Black and gray water tank

[Judy Barde]

I have a 1960 trade wind with rear bath. I have never owned a trailer before. I took out the black water tank and it leaks. I am thinking a custom made one would be expensive. Can anyone tell me where I can buy a black water tank and the exact specks I need. Also haven't droped the belly on the other side yet but thought I could buy a gray water tank to fit under the other side. I have no clue as to what to order as in reading I am very confused. I also was thinking that the black water tank could be deeper than the one I have that would make it hold more. My stool is short and that would raise it up a bit. I would really appreciate any help or different ideas thanks Judy This is my set up and what I have

[markdoane]

Judy,

You will not be able to order a direct replacement, and anything you find in a salvage yard probably leaks also.

Those fiberglas tanks are very easy to repair. You probably want to cut a hole in the top to facilitate repairs. I have just repaired mine and added a tank flusher, inspection hole (??) and vent connection.

If you don't feel like doing it yourself, take it to a marina or boat repair place. Do you have any marinas in Kansas?

[HowieE]

Considering the custome shape of your tank I would consider repairing it. From the picture it looks like it is fiberglass in which case it would be an easy patch. If it is glass I would consider cutting it in half on the sides and glassing in some additional capicaty.

To patch glass you can get a kit at any auto supply. Just make sure the surface is clean and roughed up by sanding with 80 grit paper then just apply the patch over he leak. If you have gone this far you can do the rest patch or extension.

[scottanlily]

Judy ,your black tank is special in the shape .I agree to get it repaired .While its out you might want to upgrade the dump valve .I have the same brass
gatevalve you have . they can be purchased brand new from home Depot
or other quality plumbing store as its a common valve (not from airstream )
but from these sources as mentioned .They can leak and nows the right time to replace it .you can make the original shaft coupler attach to it .If you want to go to a newer style ,a new type fitting can be fiberglassed in place
of the brass valve .Now ,you don't want it hanging down under the trailer
low in any case ,Sugarfoots trdwnd (like yours same bath/commode ) just
had the black plumbing replaced after it got torn off do to low placement
and the road dip. problem ! I myself use the original valve and yes its antique
in its relation to the new valves, it does work fine and my ground clearance
is not compromised.Id also consider making the floor /box support for the toilet new so its structuraly sound and the black tank isn't itself supporting the weight .Lastely ,if you want a new tank ,it will need to be custom made to fit as the old one and you might check with Safari Tim as he I think had his remade ,Check the ambassador threads or PM him .

Scott of scottanlily

[Over59]

I wouldn't use the auto shop kit to repair your tank. Not saying it won't work, just don't know if the materials will bond. If you want to take on the job yourself you will need marine epoxy, hardner, and some fiberglass fabric. You might as well wrap it in a new layer if you are going to the trouble the stuff is inexpensive. I'll recommended the local boat or canoe guy, ask around town. Someone has to have a boat repair business.

[HowieE]

If you want to do a complete recovering of the tank you may want to get in touch with www.uscomposites.com for your material needs. I would consider 6oz. cloth as enough as an over skin if the tank does not have major cracking throughout. They will not only have all you need but I have found them willing to advise. If you want some insite with working with epoxy you can read up on it at http://oneoceankayaks.com/Wshophtm/shop10.htm
While he is working over wood the rules and precautions are the same.

The most important thing to keep in mind when working with epoxy is temperature so if you are working during the winter you will have to do it inside.

[Judy Barde]

I have been reaading reading reading and didn't realize I had answers to my posts. Thanks everyone. I found a friend to fiberglass for me. Will take my tank tomorrow to the RV shop that will do my final plumbing. I am trying to get together a plan and put back as much as I can with up dated parts. I need to know what to cut out and what new parts to put in. I ordered a 3" holding tank inlet fitting to replace the old one that will be cut out (the bottom of the tank. Do I have my fiberglass person cut out the top part also where the stool connects? and what part to I need to order so it can be fiberglassed in??? I will add photos of my project as soon as I figure out how to organize them I have lots of photos and some what of a plan thanks to the forums

[markdoane]

Judy,

It's hard to tell from your pictures, but I believe there should be a 3" male stub under all that material. If that's the case, you can leave it UNLESS it is really out of plumb, like mine was.

The top inlet fitting on my tank was so crooked that the plastic flange was cross threaded to make it somewhat level. Otherwise, the toilet would have listed to one side. The problem with cross threading is the closet flange starts to leak as soon as it's put into service. Then you have a rot problem.

If your threaded stub is straight you can leave it. The closet flange that screws onto it is available, but it may be a little taller (1 3/4") than the original, requiring a little more shimming under the pedestal.

[Judy Barde]

I will take a better photo tomorrow. but the top part has several layers of rounded off wood and there is no way to get it off all crusted up. that is why I thought it could be cut out and a new fitting put in???

[markdoane]

Judy,

Unless you want to sacrifice the plywood cover, you're going to need to figure out how to get the rounded off wood off the inlet fitting. Then you can lift the plywood off.

I don't understand why the rounded off wood is there, unless the PO used a whole can of Durhams Water Putty to try to stop a leak at the base of the toilet.

I would try removing it before you start cutting more parts out of the tank.

You're sure it's wood, and not just an old wax ring?

[GlenCoombe]

Don't use fiberglass resin in wet condition areas! Epoxy is a much better idea. Search West Systems Epoxy for more info than you can digest in one sitting.
Expanding the existing capacity is as posted earlier a relatively straight forward job. Just expand the side walls of the tank. Raise the top of the tank the number of inches to make the stool the height you desire and increase your holding capacity.
Just remember polyester resin and water really don't get along well unless gel coated very well.

[Judy Barde]

Thanks everyone Talked to the RV people today and I am going with a new tank not the same shape but it will be big enough for my needs. If anyone is really restoring I have this tank. I did fill it up and let it stand for a day and there was a small drip from the bottom. a few table spoons full in about 12 hours. Thanks again