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Old 04-20-2007, 10:17 PM   #1
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'60's Thetford valve questions again

The time has come when I will have to deal with the original Thetford dump valve leaking on my 63 GT. I know there are a number of approaches to this problem and I am inclined to try rebuilding it. At one time I came across some excellent pictures of this procedure on the forum but I have been unable to find them again after trying everthing I can think of to search. Anybody know what they are listed under?

I have an access panel in the belly that looks like it will let me get to the valve but I doubt I can get the whole tank out. Anyone done the valve on a 63 GT and replaced the brass valve with a modern valve? I'd like to know how you did it.

Finally if I go the update route should it be Valterra or Thetford that I use as a replacement valve?
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Old 04-20-2007, 10:40 PM   #2
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Does it look like this?
Neil.
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Old 04-20-2007, 10:42 PM   #3
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Not like that mine is older.
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Old 04-20-2007, 10:46 PM   #4
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This might be a better view.
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Old 04-20-2007, 10:49 PM   #5
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Oh, I thought I would have helped. However,a PO had accessed my valve in the past by cutting an access hole from the bottom.
Neil
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Old 05-01-2007, 10:18 PM   #6
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Anholman, my valve assembly looks just like yours. I am in need of the part attached to the valve, my Thetford vale works just fine. Somewhere during it's life I think the end of my assembly has been cut. I can not get a sewer hose to fit tight enough after it's been twised on, big time leak. Any idea where I can get a new or used assembly. Nothing I have found so far has the slight bend to it like yours/mine. All I can find is straight or 45 degree angle parts.

Thanks _ Derek
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Old 05-02-2007, 02:07 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnrtheil
Anholman, my valve assembly looks just like yours. I am in need of the part attached to the valve, my Thetford vale works just fine. Somewhere during it's life I think the end of my assembly has been cut. I can not get a sewer hose to fit tight enough after it's been twised on, big time leak. Any idea where I can get a new or used assembly. Nothing I have found so far has the slight bend to it like yours/mine. All I can find is straight or 45 degree angle parts.

Thanks _ Derek
When I ordered my new tank and valve from Andy at Inland RV he asked if my collector pipe was ok. It is so that wasn't an issue for me but he may have what you want. The part that locks the hose is glued to mine so you may have to buy the whole connector. Call Andy. He or any one in the office will help. They were very helpfull to me. Another source for a used assembly may be RV Doctor George, a RV salvage yard in Sacramento, Ca. I don't have their web site address but if you Google it it will come right up front.

Neil.
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Old 05-02-2007, 08:02 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 63air
The time has come when I will have to deal with the original Thetford dump valve leaking on my 63 GT. I know there are a number of approaches to this problem and I am inclined to try rebuilding it. At one time I came across some excellent pictures of this procedure on the forum but I have been unable to find them again after trying everthing I can think of to search. Anybody know what they are listed under?

I have an access panel in the belly that looks like it will let me get to the valve but I doubt I can get the whole tank out. Anyone done the valve on a 63 GT and replaced the brass valve with a modern valve? I'd like to know how you did it.

Finally if I go the update route should it be Valterra or Thetford that I use as a replacement valve?
Sorry I didn't catch this thread the first time it went around, I must have been taking a power nap...
You should have the large brass looking valve, which is very rebuildable, but it uses a no longer available connector to hook your slinky up. If you have the connector, you are in business, if not, you would be much better off replacing the valve with a new one.
I used a Valterra 2" valve (that's what size the hole is in the black tank), and a PVC double Tee for the grey water to hook into. Then I used a 90* elbow, and a 2"-3" adapter so I could put a standard 3" diameter slinky on it. On a later modification I ran the water from the kitchen sink to the black tank.
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Old 05-03-2007, 08:38 PM   #9
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Fixed or ???

Well the gate valve fully closes now.

1) Muriatic Acid
2) Propane Torch
3) Cheap screwdriver
4) Pressure Washer

I dumped water and muriatic acid down the sink drain with the black tank dump valve closed as far as I could get it. Let that sit for 2 days. Torched the head of a cheap screwdriver and bent it over 90 degrees. Used the screwdriver (tried a hanger, not strong enough) to scrape and pry the "crud" loose. The muriatic acid softened it up great. Used the pressure washer to clean out all the loosened stuff. The valve now fully closes and locks into place.

However...
look at the second last photo - the seal came out also. Is it necessary? (I know dumb question) Am I now going to have to drop the belly pan, remove my black tank and rebuild/replace the valve?

