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Old 11-23-2020, 04:49 PM   #1
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Louisville , Kentucky
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Gray tank in belly

Hi all, I'm converting our '77 Argosy from rear bath to mid-bath. In order to do so, I'll need to put the gray tank bewteen the axels. This should be a plus for weight distribution and get rid of the typical rear-end separation.

However, I'm running into a problem with plumbing the actual tank. I have about 5" to work with under the subfloor, but I also know I need to have the shower/sinks flow into the tank from the top, which means I probably need something like 2-3" for that plumbing.

What is the best solution here, has anyone done their gray tank fully under the sub-floor? And if so, what was your solution for this issue?

I've already got the shell off and frame structure ready for rust prevention, so any type of solution is in the cards at this point.

Thanks!
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Old 11-23-2020, 05:15 PM   #2
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
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I don’t think you have to drain into the top of the tank. If your shower drain is at the top of your subfloor, you can place a short 90, place a Hepvo trap and drain into the side of the tank. The water will fill the tank up to the level of the drain. The Hepvo will disallow water to back into the shower. I have two 16 gallon tanks that are connected low on the sides. Both tanks will fill with the shower connected to the side. Water seeks its own level, so both tanks have equal levels. I got the idea from Colin Hyde. I may have pictures on our renovation thread. I’m sure someone else can explain it more clearly. By the way, our chassis frame is only 4”. Good luck
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Old 11-23-2020, 05:55 PM   #3
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Longmont , Colorado
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On my 2013 25FB, the floor of the shower is a few inches higher than the main floor. The drain goes into a P trap, then has a near-horizontal run aft for a couple of feet, then an elbow, then another near-horizontal run to a T which dumps into the top of the gray tank. So that's another way to do it.



BTW, the T has an air admittance valve on top (which gets dirty water splashed up into it if I tow with a full gray tank).
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Old 11-23-2020, 06:04 PM   #4
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1972 23' Safari
Middletown , Rhode Island
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I just did this...

I just installed a 25 gallon grey tank in my 72 safari a few months back, I basically plumbed the shower drain to the grey tank but at its highest point from the side that I could put it. I also have a hepvo valve which I haven't installed to my shower drain yet. That should help with any back flow.
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Old 11-23-2020, 06:21 PM   #5
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1958 26' Overlander
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I agree with Bubba, you can put your fittings on the side. On my 2 GW tanks I have fittings on both top and side. They're both below the sub-floor.

Also keep in mind that if headroom allows, you could raise your shower tray a little. Considering how much shorter these drain lines are vs. a house, a fraction of an inch can offer a solution. I had to raise my tub 3/4" to get enough slope on the drain line.

Just a note about my experience with the Hepvo traps. I found that water could leak back into the bath tub. I think it was a unique combination of a full GW tank and traveling over mountain grades. The drain goes into the rear corner of the GW tank and all that water created enough pressure for a little leakage. It's only happened once, but to make sure I added a Valterra valve to the drain line that I close when we're on the road. No big deal.
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Old 11-23-2020, 07:18 PM   #6
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
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Originally Posted by 57Vintage View Post
I agree with Bubba, you can put your fittings on the side. On my 2 GW tanks I have fittings on both top and side. They're both below the sub-floor.

Also keep in mind that if headroom allows, you could raise your shower tray a little. Considering how much shorter these drain lines are vs. a house, a fraction of an inch can offer a solution. I had to raise my tub 3/4" to get enough slope on the drain line.

Just a note about my experience with the Hepvo traps. I found that water could leak back into the bath tub. I think it was a unique combination of a full GW tank and traveling over mountain grades. The drain goes into the rear corner of the GW tank and all that water created enough pressure for a little leakage. It's only happened once, but to make sure I added a Valterra valve to the drain line that I close when we're on the road. No big deal.
Now you have me thinking Harold. I haven’t really used the shower, but maybe I’ll add a ball valve underneath just in case. I have the shower piping to the gray tank covered with a piece of the belly pan installed with rivnuts in the event I need to replace the Hepvo. Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 11-23-2020, 09:06 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Bubba L View Post
Now you have me thinking Harold. I haven’t really used the shower, but maybe I’ll add a ball valve underneath just in case. I have the shower piping to the gray tank covered with a piece of the belly pan installed with rivnuts in the event I need to replace the Hepvo. Thanks for the heads up.
Hope you can install somewhere easily accessible. Mine's under the curb side twin bed.
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Old 11-24-2020, 06:24 AM   #8
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Louisville , Kentucky
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Lots of great information here... thank you all! Seems like HepVO is the way to go. One last question is where would I locate the dump valve for a mid-bath? Is there any reason it needs to be super close to the tank? Or can I run the pipe to the back of the trailer where the previous one came through the bumper? If it helps, I’m using a composting toilet, so no black tank.
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Old 11-24-2020, 07:01 AM   #9
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As long as you get sufficient slope go wherever you want. Without a tank in the rear I'd tend to want the drain closer to the tank. Less chance of damage in case you accidently drag the bumper on the ground. Probably not real close to wheels in case they throw up road debris.

