Some help please..

[crane422]

So as I near the dread re plumbing of my 23' Safari I realize that my knowledge is very lacking and I decided to be smart and ask for some help. As you can see from the before picture the PO had done a number on the plumbing so it is no help. The diagram is what I "think" is the correct way to do it. Any advice would be appreciated.

[Minno]

Overall your diagram looks fine. I would add 2 more tee's and a ball valve where I drew it below in red. This will let you bypass the water heater when winterizing the trailer.

You should also add low point drains. One for the hot water line and one for the cold water line. These should be installed at the lowest point of each line, and then make sure each line never goes up and then back down. Additional low places in the lines will trap water when it's time to winterize.

I'm not sure the ball valve on the city water inlet is really needed. If you buy a city water inlet with a built in check valve, then that ball valve would be redundant. Doesn't hurt anything to have it though.

One other point is I did not install shut-off valves at each fixture. Some folks do, some don't. Mostly a personal preference, so install them if you want. Again, they won't hurt and can provide some peace of mind.

Chris

[crane422]

Thanks. Question. Don't the ball valves on the lines going in/out of water heater do the same thing as the bypass?

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by crane422

Thanks. Question. Don't the ball valves on the lines going in/out of water heater do the same thing as the bypass?

They do part of the job, they stop the water from going into and out of the tank, they just don't let the water (well air and/or RV anti-freeze) go past the tank to winterize the pipes.

[TG Twinkie]

The diagram looks good. Except for the 3rd valve to bypass the water heater.
When I rebuilt the plumbing in our trailer. I removed all of the old copper and replaced it with PEX.
I did not reinstall any drain valves. I don't see the point in using them. First: How do you determine the LOW point in the trailer? Since it has a relatively flat floor. Let's say you put the drain valves in the back of the trailer (rear bath) for example: If you don't have the tongue jack at or above the theoretical low level, the water won't run out. Let's say the drain valves are on the street side (rear) and the galley sink is on the curb side towards the front. If the trailer is parked where the curb side is lower than the street side, the water won't run out. So now what? Do you add more drain valves in different places to compensate for this type of stuff?
Drain valves just create more problems for an RV owner. Just more things you have to maintain and check when you winterize and summerize.
I blow out the lines and pump RV anti freeze into the system. Only after draining and BYPASSING the water heater. The only reason I blow as much water out of the lines as I can is to prevent dilution of the RV antifreeze by using it to push the water out.
I did put a ball valve in the city water line, as well as down stream from the pump. Sometimes the check valves that come in the pump or city water inlet will get a grain of sand or other obstruction and prevent them from sealing properly. Which may mean replacing a perfectly good pump just because you are on City water and you are filling and over flowing the fresh water tank. Because the check valve in the pump is letting water flow backwards thru the pump. With a valve, you can just close it.
Been using this system for the 4th winter season with temps of -40 and have had no problems.
I am a firm believer in the KISS method of doing things.
One more thing. The pressure regulator is external of the trailer. If it failed it would be easily replaced, since it is not hard piped into the plumbing system.
I like EASY.

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

The diagram looks good. Except for the 3rd valve to bypass the water heater.
When I rebuilt the plumbing in our trailer. I removed all of the old copper and replaced it with PEX.
I did not reinstall any drain valves. I don't see the point in using them. First: How do you determine the LOW point in the trailer? Since it has a relatively flat floor. Let's say you put the drain valves in the back of the trailer (rear bath) for example: If you don't have the tongue jack at or above the theoretical low level, the water won't run out. Let's say the drain valves are on the street side (rear) and the galley sink is on the curb side towards the front. If the trailer is parked where the curb side is lower than the street side, the water won't run out. So now what? Do you add more drain valves in different places to compensate for this type of stuff?
Drain valves just create more problems for an RV owner. Just more things you have to maintain and check when you winterize and summerize.
I blow out the lines and pump RV anti freeze into the system. Only after draining and BYPASSING the water heater. The only reason I blow as much water out of the lines as I can is to prevent dilution of the RV antifreeze by using it to push the water out.
I did put a ball valve in the city water line, as well as down stream from the pump. Sometimes the check valves that come in the pump or city water inlet will get a grain of sand or other obstruction and prevent them from sealing properly. Which may mean replacing a perfectly good pump just because you are on City water and you are filling and over flowing the fresh water tank. Because the check valve in the pump is letting water flow backwards thru the pump. With a valve, you can just close it.
Been using this system for the 4th winter season with temps of -40 and have had no problems.
I am a firm believer in the KISS method of doing things.
One more thing. The pressure regulator is external of the trailer. If it failed it would be easily replaced, since it is not hard piped into the plumbing system.
I like EASY.

Well a friend of mine has an external pressure regulator and no city water check valve and he uses the city water as a low point drain and to compensate for it not quite being the lowest point he attaches a wet/dry shop vac to it which quickly drains the water from the system, probably more effective then blowing the water uphill to get it out.

[TG Twinkie]

Sounds like a great idea, using a shop vac. Never gave it a thought.

[crane422]

Thanks for all the responses. Ordered all the fittings, pex, clamps, tools, yesterday and just waiting for arrival. If my wife ever realizes how much $ is spent on this thing I need to make it nice since Ill be living in it.