Black & Grey valve trouble

[COArgosy78]

Bob - we had to cut our bellyskin, the tiny square they provided to reach the plumbing was not nearly big enough), but others have posted about removing their bumpers and unriveting the bellypan. I think cutting might be faster, then you have to have new aluminum to cut and replace the old. We are trying to come up w/plan to easily get to PVC plumbing if need be in the future, which means either screws or some kind of latch on the new piece of aluminum covering rather than re-riveting.

[Crazyland]

Thanks for the feedback. Today I took the bumber off and drilled out the rivits and found that my access was good. As mentioned by others, you do have to cut the ABS pipe to reomove. Please help me with these questions:

1. How do I remove the ABS pipe that is glued to the exit end of the valve?

2. Why do some people use rubber adapters when they re-attach the pipe to the tanks?

3. Are there other valves I should look at beside the Thetford?

Good idea about the easy access door for future repairs. I only live about an hour from Inland so I am thinking of making the drive since I already feel I owe Andy for all the post. Ha ha

Bob

[nickcrowhurst]

Bob, I recently helped a friend do this job on a 1977 rear bath Sovereign. We used your method of removing the rear bumper and tray. In answer to your questions:
1. We fitted new pipe to the new valves, so removal was not required.
2. I made the mistake of levering the outlet pipe out from the black water tank. An easier way is to cut the pipe a few inches from the tank, and re-connect new pipe to this cut-off piece using a rubber connector. This is easier to make leak-proof than the joint to the tank.
3. No. Thetford valves are high quality standard fittings for Airstream trailers. They are expensive in comparison to the alternative, but this is not a job you want to do every few years. Inland Andy's experience is that Thetford valves should last 20 years.
Good luck. Nick.

[Hippo]

Originally Posted by Crazyland

How did you remove the belly skin without cutting it? Did you rivit it back on or do you use screws? Do I have to cut all the pipe off? I am actually working on it right now Sat. 7/31 4pm pacific time. I just came in to find out the easiest way to remove rivits when I read you post. This is my first project I am attempting on the 75 25' tradwind I just bought. I have some copper plumbing to replace next. If you have any other advice I would greatly appreciate it. Your post gave me some juice to get this going and take my first camping trip. Bob

Bob,
I drilled out all the rivets and removed the panels including the bumper. At home depot or a RV dealer you can get the plastic pipes that adapt to copper. I had to relocate the drain valve handle on the gray water valve. I used the handle extension from the orginial valve. Then drilled a new hole in the side frame. Yes I cut all the old pipes out. I used a rubber coupler for the black water tank to valve. Same thing on the gray water.
Hope this helps.
chuck

[Crazyland]

Chuck, Thanks for the feedback. Here's a photo of my valves. I cut btwn the two but as you can see there is very little room to couple back together. I am not sure how I would reconnect the pipes. Is there a way to disconnect the ABS from the valve? I would prefer to just seal the valves and not buy new. I guess I am just cheap!

On another note, I am in the middle of a copper pipe repair that the PO let freeze and swell. I have access to one end and I was able to cut back to original size. The other end heads into the lower shower wall and has expanded just enough that I can't get the compression fitting on. Does anyone think that using this type of hose for just a very small section <1" would work? Thanks for all the help.

[thenewkid64]

Originally Posted by Crazyland

Chuck, Here's a photo of my valves. I cut btwn the two but as you can see there is very little room to couple back together. I am not sure how I would reconnect the pipes. Is there a way to disconnect the ABS from the valve? I would prefer to just seal the valves and not buy new. I guess I am just cheap!

This is a perfect application for the rubber connector with the big steel screw clamps. Look in the drainage pipe section of the local HD or Lowe's. They will have many different sizes.

[COArgosy78]

Bob - your valves should unscrew (4 screws) and come off the PVC, then as stated above, go to HD or Lowes and purchase PVC you need. We were able to use 1 of our old valves w/some clean up and purchased 1. The rubber connectors w/clamp work great to reconnect everything.

[Crazyland]

Went up to Andy's Inland RV and picked up new valves and completed the job last week. The valve job was not near as difficult as I thought is was once I got acccess. I guess that's the common conclusion. I am now working on having to replumb part or the entire trailer because of the many split lines. Thx for all your comments. Bob

[Silver Bill]

Originally Posted by James Schmidt

Go for the do-it-yourself route. I rebuilt both my valves and it was not big deal. Parts are readily available and no special tools are required. Gaining access to the valves can be a challenge. I found it was best to cut a large access hole in the belley skin and put the trailer up on a ramp to get more clearence. Once that is done the rest is a snap.
Good luck and let us know if you need some advise.

What did you use to cut the access in the metal box that houses the valves?
I have been unable to find the proper saw to cut a 3 X 2 section out.
Thanks

[nickcrowhurst]

Silver Bill, I used "Aircraft" metal cutting snips in a pack of three from Wal-Mart for about $10, IIRC. They did the job, with more effort than I would have liked, but the edge was fairly ugly, although that's covered by an aluminium access plate. (Home Depot sells small sheets of aluminum). One has to take care with drilling holes to start the cut, or if considering a power saw, as the tanks are very close to the metal you are cutting. (Only about half an inch of polystyrene insulation separates the two surfaces) I found it awkward as I was in the middle of a field full of fire ants, and every minute laying on my back under the trailer was a minute too many.
Nick.

[raebaker06]

I have a 72 Argosy and had the toilet and the Black water valves changed By ME. a big and not so fun job.
After a number of years they too started to leak. I had an old toilet bottom and was looking at it and found how it works. I then with all the system cleaned out I put a pail under the outlet and poured about 3 quarts of water into the toilet and then put about 2 cups of pool acid (muriatic)
into the water and dumped it into the holding tank. I then repeated this into the toilet and let stand over night. The level in the toilet (which alwayd leaked was as when I filled it. and no water in the black water outlet.

NOTICE: always pour the acid into the water never water into the acid.

I do beleive that with the soil and mater going into the system it would be wise to do this every few years and NEVER LET YOUR TOILET OR HOLDING TANK STAY WITHOUT SOME WATER OR SUCH IN IT to keep the valves from drying out.
If you store put some mineral oil in the tank and toilet.
Also make sure you have eye protection and have the air vented for the fumes.

Rae Burlinto Ontario.

[Mrcrowley]

I have gutted the 1997 soveriegns full bath that I own all the cabinets and the fixture roof covering (Had to get to a burst pipe against the wall of AS). I also will be resurfacing the tub shower stall and sink with Tough as tile later. Now the floor is not that bad discolored but not soft (one 1 foot part is wet about 1/8 of a inch or less).
The pipe that burst was swollen and is swollen about a foot both ways of the hole so I need to replace the pipe I was wondering if I should replace the 8 foot span back to the pressure valve with pex and run water through and see if I have any more leaks or bursts (if not) leave as is OR should I replace it all with Pex even if there are no more leaks?