Shower manifold drips in the '70 31' Sov Intl

[chasrahm]

I connected city water supply for the first time since the two years I've owned my A/S and began the search for leaks. Not too many considering the PEX, garden hose and other splices in various places. Looks like some have stopped by tightening the hose clamps joining PEX and the copper. But...
Below is a fuzzy picture of the shower control manifold which is dripping at the sodered union on the left. It appears that the pipe has pulled out of the female fitting by maybe 1/4" causing a drip. This is a difficult place to work with tools since it is above the service area by about a foot and over to the side. What suggestions are there? Can I drain the water system and try to re-soder the union?
I also attached a photo of the A/S in the pole barn where she now sits. I'm trying to get the unit ready for my new hunting lease which has water service.

[Aage]

Originally Posted by chasrahm

Below is a fuzzy picture of the shower control manifold which is dripping at the sodered union on the left.

Any chance you can try again on the photo? I can't see a thing. This time use the "macro" mode you your camera. It's the one with the little image of a flower on it.

[chasrahm]

I took the picture with my iPhone and didn't realize it was fuzzy until I got home. The a/s is about 175 miles from my home. I might be back out there this coming weekend. Basically, it is the copper manifold where the hot and cold enter the sides of the fixture and the output pipe to the shower comes out of the center. This is the manifold behind the handle controlling the water for the shower.
I've been thinking - what about the plumber's putty/epoxy that works like clay, and dries hard and solid?

[azflycaster]

Plumber putty is great for sealing drain fixtures to a sink and things like that, but I would not use it on a line that has pressure on it. The best fix for a soldered joint that is leaking is to solder again.

[chasrahm]

Not plumber's putty, but a plumbing product that applies like a putty, is pressed and worked into and area, and then the putty dries and adheres like an epoxy.
THe manifold is far up inside the service area and just a few inches below the fiberglass which is the underside of the basin area. I'm worried that a torch to re-solder the joint might be too much heat up in that area.
Thanks, Charles Rahm

[easyride]

If you pull the cartridge,that will let the moisture out,then use a flame shield to block fiberglass from heat,a piece of sheet rock with paper removed from 1 side works pretty good.The epoxy will work very seldom,ask me how I know. Dave

[overlander63]

Drain the water, open it up, and re-sweat the joint back together. Trying a short cut usually ends up anything but.

[Aage]

Originally Posted by easyride

If you pull the cartridge,that will let the moisture out,then use a flame shield to block fiberglass from heat,a piece of sheet rock with paper removed from 1 side works pretty good.The epoxy will work very seldom,ask me how I know. Dave

My '74 uses a Moen tap set in the galley and the bathroom; same cartridge in both. I had to pull and replace one in the kitchen sink recently.

Trust me, it's not a job to do unless absolutely necessary. Darn thing was as tough as nails to get out. It needs a special little tool (adapter) to break the hold that 35 years of hard water encrusts its innards with.

That tool comes with the new cartridge. See where this is going?

[easyride]

Pulling the cartridge is the easiest way to let the steam out. Dave

[chasrahm]

Is there a easy way to access the manifold from inside the trailer by removing the panel under the sink?
Can a guy remove the panel without too many other items having to be removed?