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Old 05-23-2015, 09:05 AM   #21
Rivet Master
 
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2005 30' Classic
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
Quote:
Originally Posted by chaeha View Post
Great info. So you had to add an adapter to make it fit and clear everything else in its way? If you get a chance to take a pic that would be great. Thanks.
Yep, the only reason I needed the adapter is that Valterra "ears" or "lugs" or whatever you call them are not compatible with the similar but not identical Thetford equivalents.

There were no clearance issues or anything with our 2005 Classic 30. I was just concerned that the whole contraption might stick out too far and look unsightly and be more vulnerable to damage, but it is not bad at all.

I don't know why AS don't use Valterra as it seems to be the "RV standard" these days and is much easier to find at Walmart etc.

Our trailer is in storage quiet a distance from our house, but I will try to get a pic next time I am out there.

Brian.


PS - I suppose the added valve could also be handy if one of the actual valves ever jammed in the open position.

In reality though I guess what is more likely to happen is that one of the handles pulls off and the valve stays jammed shut. In that case the extra valve is no help at all - at least until you can manage to get the working valve open.

Something I have always dreaded happening - especially on the black tank! I really don't know how I would deal with that - I suppose I would try to get the black tank pumped out from the top, then cut and access hole in the belly pan and remove the defective valve assembly. Hope it never happens!
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2005 Classic 30'
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2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
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Old 05-23-2015, 12:04 PM   #22
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
One of my valves had a major seal problem. Somehow the rubber seal stuck out enough that the blade caught it and then it would not close all the way. I expect something got stuck in it and it was forced shut. This was on the black water side which is worse than a gray water leak. Also the seals can crack over time. They will eventually wear out.

I think the seal lube is glycerine which is a water soluble lube. I rebuilt mine a while back and coated everything with silicone grease. So far so good. Can you get to the valve from the inside with your hand? They make a pipe thing with a right angle hole in it that you put on a garden hose. You stick it up the dump pipe and rotate the jet so it cleans all the junk out of the valve body and seal area.

Perry
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Old 05-23-2015, 05:18 PM   #23
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2005 30' Classic
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
Yep, the only reason I needed the adapter is that Valterra "ears" or "lugs" or whatever you call them are not compatible with the similar but not identical Thetford equivalents.

There were no clearance issues or anything with our 2005 Classic 30. I was just concerned that the whole contraption might stick out too far and look unsightly and be more vulnerable to damage, but it is not bad at all.

I don't know why AS don't use Valterra as it seems to be the "RV standard" these days and is much easier to find at Walmart etc.

Our trailer is in storage quiet a distance from our house, but I will try to get a pic next time I am out there.

Brian.


PS - I suppose the added valve could also be handy if one of the actual valves ever jammed in the open position.

In reality though I guess what is more likely to happen is that one of the handles pulls off and the valve stays jammed shut. In that case the extra valve is no help at all - at least until you can manage to get the working valve open.

Something I have always dreaded happening - especially on the black tank! I really don't know how I would deal with that - I suppose I would try to get the black tank pumped out from the top, then cut and access hole in the belly pan and remove the defective valve assembly. Hope it never happens!

Further to this post earlier today, I was out at our trailer this afternoon and took a couple of pics of the extra Valterra valve easily installed where the drain cap normally goes.

Someone asked for the pic, but I never seem to have success trying to post pictures on the forum. If anyone needs the pics and wants to PM with with email address, I will send them!

Brian.
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2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
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Old 05-24-2015, 12:05 PM   #24
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2008 27' International FB
Venice , Florida
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 706
Images: 14
I will attempt to post a few pictures of the valve for all to view. Excuse the dirt spots etc. Must do some cleaning.

You will note that I have aluminum taped the valve where it attaches to the original main discharge. The reason for this is that there is a slight movement there when connecting and disconnecting the drain hose etc..
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Old 05-30-2015, 05:17 PM   #25
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1991 34' Excella
Boerne , Texas
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 119
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I would like to know what the additional length will be if I add the Thetford to Valterra adaptor plus the Valterra twist on valve. Could you give it a quick measure please? Looking at your pics, I was surprised that the valve doesn't sit in the horizontal position considering the Thetford pins and Valterra pins are that orientation? Is something else rotated that I can't see?

Oh well, I'm interested in the extra length measurement.
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1991 34' excella 1000, bought 05/10, oak floors, granite countertops, Marble bathroom counter and floor, 2 A/C's, 2005 Hensley. 1600 Watts Solar/ 400Ah Lithium batteries
Tow With: 2006 Dodge 2500 Quad LB 2WD, 5.9 Cummins, Edge Insight CTS, Smarty Jr, Bilstein Shocks, Ingalls balljoints.
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