straight ones. My first attempt I cut some sensor wires so be careful.

OK - will do. i"ll have to buy some snips. I was thinking a sabre saw with a shortened blade might work but snips might be less likely to damage things

casarodante · 08-15-2010, 12:28 AM

You can go much slower with the snips and once you start, you can get your hand inside to check for wires as you go.

Dave Park · 08-15-2010, 12:55 AM

Although, if you don't want to put your hand through a sharp edged hole into a black water tank to feel around, nobody would blame you...

altnbndr · 08-15-2010, 01:00 AM

I have been a union sheet metal worker (local # 162) for over 20years. I cut metal on a daily basis, I would recommend that you make these cuts with Midwest offset snips available at Sears. The offset snips allow for the metal to feed out of the cut (curl).You will need reds and greens. Red handled snips are for making left cuts ,Greens are for making right cuts. hope this helps.

polarlyse · 09-01-2010, 01:54 PM

The cutting of the hole is pretty straightforward. Is there any guideline for locating the hole so it will provide best access to replace the valves ???? What is recommended to close up the open area after the repair is done ???? I guess the "dump" connection will give a basic starting point but so as not to cut any more than necessary it would be nice to have a general guide.

Are both valves the same ??? Is there a repair that will take care of a valve that is simply seeping or is it best to replace ????

Thanks all,

tvanwave · 09-21-2010, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by polarlyse

The cutting of the hole is pretty straightforward. Is there any guideline for locating the hole so it will provide best access to replace the valves ???? What is recommended to close up the open area after the repair is done ???? I guess the "dump" connection will give a basic starting point but so as not to cut any more than necessary it would be nice to have a general guide.

Are both valves the same ??? Is there a repair that will take care of a valve that is simply seeping or is it best to replace ????

Thanks all,

I was able to look into the drain valve area and the thetford valve part number for my AS was stamped right on the valve. I assume both valves are the same but will check with Inland when I place the order.

tvanwave · 09-27-2010, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tvanwave

I was able to look into the drain valve area and the thetford valve part number for my AS was stamped right on the valve. I assume both valves are the same but will check with Inland when I place the order.

Inland thinks both of my valves are the same. Ordered two and will find out next weekend!

Bob Thompson · 12-21-2010, 04:30 PM

Time came to fix my own leaking grey water valve. Taking John HD's lead, I decided to make a real access panel so I could get to the dump valve area without a lot of fuss. To make the access panel, I first had to let the tank holding pan down so I could make my cuts. To do this, I remove the pan mounting bolts on the driver side, the front and on the rear of the pan. This let the pan drape down so I could get at it with my jig saw. I chose to cut out a section of the holding tank pan and use that cut out section as an access panel. I used a 1" aluminum channel to straddle the cut seam so I could reattache the access panel. In this pic, the grey valve has been removed.

I pop riveted the aluminum channel to the tank pan body:

Here's a pic with the grey valve back in place. Turned out, the OEM mounting flange which connects the holding tank to the valve fell apart from age. I think it was made of styrene plastic. The replacement is PVC

Here's the access panel reinstalled and everything trimmed and ready to go. The access panel can now be removed by taking out about 17 screws and 2 bolts, exposing all the valve assemblies.

Easy to do repairs there from now on!