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Old 10-20-2019, 06:22 PM   #1
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2015 23' FB Flying Cloud
Bend , Oregon
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Replacing the Plastic OEM Fresh Water Drain Valve

Access to remove and replace the plastic OEM fresh water drain valve is a significant challenge on a 2015 Flying Cloud. The Airstream engineers did not provide a removable opening large enough in the galvanized tank cover to allow access to the two drain valve hose clamps. I had to drill a half inch hole adjacent to the respective clamps to allow access for a screwdriver. Using 50 cent plastic plugs sealed up the holes and will ease future replacement of the fragile sticking OEM valve. A second option would require removing the galvanized tank cover. A time consuming and difficult process during inclement weather. This second option has been explained in earlier posts.
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Old 10-20-2019, 07:52 PM   #2
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2014 23' International
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Would love to see photos if you took any. As you know I’ve removed mine. While I had it out I cut that access hole bigger and made a new cover for it.
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Old 10-26-2019, 06:11 PM   #3
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Photos of process

The attached photos indicate the process and reasoning behind this approach to replacing a damaged plastic fresh water drain valve. This may be unique to the 23' 2015 Flying Cloud. Hopefully Airstream provided a larger access panel on your Airstream trailer which allows easy access to the associated plumbing. Photo #1-ramps and blocks to provide height. #2-drill in position (photo upside down). #3-replacement parts. #4-half inch hole for outboard clamp access. #5-hole in relationship to access cover. #6-original parts. Drill carefully. May require another hole at inboard clamp. I did not need second hole. It is important to use new clamps and tubing. Plastic plugs keep dirt out of galvanized cover. $10 should cover repair parts.
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Old 10-26-2019, 06:15 PM   #4
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Followup to posted photos

There is a spring in the tubing to prevent kinking.
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Old 11-15-2019, 07:41 AM   #5
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i have slowly been replacing all the plastic PEX 90 angle and connector with metal parts. Next summer , i want to replace the shut off valves with metal ball valves

i own it now, thus i can afford to replace initial cheap , with long term lasting
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Old 11-17-2019, 10:57 AM   #6
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On my trailer there was probably less than 1/4" between the end of the barb fitting on the tank and the barb fitting on the back of the drain valve. An interesting problem given that my trailer had the same offset as pictured in Robere's last shot. My tubing did not have a spring; there wasn't enough room for it to do any good. When I opened the access plate, pieces of masking tape with some white goop on them fell out. I think someone in the past had put sealant over the tubing (which was cracked) and wrapped it with masking tape to hold it while it cured. When it all let go, my tank leaked all the water out through the access plate.

Years ago I found a replacement for the valve which is an aluminum plate like the backing plate on the valve. It has a hose barb on the rear and a threaded hole on the front. You can screw in a valve or a plug as you prefer. The hose barb is lomg and has two sizes of barbs. I cut off the smaller end which leaves the larger barb matching the barb on the brass tank fitting, and gives me an extra 1/4" to make the s-bend needed to mate the tubing with the two pieces. I found the plate on e-Bay but the last time I looked they weren't there any more.

I did a temporary repair while on the road. I pulled all the pieces out and replaced the hose barb fitting in the tank with a plug. When I get home I'll mount the plate and the new hose. I'll probably open up the hole in the pan to allow a straight run of tubing while I'm at it.

Al
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