Replumbing - Suggested Materials?

[frone]

I recently bought a 1993 AS classic with the twin beds in the rear and driver's side bath. The plumbing is all original and I need some repairs to leaks. I want to replace the entire system and not disturb too much. I am in agreement for replacing with PEX. I see this thread is dated and would like to know if you have had successes in replumbing without major disassembly?? For example, are there easy ways to get around the side of the heater and from the bathroom (both on the stret side of my trailer) across the underbelly to the curb side where the pump and galley sink are located? Many thanks for your sharing

[Lothlorian]

I put in apex with shark bite fittings. 12 years and no leaks

[TG Twinkie]

I used PEX with Flair It fittings. 10 years, no leaks.
Flair It fittings are less expensive and don't require special tools.

[Dan and Liz]

I used PEX/Sharkbite to repair a few areas on our trailer and they’ve worked well. BUT — had some house plumbing repaired yesterday and the plumber said he really prefers the PEX fittings over Sharkbite. Just his experience ...

[AlinCal]

I am a plumber and would recommend buying a crimp tool and go with pex and ss crimp bands. Sharkbite are ok for one time or limited use but cost of fittings over tool purchase for crimp style that are bullet proof does not make sense.

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by AlinCal

I am a plumber and would recommend buying a crimp tool and go with pex and ss crimp bands. Sharkbite are ok for one time or limited use but cost of fittings over tool purchase for crimp style that are bullet proof does not make sense.

I completely agree.

I might add here that I used a regular crimping tool along with a small you that works in conjunction with vise grips for hard to reach areas. Make all the short complicated sections out in the open then insert them where you make one crimp to connect them with the long runs of pex.

Dan

[ke6gkv]

i also use PEX, crimp tool is easy to use, shark-bite fittings are ok for repairs when you don't/can't tear everything apart. good luck. kurt

[kpm]

Also recommending the PEX/crimp technology. Airstream is using PEX with stainless clamp cinch rings on current model trailers. The crimp clamps are a somewhat different technology from the copper crimp rings and they require different crimp tools. I started using the crimp clamps just this last fall and they are a pleasure to work with if you get a decent crimp tool and cutter.

I use the IWISS PEX Crimping tool and the IWISS PEX pipe cutter. Very reasonably priced and work well. BTW, I've found the easiest way to remove a crimp clamp is to peel it off with a diagonal cutter.

[frone]

Many thanks to each of you for all of your very helpful reply posts!
As background, I have done some pvc and cpvc owner work and once (1980) replumbed a 1700 ft2 house with brazed copper tubing because it was plumbed with thin walled HWBB piping and had leaks everywhere. I was sure glad that it was a ranch on an unfinished basement!
Anyway, I'm fullly onboard with PEX and using a crimping tool thanks to your kind and helpful suggestions, as well as prefab and planned installation of each of the sections where I can get away with doing that. I plan to do the work next spring as I live in N Maryland with our first snow flakes falling of this winter -- and no indoor area to work or stow the TT for the winter.

Say, What is the easiest and least destructive way to replace the hot and cold water pipes that traverse under the floor of the TT from left to right? My TT layout has the water heater, street water inlet, and bath on the road side; and the kitchen, water pump, and water header drains and fresh water tank fill and drains on the curb side and there are pipes going behind the water heater and shower and then "athwart ship" under the floor. Do I need to rip up the floor to replace that piping?

Many thanks to all you you for your terrific help!

[A W Warn]

The water pipe crossover in my 99 34' is inside the pan that surrounds the fresh water tank, where it is protected by heat from the furnace. IMO, it would be easier to unbolt the pan than to cut/patch the floor (and cutting the floor weakens the structural diaphragm the floor provides).

If you create a lower level of pipe at the crossover, this is where the low point drain should be for ease of winterizing.

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by AlinCal

I am a plumber and would recommend buying a crimp tool and go with pex and ss crimp bands. Sharkbite are ok for one time or limited use but cost of fittings over tool purchase for crimp style that are bullet proof does not make sense.

