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airstream4 · 03-27-2008, 03:32 PM

I removed the waste tank to replace the floor and want to rebuild the existing brass waste valve. Every thing and everyone indicated no parts available! I went to the Mcmaster- Carr cataog online and ordered
o-rings Part # 9396K924 Silicone pack of 5 @ $7.24
packing Part # 9552K1 Aramid packing 5'long 1/8" square(comes on roll size of teflon tape)$11.30

Above are from the invoice. Input these numbers at Mcmaster-Carr and it should take you to the catalog page.
They appear to fit very well and hopefully will last.

pictures of valve and new parts

Sugarfoot · 03-27-2008, 06:13 PM

Paul, thanks for a source for those O-rings. It does look like a perfect fit.

Overlander & Sea · 03-27-2008, 06:24 PM

Paul,

Thanks for the information. I also rebuilt our original bass dump valve about a year ago. I used the photos from forums member wagsrp as a guide and purchased the o-rings locally at a hydraulics store. I also had to straighten and grind the bass slide so it would seal. Hopefully it will last another 46 years.

safari62 · 03-27-2008, 07:47 PM

Hi Paul,
Looks good. I did the same thing to my 62' valve four years ago. Still works well although I worry about everytime I pull the slide rod.

As one added preventive maintenance measure, I added a high temperature disc brake lube all around the brass slide and to protect the O-rings. this was a Wurth brand product that is made to lube dics brakes.

I also went to a seal supplier and matched up best I could the sizes and picked up extras and some other sizes also. i have the parts numbers somewhere?
thanks for the info.

hugheym · 03-27-2008, 09:47 PM

Rick,
Can you describe your dump valve. On my 61' the flange is built into the bottom of my black tank, "O" fits into that part followed with a SS slide with a hole in it. Following that a 3" brass cap with threads for a street connection, according to a plumber.
Martin in KS

Pariscope · 03-31-2008, 11:25 AM

Airstream4 has my exact Dump valve and I am going to follow that order up.
Thank you so much fella, you saved me a bunch of doe and time searching.
Rick, my black tank has the flange glued to it as well but I dont plan on touching it. I am going to replace the "O" ring, white silicone the surface area's and reassemble.

uwe · 05-25-2008, 01:03 PM

I odered the parts below, and installed them in my brass dump valve. The slide would not move, no matter how much force. The O-ring is too fat for my application. I applied lube to all moving arts, and cleaned all grooves and recesses as good as possible. I flat sanded the brass slider, making sure the contact area for the O-ring is nice and clean.
The packing material would work if inserted carefully, but I had no luck with the O-ring listed in post #1. The previous owner supplied a thinner O-ring with the trailer, well packed in an envelope. This o-ring made it possible for the slide to move, although only with great effort.
Nevertheless, it still drips after several late night hours of trying to save it.

I decided to fabricate an adaptor plate that will allow the use of modern style 3-in abs sanitation valves. Enough is enough...
I do not mean to discourage others from trying to rebuild theirs. It is entirely possible that valves from different manufacturers were being used in 1963. Yours might accept the parts listed in post #1.

Overlander & Sea · 05-26-2008, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uwe

I decided to fabricate an adaptor plate that will allow the use of modern style 3-in abs sanitation valves. Enough is enough...

uwe,

Is this the general method that you're going to use?:

Restoration resources-Thetford Dump Valve

If my dump valve fails again, I think I'll go to the modern valves.

Pariscope · 05-26-2008, 10:08 AM

I had a problem too and then after I worked with the slide location and retightened the plate it slid just like it should. Not stiff or difficult. The first time I assembled it the slide was stuck under the packing or miss aligned in some way. After trying over to set up it worked just fine.
Suggestion friend, make sure plate is rightside up? If it worked with a thinner gasket it should work with the thicker one. The thinner one leaked right?
Tighten screws slowly moving the slide after each turn on the screws and find the problem that way.
There has to be something that you are doing different than the original.

hugheym · 05-26-2008, 11:44 AM

Thanks to all of you for posting the pictures. Looks like A/S used several different dump valve configurations. I managed to devise a replacement. Still working to ge my 61 back together. New Axle being installed this week. Some subflooring cut to fit.

uwe · 05-26-2008, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Overlander & Sea

uwe,

Is this the general method that you're going to use?:

Restoration resources-Thetford Dump Valve

If my dump valve fails again, I think I'll go to the modern valves.

