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Old 03-08-2017, 07:00 AM   #1
Rivet Master
 
1955 22' Safari
Laredo , Texas
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Adding gray tank to 67 Overlander

Not interested in thin VTS tanks that sit inside belly pan. I plan to install a deeper tank just behind the axle. Does anyone know the fame rail spacing (longitudinal and transverse)?
Also, is there a furnace duct in that area that will be in the way?
I do not have access to the trailer and need to order the tank...
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Old 03-08-2017, 07:29 AM   #2
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1967 26' Overlander
Bugtussle , Oklahoma
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I will be installing a grey tank in my '67 Overlander soon, so I am interested in how you proceed. The furnace duct and all systems except propane lines sit on top of the subfloor. Sorry I can't help with frame spacing right now. Hopefully someone else will chime in.
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Old 03-08-2017, 08:33 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BambiTex View Post
Not interested in thin VTS tanks.
VTS sells but does not make tanks. Just replaced my black water tank with a tank I got from VTS. It was made be Inca was is substantial. VTS could have a custom tank made to your specs.
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Old 03-08-2017, 10:51 AM   #4
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
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Don't know if you've located your tank yet, but Regal Plastics in San Antonio fabricates tanks. I had them weld some fittings on a VTS tank and having them price a fresh water tank for me. They have a location on Wirt Road in Houston. Good luck.
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Old 03-09-2017, 11:31 AM   #5
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1955 22' Safari
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Help

So nobody knows what size tank will fit between the frame rails??
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Old 03-09-2017, 12:28 PM   #6
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1967 26' Overlander
Bugtussle , Oklahoma
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Here it is:

It will be a couple of weeks before I visit my AS again. Here are the dimensions VTS has listed on their website for the grey tank recommended for the 60's trailers.

Actual dimensions are: 50-3/8" x 21-1/8" x 3-7/8".
16gal
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Old 03-09-2017, 12:59 PM   #7
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1955 22' Safari
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Thanks

I put one of those tanks in my 55 Flying Cloud and it BARELY fit but I think the 60's trailers have a larger frame spacing.
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Old 03-09-2017, 10:06 PM   #8
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I have an ad on grey tank on my 71 I will measure it in the morning.
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Old 03-10-2017, 05:50 AM   #9
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1978 25' Tradewind
1954 15' Byam Holiday
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Tank?

On my 54 Safari I use a GRAY "Blue Boy." I had both Fresh and Combo Black/Gray Tanks that hung below the belly pan, and I hated the look. Every time I looked at the trailer, my eyes were drawn to the out of place tanks. Just an opinion about my trailer, that was corrected.
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Old 03-10-2017, 08:23 PM   #10
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Ok I measured mine 46" wide 23" Front to back (hung under t he floor pan, between cross framing) 7-1/2"deep
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Old 04-12-2017, 10:30 AM   #11
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1960 24' Tradewind
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I also am adding a grey tank to my trailer. 1960 Tradewind. Rather than repair frame during full monte, I decided on a new frame. I saved the main frame rail dimension of 54" ID . Most of my cross rails are at 24" with the exception of the one for the grey tank at 28" to accommodate the INCA H151 tank with 1" foam board insulation on all sides. New frame spacing made it all posible.
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Old 05-04-2017, 07:51 AM   #12
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1968 20' Globetrotter
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This might be too late for you but it might help others. The belly pan on my 1968 Globetrotter is riveted to the frame. If you can find the 2 rows of rivets that go across the width, you can measure that for a rough idea.
We put in a VTS grey tank in the space behind the wheel. Metal fabricator made 3 steel bars that we attached between the 2 cross beams. We put 1/4 plywood over that, then the bubble insulation. The tank is tight fit. It did not fit under the lip of the back cross beams. Syrofoam insulation keeps the rest in place. It works for us.
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Old 05-04-2017, 08:41 AM   #13
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1955 22' Safari
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Thanks for all the feedback.
This project was postponed in favor of more urgent ones so I have not done it yet.
Will get under the trailer soon and measure frame rails. Hoping LP line interference is minimal.
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Old 06-06-2017, 09:13 AM   #14
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Back to this project

It looks like the biggest tank I can fit without relocating anything (LP line..) is 23" (front to back) by 49" (side to side). If I make it 9 inches deep with a sloping bottom, it will hold about 42 gallons. An inch less depth makes it about 36 gallons. I think the fresh water tank hold 30 gallons...
Do most people use 1.5", 2" or 3" fitting for the drain? Smaller sizes are common for gray water and should work fine but it I make it 3" I could use my existing sewer hose.
Vent and drain connections should be pretty simple but fill might be more complicated. I need to see where the shower drain line goes (above or below floor?) and tie into it somewhere.
Any advice?
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Old 06-06-2017, 06:59 PM   #15
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Thanks for the update.
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Old 06-12-2017, 07:32 AM   #16
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1955 22' Safari
Laredo , Texas
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Progress/Question

Belly pan (and nasty treats inside) removed and frame treated with POR.
Before having the tank fabricated I need to locate all the fittings.
Drain is easy, but also need vent and fill.
Questions:
1. Currently, sink and shower drain lines join under the bed in a 1.5" line, which is also vented. Since this will be connected to tank fill, is this sufficient, or does the tank need a separate vent?
2. Sinks drain into a pipe about 8" above the floor. Tub bottom/shower drain is about 5" above floor. Sink drain pipe would be easy to cut and tie into tank fill but would not allow tub/shower to drain. Will tie into elbow at floor level but need to cross furnace vent. If I run drain pipe over vent, it will be 4" above floor. Not sure if this will be adequate to drain shower...
Alternative would be to cut vent and re-route over or around drain pipe.
Advice?
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Old 06-26-2017, 01:37 PM   #17
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1955 22' Safari
Laredo , Texas
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Progress

Vent line and combined drain line (both sinks and tub) have been run to new tank location so that tank can be fabricated with fittings pre-installed.
For now, I am not going to reconnect furnace duct to bathroom but have a way to do it someday if I choose.
Once new tank is installed and leak tested, the question is how do I handle the existing connection to the rear sewer hose fitting. Currently, all gray water piping is tied in downstream of black tank valve but upstream of hose connection. There is very little access to this connecting pipe.
Should I:
1. Try to cut gray water pipe and cap both ends so that tank is fully isolated from existing black water drain. New tank will have its own drain valve in any case. Not sure this is possible...
2. Plan on installing a temporary cap over existing drain line that will force gray water into new tank (since black tank valve will remain closed). Has anyone tried this?
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