Alan,
I'm not a professional plumber, but have plumbed a few houses (for myself, family, and friends). Last week I used a borrowed single hand operated ratcheting crimp tool (?maybe Apollo?) and SS bands for the first time, to repair a leak in my friend's trailer. I see the advantage in speed and ease of install in tight spaces.
I started using the copper compression type crimp ring bands back in the 1990's and continued using them still since I already own the tools.
The thinness of the SS crimp band and the multiple layers of material makes me question the durability, the ability to retain the crimp. Do you see that one type of band is sturdier or longer lasting than the other? (I'm considering re-tooling)

[frone]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

The water pipe crossover in my 99 34' is inside the pan that surrounds the fresh water tank, where it is protected by heat from the furnace. IMO, it would be easier to unbolt the pan than to cut/patch the floor (and cutting the floor weakens the structural diaphragm the floor provides).

If you create a lower level of pipe at the crossover, this is where the low point drain should be for ease of winterizing.

Many thanks for your suggestion. It looks like the pan has a ton of sealant. Is the pan easy to remove?

[AlinCal]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

Alan,
I'm not a professional plumber, but have plumbed a few houses (for myself, family, and friends). Last week I used a borrowed single hand operated ratcheting crimp tool (?maybe Apollo?) and SS bands for the first time, to repair a leak in my friend's trailer. I see the advantage in speed and ease of install in tight spaces.
I started using the copper compression type crimp ring bands back in the 1990's and continued using them still since I already own the tools.
The thijnness of the SS crimp band and the multiple layers of material makes me question the durability, the ability to retain the crimp. Do you see that one type of band is sturdier or longer lasting than the other? (I'm considering re-tooling)

Sorry for not seeing this earlier, the vast majority of my work involves copper tubing so I do not see that much pex but I can say I have never seen a failure of any of the systems or methods. If I am doing any residential pex work I go with the expansion tool and Upnor fittings and pipe, the expansion tool is not suited to tight spaces and close fitting to fitting work, this plus the normally coiled tubing makes for less pretty work that gets exposed behind hatches and cabinets in an RV and is hard to make straight nice looking manifolds etc.
I recommend someone starting out with rv pex work to go the ss crimp method for its ease of use and cost benifit plus availability. I can't say its any better than copper crimp and not sure you should change your tooling if your happy with it.

[TouringDan]

You can buy pex tubing in 10’ and 20’ straight lengths. I am not sure it makes any difference whether you use copper crimp rings or ss crimp rings.

Dan

[AlinCal]

Originally Posted by TouringDan

You can buy pex tubing in 10’ and 20’ straight lengths. I am not sure it makes any difference whether you use copper crimp rings or ss crimp rings.

Dan

All pex is not the same, different manufactures have their proprietary system. Both crimp styles that use the straight length tubeing may cross over I'm not sure but the expansion system Uponor aquapex must be used with their fittings and expansion rings, this pipe I've only seen in 100' rolls.
The ss crimp system I used on our trailer was Shark bite brand, their pipe can be used with their ss crimps or the push on fittings.

[Outbackga]

Why not leave the copper in the hard to access places, and PEX for the rest. Just use a copper to PEX adapter. Worked for me. My 1973 is mostly copper with flared fittings. Expensive, but solid!

[Bubba L]

Outbackga, that makes sense. We plumbed our 66 and 55 with PEX. The on demand hot water heater had copper coming out of the unit and had to use a Sharkbite to PEX adapter fitting. So far, so good. We went with the Wirsbo Uponor fittings and PEX tubing from supplyhouse.com. We use the Milwaukee expander tool. You place the plastic ring over the end of the tubing and use the tool to expand the end and slip it over whatever you are connecting to. The expanded end immediately relaxes back to the original shape with a very tight and waterproof connection. Just a thought. Good luck.

[Outbackga]

Yep!

[rmkrum]

I use only PEX but have both crimper systems. Most of the time with a little planning you can work copper rings in there. All else fails, the SS ones also work fine.

I studiously avoid copper for RV water lines because it’s toast if you get accidentally frozen. PEX might survive the experience if you use good metal fitting. The plastic ones just instantly split if frozen.

In my house, good old fashioned soldered copper tubing everywhere, mainly because that how it was built.

(Many thanks to the grumpy Master Plumber that taught me how to properly solder copper when I was about 14 years old. He made darn sure I learned how to do it right, by having me rip out all the work I did, look at all the lousy joints, and do it all over again. I cussed him under my breath then, but he sure taught me how to do it perfectly since then, every time!)