Custom grey and black tank fabricators/suppliers and advice!!

[A-Merry-Can]

Hi all,

I need to have a black tank made for one of my trailers that matches the rear curve, and I thought I'd see who everyone uses for custom fabrication?

Originally, I had planned to put the toilet on the floor, and run a 90 degree bend to the black tank under the floor. The toilet sits on the back corner, just outside the main frame rail, and the tank area hangs between the frame rails in the middle.

After looking at numerous plans, it seems like the best way is to drop directly into the tank, though so now I'm thinking about something above the floor.

Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!

JP

[purman]

YES, You want it to drop straight into the tank. You won't have enough water to run it through a pipe unless your hooked up, and then you black tank will fill up fast.

You could try your local RV dealer. some of them have people who make custom tanks, but it won't be cheap. Probably over $500 for a curved one... And it will have to be fiberglass is my guess...

[flyfshr]

When I needed a fresh water tank, I contacted All-Rite.com. They wanted a very detailed drawing with the dimensions along with the exact placement and diameter of the inlet & outlet holes. I am very happy with it. I've also heard folks use Inca Plastics but don't know about the results.

Good luck on your decision.

Brad
FF

[A-Merry-Can]

That was quick! Thanks! I'll send them both a note and see what they want for it.

JP

[utee94]

You might consider having a metal fabricator make one for you out of stainless. Since I know you like the look of exposed metal, you wouldn't even need to cover it with anything at all, unless you wanted to.

I know Rob Baker has a guy up in his neck of the woods who made his freshwater tanks for him out of stainless, and his buddy John (RoverOwner here on the Forums) had the same guy fabricate an above-the-floor black tank for his '61 Ambassador out of stainless as well.






-Marcus

[SilverHoot]

Wow! I love those stainless tanks. If mine were going above the floor I'd definitely check into that.

[flyfshr]

Are the stainless tanks strong enough on top to support a toilet, the water inside plus the person's body weight? Seems it would really need to be supported on the inside if you wanted clean, unobtrusive lines on the top of the tank. I thought about stainless when I redid my black tank but I'm 6'4" and at the time was 295 pounds. The thought of a stainless tank was a short-lived one.

Brad
FF

[utee94]

That I don't know, Brad.

I think John is planning on building a surround for it, and I don't know if his intent is for that surround to bear some of the weight of the person using the turlet.

Of course, you could always have it built from plastic or fiberglass, and shroud it with wood...



-Marcus

[dieseleagle]

Our plan calls for moving the bath to center curbside and putting the potable water tank under the floor just ahead of the axle. The grey tank is just behind the axle. We got our potable and grey tanks from pplmotorhomes and our blacktank/showerpan combo, which is above the floor as a wet bath, from pellandent.com. plastic-mart.com and tank-depot.com have very extensive inventories.

[VIKING]

norcalbambi had something in his thread about making custom tanks from sheet foam and fiberglass. Maybe useful in this case? I think it's in his flying cloud thread.

Rich

[pbearsailor]

Originally Posted by VIKING

norcalbambi had something in his thread about making custom tanks from sheet foam and fiberglass. Maybe useful in this case? I think it's in his flying cloud thread.

Rich

Yes, that's where it is. I'm planning to do it that way for my black tank, but I won't be getting around to it for a few more months.

cheers,
steve

[A-Merry-Can]

ok. calling tomorrow to get a quote on a stainless tank!! I did the math, and I should be able to get a little over 10 gallons of stinky water above the floor. a gallon is 231 ci.

did I need to get a stainless toilet mount? or just use the plastic ones with a gasket?

JP

[utee94]

Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can

did I need to get a stainless toilet mount? or just use the plastic ones with a gasket?

JP

I'm not certain, I've asked Rob's buddy John to weigh in with his thoughts on this, hopefully he'll check this thread tomorrow and give you some insights.

[RoverOwner]

That is my tank that Marcus posted pictures of.

The tank is very heavy duty. It would support all the weight you could put on it. The price you pay for such a sturdy tank, however, is lots of weight. I would guess the tank weighs around 80 pounds. I had it built by Daryl at Pharsalia Metal Fabrication in Pharsalia, NY. He is local to me, otherwise I'm sure shipping would be quite expensive. I gave Daryl my original fiberglass tank to copy, and he put the inlet, outlet, and vent holes in the same spots using stainless fittings. You then use plastic fittings which screw directly into your tank.

Cost of the tank was $600. A little bit pricey, but I will never have to deal with any issues in the future with the tank. This was very important top me, as to get the tank back out, the vanity and wardrobe must be removed first.

I can get Daryl's contact information for you, if you like.

Best of luck
John

[A-Merry-Can]

i got 2 quotes for my tank set up, $480 and $340... guess which one I'm going with? :-D I'm going to get the ball rolling Monday morning. I'll post pics of it when I get it.

Cheers!

JP

[utee94]

Which material? The stainless?

[InsideOut]

Sorry to get into this discussion late...

We had the same scenario, except our corner tank is in the front. We went with a plastic tank from All-Rite. We added an extra outrigger to that area to help with the added weight of a full tank + toilet + body. We then covered the tank top & exposed front in 20 ga. stainless steel. Also our wood walls were covered in a lighter weight (24 ga.) stainless steel.

I have posted a drawing & several pictures when we ordered it starting around post #140 and then installation progress photos starting around post #345 - #369 or so in our "It's a Girl!!!" thread...although it seems like this info may be too late for you ~

Shari

[utee94]

Originally Posted by InsideOut

Sorry to get into this discussion late...

We had the same scenario, except our corner tank is in the front. We went with a plastic tank from All-Rite. We added an extra outrigger to that area to help with the added weight of a full tank + toilet + body. We then covered the tank top & exposed front in 20 ga. stainless steel. Also our wood walls were covered in a lighter weight (24 ga.) stainless steel.

I have posted a drawing & several pictures when we ordered it starting around post #140 and then installation progress photos starting around post #345 - #369 or so in our "It's a Girl!!!" thread...although it seems like this info may be too late for you ~

Shari

Yes, I remember this picture well, from my research on the Major Reno threads. I really like how you showed how everything was custom-made to fit precisely:




-Marcus

[InsideOut]

Glad to be a help Marcus...as a matter of fact, we referred to your curved corner cabinet pics last night. Our Safari had curved corners on the beds and we were debating whether to re-make ours from scratch like you did or to use the existing corners we already have. FWIW we decided to re-use our existing ones, then veneer over them like we did on most of our other woodwork.

Shari

[A-Merry-Can]

That quote I got was for stainless. What were the prices for the plastic? I think I prefer the stainless for the look, but if plastic is that much less, I could be fiscally swayed... :-D

JP