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08-15-2016, 07:30 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master
1964 17' Bambi II
1961 24' Tradewind
Strasburg
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 936
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Aluminum grey water tank?
Background: I am looking to add a grey water tank (under floor/between frame rails) to a 1964 Bambi II with frame rails only 3.5" deep (All Bambi frames were made of lighter/smaller steel rails).
VTS offers a grey water tank that "could" work...but it will be a bit too deep necessitating the fabrication of a drop pan to cover the tank. No real big deal, but...
I have access to a metal shop that could likely fabricate an aluminum tank custom fit to the frame cavity that would fit inside the original belly pan. I was thinking that having aluminum pipe welded on in all the right places for vent, inlet, and outlet, those could be connected to PVC plumbing with rubber connectors.
Is aluminum an acceptable material for gray water tanks? I can't see why it wouldn't be, but one never knows. BTW, the original fiberglass black water tank will be put to use.
__________________
"The difference between vintage and retro is that vintage is honestly old and cool. Retro tries to be but isn't."
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08-16-2016, 07:40 AM
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#2
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4 Rivet Member
2021 16' Bambi
2021 22' Bambi
Currently Looking...
North Port
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 331
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Aluminum would be fine, but cost would be a deciding factor for me. Have you looked into a custom size plastic tank?
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08-16-2016, 08:20 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1964 17' Bambi II
1961 24' Tradewind
Strasburg
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffcharb
Aluminum would be fine, but cost would be a deciding factor for me. Have you looked into a custom size plastic tank?
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Cost will likely be free or close to it, and free student labor. They have to learn how to tig weld somehow. Live projects are good for the students and give them a fine sense of accomplishment.
Thanks for the words...much appreciated!
__________________
"The difference between vintage and retro is that vintage is honestly old and cool. Retro tries to be but isn't."
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08-16-2016, 09:17 AM
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#4
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Moderator
Vintage Kin Owner
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,696
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Aluminum should work fine in a gray tank application. Given a choice I personally would lean towards a 3003 or 5052 series material, these alloys are easily formed, welded and have good corrosion protection characteristics.
Make sure you snoop, or soap bubble test the completed tank (using a very low pressure) to check for leaks prior to installation.
__________________
"One of the best lessons I've learned is that you don't worry about criticism from people you wouldn't seek advice from."
William C. Swinney
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08-16-2016, 09:19 AM
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#5
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.-. -...
2017 25' International
Niagara-on-the-Lake
, ON Canada
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1,838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA BAMBI II
Is aluminum an acceptable material for gray water tanks? I can't see why it wouldn't be, but one never knows. BTW, the original fiberglass black water tank will be put to use.
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My cruising sailboat had an aluminum black water tank (grey water goes overboard on a sailboat) that lasted over thirty years. eventually a small pin hole developed from rubbing against a some debris underneath it. I was easily patched. Aluminum would be much lighter and would work really well.
__________________
Ray B.
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08-16-2016, 03:01 PM
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#6
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4 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
Middletown
, California
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 424
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You could line the tank with rubber "sloshing compound" and guarantee no leaks or corrosion. I used stainless when I made the waste tanks for my trailer. When I leak tested them I used the absolute lowest pressure my regulator would let air through at, about 1/2 psi. The tanks blew up like balloons and stayed that way costing me 2" of ground clearance which blew my carefully measured plans! If you leak test with air you might want to use a vacuum cleaner on blow or some other very low pressure air source. Even a vacuum on blow might stretch the tank a bit so be careful! A store bought plastic tank that hangs down below the frame might be a good thing for plumbing the drain and valve?
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08-16-2016, 03:31 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland
, New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA BAMBI II
Cost will likely be free or close to it, and free student labor. They have to learn how to tig weld somehow. Live projects are good for the students and give them a fine sense of accomplishment.
Thanks for the words...much appreciated!
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Jealous, oh so jealous! Aluminum is fairly cheap right now too, there's a glut of the stuff.
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08-16-2016, 06:48 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1964 17' Bambi II
1961 24' Tradewind
Strasburg
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin245
Aluminum should work fine in a gray tank application. Given a choice I personally would lean towards a 3003 or 5052 series material, these alloys are easily formed, welded and have good corrosion protection characteristics.
Make sure you snoop, or soap bubble test the completed tank (using a very low pressure) to check for leaks prior to installation.
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Thank you. Please tell me more about the soap/leak test.
I will have this made at the technical high school where I work...and the welding teacher is amazing and has been doing it a long time. I know he has made tanks before as I have seen them over the years.
How can I help direct them with the leak test? And how do you seal up the inlet/outlet/vent tube for the leak test?
Thanks again!! Ben
__________________
"The difference between vintage and retro is that vintage is honestly old and cool. Retro tries to be but isn't."
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08-17-2016, 01:42 PM
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#9
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Moderator
Vintage Kin Owner
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, ...
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA BAMBI II
Thank you. Please tell me more about the soap/leak test.
I will have this made at the technical high school where I work...and the welding teacher is amazing and has been doing it a long time. I know he has made tanks before as I have seen them over the years.
How can I help direct them with the leak test? And how do you seal up the inlet/outlet/vent tube for the leak test?
Thanks again!! Ben
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Leak testing a tank in this instance involves pressurization of the component, in this case, compressed air, then applying a soapy solution on the weld seams. The key is to have enough pressure applied to force air through pinholes or other discontinuities in the weld and adjacent areas. The soapy water or Snoop is then sprayed on the test areas while the component is pressurized while you watch for bubbles to repeatedly form.
Cylindrical tanks with dished or hemispherical heads typically withstand higher pressures than box style tanks. Given that your tank will likely be rectangular in shape you will be limited to a very low pressure application, likely in the 0.5 to 2 psi range depending on material properties and tank configuration. This is usually more than enough of a pressure differential to create an effective test environment without causing the tank to bloat on you, but design parameters will dictate how much pressure can be introduced. Just remember that you are compressing air so keep the pressure low as there is a tremendous amount of stored energy when gases get compressed. Even at low pressures things can fail catastrophically.
There is a poorly recorded video on YouTube that shows the basic concept of leak testing though I would take his approach with a grain of salt. I would add a reliable pressure gauge and a pressure relief device into his approach, also I would apply the soapy water with spray bottle.
__________________
"One of the best lessons I've learned is that you don't worry about criticism from people you wouldn't seek advice from."
William C. Swinney
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