Black tank valve replacement

[seanph]

Hi,
My wife and I are full timers in our 2005 30ft Classic, and we have run into an issue that requires a little community assistance. Our Airstream has a belly pan that covers the valves to both the black and grey tanks. Unfortunately, or black tank valve is stuck in the open position and will not close.
I have ordered the replacement valve (and 2 bend handle- which is silly expensive), and all that is required now is access to the valve.
I’ve read in another thread that they had to cut a hole in the bedpan using snips.
Does anyone have experience with this problem, and how did you fix it?
Any help is much appreciated
Sean

[CRH]

I did it. I cut a small hole to peep in and see where I needed to cut an access hole. I cut the bigger hole and did the work. There was nothing particularly hard about the job. I went to a recycler and bought an old street sign to make an access over. There is another member with a detailed write up on the job. I am sure he will come along with a link.

FWIW, I would replace both valves while I was in there.

[seanph]

Thank you- I started the cutting today and plan on finishing it up tomorrow.

I don’t understand why Airstream didn’t put access panels to(important )parts that need replacing

Thanks again for responding
S

[Tim A.]

Originally Posted by seanph

I don’t understand why Airstream didn’t put access panels to (important )parts that need replacing

It appears that the valve has lasted 19 years, so it is not a part that often needs replacing. Cutting an access hole is a simple matter. For those who don't have a source of old street signs to cover the resultant hole, Online Metals offers all sizes, grades, and thicknesses of aluminum sheet (no commercial interest!).

Tim

[richard5933]

Here's my experience doing the work:

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...ml#post2618503

It's well worth buying the electric snips from Harbor Freight.

[GammaDog]

I replaced mine.

I wouldn’t use manual snips if you can avoid it. The metal is quite heavy gauge. Buy a cheap electric sheet metal shear from harbor freight or wherever. Drill small holes at each corner of a large enough area to access the complete valve. Don’t drill deep!

The plumbing on one side or the other of the valve must be removed. You can’t slide out that gate valve and slide a new one in.

To repair the hole, purchase an oversized panel from an online metal seller. I recall my 2014 was 26 ga galvanized… but my memory isn’t so good. Gauge yours. Buy enough “Master Flow 60 in. S-Cleat” from Hime Depot or an AC supplier to go around three sides of the hole. That will create a channel for the replacement panel to slide in. Use a short (1/2”) self tapping sheet metal screw or two on the side without the cleat to hold the panel in.

Originally Posted by seanph

Hi,
My wife and I are full timers in our 2005 30ft Classic, and we have run into an issue that requires a little community assistance. Our Airstream has a belly pan that covers the valves to both the black and grey tanks. Unfortunately, or black tank valve is stuck in the open position and will not close.
I have ordered the replacement valve (and 2 bend handle- which is silly expensive), and all that is required now is access to the valve.
I’ve read in another thread that they had to cut a hole in the bedpan using snips.
Does anyone have experience with this problem, and how did you fix it?
Any help is much appreciated
Sean

[earljones458]

I recently replaced my valves on my 1996 30’ Classic. While recently at JC I asked the same question about having an access panel to the valves. Apparently on the new models there is one but haven’t seen the configuration. I did replace both valves and piping. The issue I had was both backing plates that the valves attach to had literally disintegrated. Be sure to replace them also. My control rods were both fine.

[seanph]

Thank you!
Super helpful
To remove the valve-Did you need to remove the plumbing from valve, or were you able to shift the pipe over?

Originally Posted by GammaDog

I replaced mine.

I wouldn’t use manual snips if you can avoid it. The metal is quite heavy gauge. Buy a cheap electric sheet metal shear from harbor freight or wherever. Drill small holes at each corner of a large enough area to access the complete valve. Don’t drill deep!

The plumbing on one side or the other of the valve must be removed. You can’t slide out that gate valve and slide a new one in.

To repair the hole, purchase an oversized panel from an online metal seller. I recall my 2014 was 26 ga galvanized… but my memory isn’t so good. Gauge yours. Buy enough “Master Flow 60 in. S-Cleat” from Hime Depot or an AC supplier to go around three sides of the hole. That will create a channel for the replacement panel to slide in. Use a short (1/2”) self tapping sheet metal screw or two on the side without the cleat to hold the panel in.

[GammaDog]

On my 2014 25’FB (your valve and drain geometry may be different), I believe I had to loosen but not physically remove the plumbing from beyond the two gate valves (black which I was replacing and grey which I was not). I did not detach or reposition either tank.

The point is, the new black valve looked to me like it could be slipped in place after the old valve was slipped out. It couldn’t on my trailer. It was essential to create movement so the flanges on each side of the valve could be slightly separated.

I may have pictures in my archives. I intended to do a full post on this but never got around to it. If the text above doesn’t make sense, let me know and I’ll see if I have those pics.

Originally Posted by seanph

Thank you!
Super helpful
To remove the valve-Did you need to remove the plumbing from valve, or were you able to shift the pipe over?

[earljones458]

I used a cutting wheel to cut the belly pan and had some sheet metal to fashion a new cover plate and just drilled screw holes to attach the new panel. I did have to dissassemble the drain piping for removal. Easy. Have to unscrew each valve from the old backing plates. I had bought new piping and valves but the old piping was good. Saved for spares. Start by attaching the first valve and short section and work your way out. Mine was very difficult to fully assemble and then try to install.

[mike28]

Originally Posted by seanph

Hi,
My wife and I are full timers in our 2005 30ft Classic, and we have run into an issue that requires a little community assistance. Our Airstream has a belly pan that covers the valves to both the black and grey tanks. Unfortunately, or black tank valve is stuck in the open position and will not close.
I have ordered the replacement valve (and 2 bend handle- which is silly expensive), and all that is required now is access to the valve.
I’ve read in another thread that they had to cut a hole in the bedpan using snips.
Does anyone have experience with this problem, and how did you fix it?
Any help is much appreciated
Sean

I just went through the problem of replacing a valve. My black valve was leaking and I purchased a Valterra valve that goes on where cap screws on. Works great as a temporary fix. My valves are inside the belly and JC cut the hole and repaired them several years ago. I went to do it myself this time and found it nearly impossible for me to do it without the proper lifting jacks to elevate the trailer. Inclosed valves are neat, but difficult to repair.

[tjdonahoe]

We use dishwater in th black tank. It sure lubracates the valve