That is precisely what I had in mind. Thanks for finding this, saves me some trouble figuring out details.

uwe · 05-26-2008, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paris

I had a problem too and then after I worked with the slide location and retightened the plate it slid just like it should. Not stiff or difficult. The first time I assembled it the slide was stuck under the packing or miss aligned in some way. After trying over to set up it worked just fine.
Suggestion friend, make sure plate is rightside up? If it worked with a thinner gasket it should work with the thicker one. The thinner one leaked right?
Tighten screws slowly moving the slide after each turn on the screws and find the problem that way.
There has to be something that you are doing different than the original.

Both the O-ring and the packing are substantially thicker than what came out.
I tried several approaches, with no avail. The slider can't be installed but with the tabs down.
Without the packing and screws, with just the Oring and the slider closed, the gap was almost 3/16 of an inch. Tightening teh screws just jammed everything together to where there was no movement possible whatsoever.

I suspect that perhaps my valve is dimensioned differently. It has no Thetford insignia on it. However, it does look very much like yours.
I switched gears since then, I will update to a modern dump valve, and also add a grey water tank while doing so.

63air · 06-02-2008, 09:54 PM

I rebuilt the Thetford valve on my 63 and for the big O ring used one with the part # 568340N70 (don't have a brand) that a local industrial supply matched to my old one ; it was an exact match. To install it use contact cement to hold it in place and lube it with Vasoline . This O ring cost $7.00 but it is a high quality US made part and not an imported knock off ;it is not made of rubber and Vasoline will not harm it. The small O ring in the handle is 3/8 IDx19/32 OD x 7/64 wall which you can get at any good hardware store.

The other gasket I could not get so I used plumbers putty and so far it has all worked very well.

Pariscope · 06-02-2008, 10:35 PM

Looks like we can move on now...
To all of us who have walked the walk, bravery indeed.
Wash your hands and clean your finger nails and move on.
I am...

uwe · 06-02-2008, 10:38 PM

I must have a different brand from yours. I looked at it and measured again today, but can't see how the parts from Mcmaster-Carr could possibly work on my valve. Just too bulky.

Frank's Trailer Works · 06-03-2008, 03:28 AM

Uwe, Have you fabricated the transition plate? Colin Hyde told me he is working on producing these plates to convert from the old Thetford to the new Valtura style. Vintage Trailer Supply will be carrying them soon. This is good news for many out there. It is not good news for me though, for my valve is leaking now. This past weekend after I dumped, the valve just would not close all the way. I am going to have to tackle this one soon, for using a blue boy as a black boy is not a nice proposition. I installed a grey tank so I would not need a blueboy and now I am dependent on it again.

uwe · 06-03-2008, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 62overlander

Uwe, Have you fabricated the transition plate?

Yes, I have. It accepts a Valterra 3in valve, or a Valterra slip fitting for a 3in ABS street elbow. I am waiting for a grey tank for the Globetrotter. Once the grey tank is in, I can route the plumbing as I need it.

My tank flange has a groove for an O-ring, which will make sealing the adaptor plate against the tank flange very easy.

utee94 · 06-03-2008, 07:34 AM

Hey Uwe,

Since your GT does not need a full monte shell-off, I'm interested in how you're installing the new tank with everything in place. Are you updating this to your new 63 thread or maybe to your blog? I'd love to see your steps in doing this.

Thanks!
-Marcus

uwe · 06-03-2008, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by utee94

Hey Uwe,

Since your GT does not need a full monte shell-off, I'm interested in how you're installing the new tank with everything in place. Are you updating this to your new 63 thread or maybe to your blog? I'd love to see your steps in doing this.

Thanks!
-Marcus

It will be documented in new 63 thread, and the blog as well.

airstream4 · 06-04-2008, 07:31 AM

I switched to the Colin Hyde adapter plate after testing the brass valve rebuild 6-7 times without success! I either had bolts to tight to operate slide, or to loose and it leaked! The outer gasket was too thick but was trimmed down to what I thought was a good fit.
I never want to change this valve once the tank is installed! Since tank is out, now is the time to change! Making adapter plate was easy, after buying a 3 inch hole saw.
I am also changing the black tank to one from a 63 overlander, with the tank going more to the side of the trailer ,instead of across the rear. This means more elbow room and partial elimanation of the wall cabinet. I will be rebuilding all the cabinets and the size differance is no problem.
The brass valves out of the 63 Safari and 63 overlander thou similiar , had differant connections for the grey water drains.