Split water supply line

[Eliminator46]

Well, I bought me a 1979 34'Avion. If anyone has a good idea on how to replace the water supply line from the waterhose inlet forward, curbside to the galley sink, I am listening. I connected the water and it poured out from behind the refridgerator. After opening the access panel, I could feel a splet in the copper tubing. I guess I will have to remove the fridge to make this repair??? Any good advice would be appreciated. All cabinets, floor and mechanics are in excellent condition, so I don't plan on tearing it apart if I don't have too.
Thanks in advance.

[CanoeStream]

Mmm... Do you think it could have not been winterized and froze up? I know the gulf coast states have had major blue northers each of the last couple years. A split in a copper pipe suggests things got pretty bad. The sweated junctions are even more vulnerable than runs of pipe. Fix this pipe and you might find you have a myriad of other leaks. Check 'er out fully.

[Boondocker]

The easy fix would be to cut out the bad section and replace with PEX. Make sure to remove all swollen areas as swollen tubing will prevent the connection of the new fittings.

[Eliminator46]

I have a feeling the smoking gun would be a "lack of proper winterizing". I have my fingers crossed as to the extent of damage. Now, I have seen the plex stuff in stores and not too familiar with "How to connect to existing copper"? Is there a fitting that would need to be compress fit, sweat fit, or what? How do I make the connection after cutting the copper. I like this idea. More info please.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Eliminator46

I have a feeling the smoking gun would be a "lack of proper winterizing". I have my fingers crossed as to the extent of damage. Now, I have seen the plex stuff in stores and not too familiar with "How to connect to existing copper"? Is there a fitting that would need to be compress fit, sweat fit, or what? How do I make the connection after cutting the copper. I like this idea. More info please.

You would use two of these, crimped on your PEX:
H060500 - Rifeng H060500 - 1/2" PEX x 1/2" Copper Fitting Brass Adapter

[Eliminator46]

Originally Posted by overlander63

You would use two of these, crimped on your PEX:
H060500 - Rifeng H060500 - 1/2" PEX x 1/2" Copper Fitting Brass Adapter

Now you know the next question,,, How does that little animal get fit to the existing copper?

[Eliminator46]

Allright, got the water line completed. Replaced the hot and cold legs from the pump area to the kitchen sink. Used pex tubing and gator bite couplings. Amazing stuff. New faucet too. Once a tested, all was sealed except for the toilet valve was shot and would not shut off. I figured after 32yrs, it got a new Thetford Bravura toilet. The water system is all good now. Now it's time to focus on the gas systems. Furnace, water heater, and stove. All seem to be in tact, just need a little love.

[Michigander]

Originally Posted by Eliminator46

Now you know the next question,,, How does that little animal get fit to the existing copper?

I would sweat it on with a hot blow torch and solder. BTW what's a gator bite coupling?

[Wsmith]

This is probably what he was talking about. They are on the expensive side but quick and easy and you can take them apart about as quick as you put them together. I have also used instrument air tubing with these fittings with air pressures around 110 psi at work.
SharkBite Fittings | Sharkbite Plumbing | Instant Push Fittings for CPVC, Copper and PEX Tubing SharkBitePlumbing.com

[Eliminator46]

Originally Posted by Michigander

I would sweat it on with a hot blow torch and solder. BTW what's a gator bite coupling?

It is more like this one. Accomodates PVC, Copper and Pex. Just make sure you know the correct size. I called it by the wrong name. It is PEX fittings, sold at Lo*ws

[Eliminator46]

I used the 3/8" to 1/2" coupling to go from copper to 1/2" pex tubing. (comes in a roll). Then from 1/2" to NPT threads for the sink service. Flex hose 1/2"x1/2" to faucet. Couplings must be pushed completely in to seal. Approx 1/2" to seat. With a light, you can actually look in opposing end of coupling to make sure the end of the copper is past the O'ring prior to inserting the pex tubing. Make sure you use the rigid pex insert when putting the pex tubing into coupling. (Easy to forget if in a hurry, I did at first). Then simply twist lock to seal. If you have to take it apart, not so easy on copper, but easy to untwistlock and the push lock in and pull pex tubing out for poly side. These don't require any crimp tools.