Gray Dump Valve Leak

[TravisH]

Hi,

2019 FC with covered black and gray tanks. Today after filling gray tank a pint or so of gray water leaked out when I pulled the cap to attach the slinky.

The covered tanks make this look like a bigger job that it should be!

I suppose it's an issue I could live with; just keep tank empty until hooked up. Since it was a full tank for several days and only a pint or so does not suggest a major leak but still concerning.

Should I really consider a take apart and new parts or maybe just add another valve to the end of the outlet.

Is there an additive of some sort to lube the valve?

Any suggestions appreciated!

Trav

[Wazbro]

I believe adding another valve is a good idea regardless.
With that said you could try flushing out the gray valve and check it again, it doesn't take much for a small piece of something getting stuck in the valve to make a small leak like you had.

[Bill M.]

It is a big job. The way to access the valves is to cut a hole in the galvanized cover under the valves and then screw or rivet a cover over the hole when finished. We can talk about the mechanics of that if you decide to do the job. I have used the add on valve and really did not like it at all. It sticks out just waiting to hit something. At best a temporary solution until you can get a fix. I would rather hook the hose to the campsite dump fitting first and then just hold it under the trailer dump cap when I take it off.

The first thing to do is to be sure the valve is clear and does not have something stuck on it. That is most likely your problem. I have washed them with a hose from the outside. When and if you get it clear use the valve lubricant at intervals.

Dump valves are a big job but well worth the fix than they go bad. Very annoying.

[TravisH]

Originally Posted by Bill M.

When and if you get it clear use the valve lubricant at intervals.
.

I'm not familiar with any valve lubricants. Could you suggest some and to apply?

Thanks!

Trav

[CRH]

Cooking oil will lube the valves as well as anything.

[TravisH]

Originally Posted by CRH

Cooking oil will lube the valves as well as anything.

So just dump some in the tank?

Thanks!

Trav

[CRH]

Yes, just dump it in the tank. Used cooking oil will do. Stop by a restaurant and see if they will give you a 3 gallon jug.

[Bill M.]

Or just buy a container of the dump valve lubricant sold where tv supplies are sold.

[richard5933]

Here's a link to the thread showing my waste valve replacement process. Older trailer, but I doubt the process has changed too much. Likely you'll have a different valve inside, so check a site like Woodland Airstream or Out of Doors Mart to find the correct one.

The whole job took me one morning to do, including flushing the tanks before starting. Having an electric sheet metal snippers from Harbor Freight was key to making it easy to open the belly pan to gain access.

[Silvr_Bullet]

In addition to lubricating the dump valve gasket start from your toilet this will also help lubricate the dump valve O ring.

Using this or similar rinsing valve also helps clear debris from around and behind the dump valve.

Camco Rhino Blaster Camper/RV Tank Rinser | Features a Vacuum Breaker to Stop Backflow & Clear 45-Degree Elbow | Includes 360-Degree Swivel Fitting & 4-Prong Bayonet Swivel Fitting (39080) https://a.co/d/85pZEbS

[TravisH]

Originally Posted by richard5933

Here's a link to the thread showing my waste valve replacement process. Older trailer, but I doubt the process has changed too much. Likely you'll have a different valve inside, so check a site like Woodland Airstream or Out of Doors Mart to find the correct one.

The whole job took me one morning to do, including flushing the tanks before starting. Having an electric sheet metal snippers from Harbor Freight was key to making it easy to open the belly pan to gain access.

I don't see the link...I'm curious as this WILL be a project down the road I'm sure.

Thanks!

[dnsapp]

A couple of years ago my black tank valve would not completely close. My 2018 FC 25 FB has the metal covered tanks and you can’t see the valve. I took the trailer to Lazy Days for some repairs. They dropped the tank covers which was a 4 hour charge at the rate of $130 per hour. One thing that rubbed me the wrong way was once they dropped the tank covers they only sort of cleaned out the gate valve and didn’t replace the $20 dollar valve. It still has some leakage. I recommend always replacing the faulty part in case the gasket is bad. Have a list of what you want done and how you want the repair done when you leave your RV to be repaired. I learned my lesson. It cost $500 in this repair for the repair shop not to even replace a $20 part that’s still not completely fix it.

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by TravisH

I don't see the link...I'm curious as this WILL be a project down the road I'm sure.

Thanks!

Sorry - forgot to include the link...

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...ml#post2618503

[lemley]

I occasionally have a leak. Sometimes it can be pretty annoying. I make a habit of connecting the downstream end of the stinky slinky first, then holding the upstream end under the cover while removing the cover.

To help with prevention, I use the Camco lubricant from time to time. I also use Valterra Pure Power Blue from time to time. It lubricates as well. Cleaning from the outside is a good idea from time to time. While we normally use the stinky slinky, I use a Valterra Sewer Solution about 10 times a year and when I do I back flush the downstream parts of the sewer, operating the valves in the process. I think it helps remove some of the buildup. With all of that the problem is minimal.

One day those steps will not work. At that time I will have the pleasure of changing the valve.

[NO NOIZE]

Lots of ideas on this thread:

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...al-230773.html

[The Cralls]

I had an issue with the valves leaking and getting hard to operate. I went to Lowes and got some #10 stainless steel sheet metal screws about 1/8 inch long. I drilled a small hole in the valve just above the handle and put in the sheet metal screw as a plug. Now once a season, I take some silicone spray, insert the tube in to the hole spray in an generous amount and cycle the valve several times. Then I reinstall the screw. Here is the link to the site showing how to drill, lube and install the screw. https://senormisterioso.wordpress.co...-sewer-valves/

[dnsapp]

I had the same on my black tank. AS needed to put access ports in the tank covers with removable screws. I took my trailer to Lazydays and got charged $1,200 for them to fix my problem. My friend had the same problem and got charged $2,200 dollars. Lazydays didn’t even replace the $18 valve they just cleaned it out and it ended up being some calking when the tank was installed at the factory that was stuck in the valve. There is no way one person can manage dropping and reinstalling the covers.

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by dnsapp

I had the same on my black tank. AS needed to put access ports in the tank covers with removable screws. I took my trailer to Lazydays and got charged $1,200 for them to fix my problem. My friend had the same problem and got charged $2,200 dollars. Lazydays didn’t even replace the $18 valve they just cleaned it out and it ended up being some calking when the tank was installed at the factory that was stuck in the valve. There is no way one person can manage dropping and reinstalling the covers.

It's not necessary (or generally recommended) to drop the belly pans under the tanks to service the tank valves. Putting in a removable access cover is not that difficult and the way to go.