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Old 05-22-2005, 04:41 PM   #21
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Over,

Your brass valve must be VERY different than the ones that were used in the 70's. The 70's used a multiple piece plastic affair that had 2 halves, as well as a blade. This is all held together with a seal kit and a bunch of screws. I have never had the opportunity to see one of the brass ones apart but I would bet they can be serviced.
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Old 05-22-2005, 04:52 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by thenewkid64
Over,

Your brass valve must be VERY different than the ones that were used in the 70's. The 70's used a multiple piece plastic affair that had 2 halves, as well as a blade. This is all held together with a seal kit and a bunch of screws. I have never had the opportunity to see one of the brass ones apart but I would bet they can be serviced.
Only the holes for the flange bolts have a ?brass? insert which holds it together.
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Old 05-22-2005, 05:52 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Over59
Only the holes for the flange bolts have a ?brass? insert which holds it together.
In my case, Yes. There were several other SS screws to be removed, but the brass grommets had to be drilled out to disassemble the valve.

That in itself was no big deal, but forming the new grommets, which came with the rebuild kit, was. I modified an old die & mandrel used when making new tent tie-down grommets for the task.

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Old 05-22-2005, 06:07 PM   #24
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You are telling me that the part that the blade is in comes apart? How do you deal with the brass sleaves for the bolts that hold it to the flange? I took all the little screws out and could not pry it apart without the risk for damage.

I'll call Thetford tomorrow morning. 219 294-6491. Very nice woman last time. I got the impression she has been there awhile and didn't even have to look stuff up.

Thanks
Mine had no brass sleeves in them. It seems like yours may be stuck from "material" being deposited into the nooks and crannies. YUCK! I flushed my tank out with a good mixture of bleach and water before I attempted to remove it. That made it much more bearable.
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Old 05-23-2005, 06:47 AM   #25
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Old 05-23-2005, 07:14 AM   #26
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I need to add a question to this thread

Im looking at my new dump valve sitting here on my desk. The original one has no handle. Looks easy slap in a new one 4 screws....I can get to the 2 upper screws the bottom ones are a different story. Started to pull back the belly pan underneath the dump valve. Now we come to the galvanized box. I could almost get to the screws from the bumper area but on the left the grey water pipe is in the way. So even if I was able to remove the 4 screws It looks like I would have to cut the grey pipe somewhere to get the whole thing out.
To make matters worse the po lived in this unit for 10 years and used the head everyday. So I tried to hose the tank out but since I cant fill it and dump it, its disgusting. When I got back from camping this weekend there was you know what all over the inside of the bumper and there were a massive amount of maggots in with it. Besides the fact that it was a huge bummer to have to walk to the outhouse to use the restroom in the middle of the night. Or in the day for that matter.
Anyways you think I can handle this or should I throw in the towel and pay someone to replace it? Are there any tricks to gaining access to the bottom of the valve? any tricks to replace the valve?
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Old 05-23-2005, 07:16 AM   #27
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After being on hold for 15 min I found that the number 01447 doesn't help. It's the plate number and doesn't id the gate. Nice lady is sending pictures so maybe I'll be able to id it. Otherwise a new gate and collector will work????
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Old 05-23-2005, 02:31 PM   #28
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Ok. After several attempts they faxed a sheet with pictures of flat gate valves and the "new" part numbers. Right there was the "obsolete stainless steel basic valve". Number part number for the gate which fits into the collector without a handle is 33399 and costs $47 shipped. Requires extension handle. With handle it is 33398.
Should have it by Friday am.
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