Best sanitizing solution

[Bnystrom]

Originally Posted by JBTeton

Interesting chemistry mix. The baking soda and citric acid will cancel each other out and form sodium citrate, CO2, and water. This should make for basically a fizzy mix. The Borax is probably doing most of the cleaning and deodorizing in this mixture. Borax is a strong disinfectant and will likely reduce the "good" bacteria in the tank.

Yes, it does foam somewhat when added to water, which as you said is expected when you combine an acid and a base. I can't find any reference to borax being a disinfectant - though it is marketed as a deodorizer - and this combination is supposed to support the good bacteria in the tank, not kill it. Rather than combining the ingredients into "bombs", I prefer to keep them separate and mix them when I add them.

Regardless, it does seem to work at touted and we don't have any odor issues.

[billrector]

Originally Posted by waninae39

after we use this solution
we place a bag of ice in the black tank

this scrubs the tank clean also

There are YouTube videos that debunk this procedure.

[nelsonh]

Originally Posted by SpikePoet

Is this any better/different than simply treating your black and gray tanks with Happy Camper and water after each tank dump?
Spike

I would say different and not necessarily better. This mixture is mainly a deodorizer and tank surface slippery-ifier; Happier Camper is engineered it actually break down solid waste within the tanks. Two different products with two different intended purposes...and I tend to use both, FWIW. But I'm still quite new at this and don't have much personal real world long term evidence that either or both are doing what they claim to do....

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by nelsonh

I would say different and not necessarily better. This mixture is mainly a deodorizer and tank surface slippery-ifier; Happier Camper is engineered it actually break down solid waste within the tanks. Two different products with two different intended purposes...and I tend to use both, FWIW. But I'm still quite new at this and don't have much personal real world long term evidence that either or both are doing what they claim to do....

TankTechsRX is another enzymatic solution. I have been using it for years now and have had no odor since I started unless I went too long without using the trailer and the tank dried out. If so, the odor went away immediately after adding some water and another dose of TankTechsRX. I have, on occasion, used it in the gray tank as well.



Al

[Bnystrom]

Originally Posted by billrector

There are YouTube videos that debunk this procedure.

Jame at thefitrv.com did a really thorough test of this and the bottom line is that it's a waste of time and ice.

[JBTeton]

Originally Posted by Bnystrom

Yes, it does foam somewhat when added to water, which as you said is expected when you combine an acid and a base. I can't find any reference to borax being a disinfectant - though it is marketed as a deodorizer - and this combination is supposed to support the good bacteria in the tank, not kill it. Rather than combining the ingredients into "bombs", I prefer to keep them separate and mix them when I add them.

Regardless, it does seem to work at touted and we don't have any odor issues.

"Borax, or otherwise known as sodium borate, is a natural mineral mined from the Earth that is most commonly found as a white powder. It’s most notably characterized as being a good emulsifier, preservative, and buffering agent (2). It’s also known for being a great disinfectant, getting rid of stains, whitening clothes, and neutralizing hard water (2, 3). Because of these properties Borax is often found in common household products like laundry detergents, soaps, and degreasers. It’s also found in topical medicine, food preservatives, pesticides, and other industrial uses because Borax can inhibit the growth of bacteria and mold, increase resistance to heat and chemicals, kill insects, and helps balance acidity (4)."

https://ceh.org/yourhealth/how-safe-...d%20degreasers.

Pretty much every google search on "borax disinfectant" confirms its anti-microbial properties. That said, and given the amount of bacteria in the tanks, a little borax probably won't hurt too bad.

[DaveG]

"Borax can inhibit the growth of bacteria and mold"
"Bacteria and enzymes are a very good thing in your RV holding tanks because they reduce the size of waste so it flows out better during dumps and remains under the water while being stored in the holding tanks, thus getting rid of holding tank odors."
?

[Bnystrom]

JBTenon, thanks for pointing this out. Somehow I missed it, though as you said, it may not do any harm. The treatment method definitely works, so that seems to be the case.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Bnystrom

You don't want to use bleach in black and gray tanks, as you don't want to kill the beneficial bacteria that break down the contents.

What bennificial bacteria you talking about?? Really...think about it; you empty your tank, and flush thru black water port, right? (least many of us do.) Then you add which ever "additive" you are using...not bacteria based. If it was, the smell would surely require emptying more than once a week or so when in use!

I stay in a 5th wheel all summer here in WY where it gets 80-90 each day. Have to dump every 5 days or so, the black tank. (My Airstream is kept in storage, but we do service our tanks prior with cleanout.) Anyway, just talked to a guy here, who has been doing the "clean tank" cleanout business for many years, who also lives in Houston in winter. He is coming to clean out our black/gray tanks on this 5th wheel, and also our black/gray tanks on the AS which give "erroneous" readings after 7 years of using. Anyway, he said he fixes the readings on 95% of the customers with his method, which includes high pressure hose/tank washing.