Mines identical to anholman's pictured above in post #4
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Old 05-03-2007, 09:12 PM   #10
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I'm in luck as I have two of the Thetford cast elbows. I just adapted to a modern fitting using a Fernco and it has worked fine for two years . The day of reckoning is here for the valve its self, as it is now leaking.
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Old 05-10-2007, 05:05 PM   #11
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I think the pictures you are looking for are under the member name of wagsrp. I ran across them about a month ago because my black tank valve also started leaking.
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Old 05-10-2007, 05:16 PM   #12
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Hey 63air,

I rebuilt mine a few years ago. It comes apart pretty easy, just be patient. If your sliding gate is not too scored, you just need to clean everything up and replace the seals.When I reassembled it I used all stainless fasteners.I had a hell of a time finding an appropriate O ring material, however.

Mine's dripping again now so we're in the same boat.

I'd like to know where I could get some seals in Southern California. The last time I did it I was still in NY.

Keep me posted on your progress.
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Old 05-30-2007, 09:23 PM   #13
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I'm thinking about pulling the tank and converting to Valltera. I know Thetford has a bond on adaptor but it seems like Valltera is what all the RV dealers in our area recommend , Anyone converted to Valltera?
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Old 05-30-2007, 10:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 63air
I'm thinking about pulling the tank and converting to Valterra. I know Thetford has a bond on adaptor but it seems like Valterra is what all the RV dealers in our area recommend , Anyone converted to Valterra?
FWIW, I replaced all of my Thetford with Valterra fittings. Why you ask ? They are cheaper and available everywhere. Plus there is a bigger selection of configurations.
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Old 06-13-2007, 01:40 PM   #15
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here are some pics of my valve.. don't know if it's original or not.
i am not sure if it leaks. i'll have to put some water in there and see.
probably does. sink and shower grey water just goes straight out i guess...
i do have an original cast aluminum 90 degree elbow connector for this.

comments?
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Old 06-13-2007, 06:52 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1963gt
here are some pics of my valve.. don't know if it's original or not.
i am not sure if it leaks. i'll have to put some water in there and see.
probably does. sink and shower grey water just goes straight out i guess...
i do have an original cast aluminum 90 degree elbow connector for this.

comments?
That valve was obsolete over 40 years ago.

The fix is easy.

Remove the vale and all of it's associated parts.

Fiberglass a new Thetford outlet flange to the fiberglass tank.

From there, you can configure the drain system most any way you want to.

Andy
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Old 06-13-2007, 10:19 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
That valve was obsolete over 40 years ago.

The fix is easy.

Remove the vale and all of it's associated parts.

Fiberglass a new Thetford outlet flange to the fiberglass tank.

From there, you can configure the drain system most any way you want to.

Andy
i can't bolt it on like the old?
i haven't done fiberglass.. (yet)
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Old 06-20-2007, 03:40 PM   #18
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Great pictures

Great pictures of the valve, looks like the old one just bolts into the tank with a gasket between it and the tank. Is that the case? if so why can't you just fiberglass the holes( very easy with some of the marine products available) , use a Valterra fitting ( they have some that would bolt on) redrill it, bolt it on and plumb it from there? I'm with you fiberglass products are expensive and can be tricky to work with. Anyone out there done what I am thinking about? How did you do it?

I'm sure Andy's method is very good, but after 28 years in the firefighting business I have learned that there are often multiple solutions to solving a problem and getting a good result.
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Old 06-29-2007, 10:28 PM   #19
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The valve rebuild is done

Just finished the rebuild of my original brass Thetford dump valve and it was not that hard to do. Put Kano on all the screws and everything came apart easily. I did have to cut one of the grey lines (which I later reconnected with a Fernco ) to get the valve out. This valve is industrial strength and other than a good cleaning ,some new O rings , and resealing to the tank it was good to go. I had no problem getting the O ring after I visited one of the industrial supply houses in our area with the valve and used the magic words "this is off my old Airstream" . The guy even gave me a great tip about using a little contact cement to keep the O ring in place during assembly. I could not find a seal to go between the valve and tank but a 98 cent tub of plumbers putty solved that problem and will make the valve easy to remove in the future ( no silicone to get off). All I have left to do is put the belly pan piece back in place. It's good to have a place to store my used beer again.
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Old 09-06-2011, 01:12 AM   #20
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during testing, my black tank holds water just fine, but when I pull the rod to drain I get leakage from the side belly in front of the valve. Is that what this thread is about or something different?
thx, jay
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