If you don't have a sewer hose yet, or plan to replace, I'd suggest looking at Lippert's system. They don't use ears to secure the hose it's a cam lock fitting.

http://drainmaster.com/rv/products/full-view/100187
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Old 11-24-2020, 12:32 PM   #10
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If you put the dump valve in back you'll have extra grey water space within the pipes to use.
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Old 11-24-2020, 12:34 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickknack View Post
Lots of great information here... thank you all! Seems like HepVO is the way to go. One last question is where would I locate the dump valve for a mid-bath? Is there any reason it needs to be super close to the tank? Or can I run the pipe to the back of the trailer where the previous one came through the bumper? If it helps, I’m using a composting toilet, so no black tank.
Hey nicknack I also have a composting toilet, a Natures Head which I diverted the urine into my grey tank. Just a thought....
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Old 11-24-2020, 02:00 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Mx468 View Post
If you put the dump valve in back you'll have extra grey water space within the pipes to use.
My thoughts exactly!
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Old 11-24-2020, 02:01 PM   #13
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Hey nicknack I also have a composting toilet, a Natures Head which I diverted the urine into my grey tank. Just a thought....
I was planning on doing the same... great minds and all!
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Old 11-24-2020, 02:34 PM   #14
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1972 23' Safari
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If you need any help pm me and you can pick my brain on how I set everything up while it’s still fresh up in the ole noggin but you better hurry it’s fading fast
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Old 11-26-2020, 11:56 AM   #15
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1971 25' Tradewind
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By chance do you have more pictures of your tank installation? I'm wanting to put GW tanks in my 1971 25' Tradewind.
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Old 11-29-2020, 09:36 AM   #16
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2005 22' Interstate
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Vent Location?

The vent location will determine the fill level of the tank. If you have a vent at the top of the tank it can fill completely.
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Old 01-31-2021, 01:00 AM   #17
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1975 31' Sovereign
Stanton , Nebraska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickknack View Post
Lots of great information here... thank you all! Seems like HepVO is the way to go. One last question is where would I locate the dump valve for a mid-bath? Is there any reason it needs to be super close to the tank? Or can I run the pipe to the back of the trailer where the previous one came through the bumper? If it helps, I’m using a composting toilet, so no black tank.
I’m in the same predicament right now .. I love the easy access of the dump valve in the rear but it will be a longer distance would an inline macerator pump be the answer to keeping it in the rear ? My first post and first airstream, thx for your help
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Old 01-31-2021, 06:10 AM   #18
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
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rhonda70, we did install a macerator pump in the bumper trunk to suck the water out. It runs on 12vdc and a waterproof switch to turn it on. We have water hose fittings with a wand. We also installed a gravity flow ball valve fitting in the event the pump goes out or to winterize. There’s a picture on post #46 of our reno thread below. I would do it again. Good luck
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Old 01-31-2021, 06:12 AM   #19
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1972 31' Sovereign
Silverton , Oregon
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Lifting the Trailer helps a lot with this,
I had to put my gray tank one bay back from the shower drain.
I used a Tee on the outlet of the drain to plumb the shower in. then I had one penetration on the curb side for the kitchen, and one on the road side tied into the black tank vent for venting. Works great I used Hepvo valves so my shower didn't back up.
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Old 02-01-2021, 10:47 AM   #20
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1975 31' Sovereign
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Thx for the info ! One more random question / thought. My current freshwater tank kinda creeps me out since it’s so old I’m wondering if I could use that as the grey tank and order a new fresh tank? Since it’s only grey water I figured I could use smaller exit plumbing. My husband is in charge of the frame and I get the plumbing
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