For the servicing, he said: 40oz Pine-Sol with 8oz Calgon Ageless Bath Pearls in gallon jug. Top off with enough water to fill. Shake gently, and allow foam to die down. Then apply 4-8 oz in each tank to maintain clean tank. The Calgon keeps the "sludge" from collecting on the sides and valves; "commercial" tank remidies, do not...they treat the waste, but do not coat the sides like the Calgon type water softeners do. I have talked with several folks who have been using this method and they say it works! (at the pickelball court here in WY, where we all play over the summer, and they swore by this guy!)

[Billrdean]

I have another black/grey question. When hooked up to a campsite waste hookup, do you leave the airstream tank open to the hookup? or let the tank collect waste then empty once a day or...?
Thanks

[Bearstream01]

Hi Bill. Welcome to the forum. I answered you in a private message.

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by Billrdean

I have another black/grey question. When hooked up to a campsite waste hookup, do you leave the airstream tank open to the hookup? or let the tank collect waste then empty once a day or...?
Thanks

Black tank should always be closed until you dump. You would be best to wait until the black tank is half full or more before dumping to get a good flow out the discharge opening.

Gray tank could be left open, but we never do. Leaving the valve open allows flies/gnats to enter the tank and doesn't leave you with enough gray water to flush out the sewer hose after you dump the black tank.

We operate the tanks like we're always dry camping, only opening the valves when we dump. We connect the hose right away for convenience but leave the valves closed on the trailer.

The gray tank fills first. When it fills we do the following:

• Dump the black tank, then close the black tank valve. (If you were going to use your black tank flush you'd do it before closing the valve - we don't have a working flush anymore so we skip this).
• Dump the gray tank, which flushes out the sewer hose, then close the gray tank valve again.
• Wait until the
  gray tank needs to be dumped, and then repeat the process.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Billrdean

I have another black/grey question. When hooked up to a campsite waste hookup, do you leave the airstream tank open to the hookup? or let the tank collect waste then empty once a day or...?
Thanks

Never leave your black tank valve open. Instructions in your AS manual, on this, by the way. We dump when it gets "full". Gray tank will fill before black, so you may have to dump gray 2-3 times before your gray fills. But, procedure is dump the black first, also using a hose connected to the black cleanout connection which helps flush out as your dumping. We use a clear elbow on the hose so we can monitor the black water, and I look for clear water coming out from the hose. Then shut off the hose, and close the valve; then I open the gray valve to help flush hose as its draining. When all finished dumping, I close the gray valve and rinse everything. Easy, peasy. Don't forget to add which ever chemical you like to the black tank...we forgot in Florida one year...was embarrassing when we finally reached our destination at a friends house, and he wanted to see our AS...wow! forgot to add the solution!

[Billrdean]

Thanks for the help/advice/response. New to airstreaming, loving it while learning and figuring out. Now onto shopping for Calgon Beads.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Billrdean

Thanks for the help/advice/response. New to airstreaming, loving it while learning and figuring out. Now onto shopping for Calgon Beads.

Yea, that can be challenging depending on where you are! Pinsole not so much of a challange, but Calgon seems to be. He recommended Walmart, but that's 80 miles away and local grocery stores here not carrying that, so I ordered 3 pack of Calgon on Amazon. Wife made up the big bottle using the recipe and then transferred to smaller bottle for travel.

[nelsonh]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

But, procedure is dump the black first, also using a hose connected to the black cleanout connection which helps flush out as your dumping. We use a clear elbow on the hose so we can monitor the black water, and I look for clear water coming out from the hose. Then shut off the hose, and close the valve; then I open the gray valve to help flush hose as its draining. When all finished dumping, I close the gray valve and rinse everything. Easy, peasy. Don't forget to add which ever chemical you like to the black tank...we forgot in Florida one year...was embarrassing when we finally reached our destination at a friends house, and he wanted to see our AS...wow! forgot to add the solution!

A tip I picked up on YouTube that I've adopted is to get the dump hose all hooked up and then open the gray tank briefly first to check for any leaks... the idea being it's less gross to deal with any leak in the hose or fittings when it's gray water leaking out vs black tank water.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by nelsonh

A tip I picked up on YouTube that I've adopted is to get the dump hose all hooked up and then open the gray tank briefly first to check for any leaks... the idea being it's less gross to deal with any leak in the hose or fittings when it's gray water leaking out vs black tank water.

Never had an issue with the sewer hose leaking....not saying it can't happen...but if you take care of your hose, and clean it out by running water thru it after each use before stuffing back in the holder behind the dump station valves, think you will be fine.

[nelsonh]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Never had an issue with the sewer hose leaking....not saying it can't happen...but if you take care of your hose, and clean it out by running water thru it after each use before stuffing back in the holder behind the dump station valves, think you will be fine.

I did once have a hose that was punctured and I didn't know it which leaked some black water. But yeah, in my case it's more like "didn't get all of the twist-fitting-connections properly twisted on" that results in a leak, more than the actual hose itself... although I'm getting better this as time goes on!