Replacing fresh water tank drain valve - 2014 23D

[RFP]

Good day, all. I am wanting to replace the plastic drain valve (spigot) on the fresh water tank on our 2014 23D with one of the machined aluminum ones which are available on eBay.

Sounds easy enough, yes?

Well, probably not.

I loosened the two screws holding the existing [factory] drain valve, hoping that it would pull out enough to reveal the attached plastic tubing and clamp. Of course, it wouldn't budge with the amount of force I was willing to use. Not knowing what would happen if I really horsed the thing out, I replaced the screws and decided to think about it another day. I guess today's the day (!)

My big fear is that if I force the factory valve out and away from the tank cover, it will pull the tubing loose and leave me with virtually no way to re-attach the tubing (with the new aluminum valve) to the tank.

So, has anybody been down this road and can offer any insight or advice on how to proceed?

Many thanks...

Rob

[dznf0g]

Not sure on yours, but is there an access plate on the bottom of the pan and an access hole through the floor where the fill tube and plumbing goes to the tank? Between the two, you can get to the short tube between the tank and the valve. Still not too easy due to cramped space, but can be done, with patience.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Not sure on yours, but is there an access plate on the bottom of the pan and an access hole through the floor where the fill tube and plumbing goes to the tank? Between the two, you can get to the short tube between the tank and the valve. Still not too easy due to cramped space, but can be done, with patience.

Thank you very much, Rich, for the encouraging reply!

Yes, there is a 'access plate' on the bottom of the pan; I don't know if it's in the middle of the tank or not, but it is in that general area. There's no 'access hole' in the floor that I've found, and it looks like a huge job to remove enough interior furnishings to find such an access.

Perhaps you know where the drain tube attaches to the actual tank: at the end of the tank or at the bottom? Wouldn't it be great it the connection were at the bottom and I could get to the tubing and clamp through that rectangular access panel on the bottom of the pan

Thanks again, and Merry Christmas!

Rob

[dznf0g]

It attaches to the tank pretty much straight in from the spigot valve. The section of hose from the tank nipple to the valve is only about 1.5". If you're lucky the hose clamp on the tank nipple will be turned the right way. If not, cut it off with slide cutters and install new clamps and line.

[fwjumper]

That cheap little plastic valve is usually sealed to the tank cover with vulkem or some other sealant. If you can't budge it at all, that is probably the case. Even if the hose is short, you should be able to wiggle and twist it somewhat, once you get it loosened up. It may take some force or working around it with a blade to get it loose. Even then, if the hose is too short to access the clamp (and it probably is) see if you can get to it through the access panel as mentioned previously. If that access panel is not in a convenient spot, there is no reason that you can't either enlarge it, if it's close, or cut a new access panel where you need it. There is no magic to it. Just be careful to make the cut with a device that you can control well enough not to penetrate the tank itself. Tank should be sitting on some insulation. If so, you have a little wiggle room to work with. (maybe 3/8" to 1/2" and I'm being conservative here for the sake of your tank. It may be 3/4 to 1".)) Make the hole as neat as possible and then cut a new cover slightly larger and be sure to seal it well. They are typically held on by 1/4" to 3/8" sheet metal screws. I always use stainless screws and a piece of aluminum to make the cover. Why any manufacturer still uses those cheapo valves is beyond me. Good luck. I've done this to a bunch of trailers. You'll be fine.

[CruizinDux]

FWIW, here's a thread that I had saved for when my time came.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...-151072-2.html

post # 18 re the use of DW's hair dryer to soften the hose.

Bob

[OTRA15]

Thanks for the reminder of that earlier thread, Bob, where ROBERT CROSS fine tunes the suggested replacement valve in Post #5.

Good luck getting the old drain valve off, Rob, and please keep us advised.

Thanks,

Peter

[Diehard51]

Rob, Adding a few pics of my replacement of the cheap plastic valve on fresh water drain tank with that same drain cock you are wanting to use on your AS. All previous post certainly have good advice on access and procedure. On my 1986 Sovereign 25 ' twin, that I recently acquired and in the process of restoring. I replaced that drain cock. I was lucky to have an access cover as described as I'm sure it had been replaced multiple times. Theirs not much room as you can see by the pics but you can manage to get hose clamp on and positioned for a nut driver to tighten. I made a small backer plate for valve out of galvanized metal to secure valve to pan. I hope you are successful and thanks to all the contributors to the forums as the knowledge base has helped me quite a bit in my search and repair methods on my AS.


Diehard51

Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums

[BillfromWI]

I have a 2014 FC25FB. When I replaced the plastic valve I had to cut an access hole in the bottom of the black plastic "box" the water tank is contained in and fabricate a galvanized sheet metal cover.

The hole for the plastic valve was too small to allow the hose clamp through. But regardless, the hose was too short to pull the clamp through any way.

I thought the black plastic would be pretty thick so I use a router (and wrecked the bit when it hit the hose clamp). My after-action assessment is that the plastic could be cut with a utility knife with much less drama and no need for a guide template.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by BillfromWI

. . .
I thought the black plastic would be pretty thick so I use a router (and wrecked the bit when it hit the hose clamp). My after-action assessment is that the plastic could be cut with a utility knife with much less drama and no need for a guide template.

Thanks for the update Bill. How thick would you say the plastic is, and could a small hand-held saw (like a Dremel Tool with circular saw blade, for instance) get through it more efficiently? How close to the inside of the plastic was the hose clamp? Would it have helped to set the depth of the router's plunge cut to just the thickness of the plastic, in hindsight?

Thanks for any further tips, as I see the day coming when we will also have to replace that cheap plastic drain valve.

Peter

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

...

Thanks for any further tips, as I see the day coming when we will also have to replace that cheap plastic drain valve.

Peter

Really.... xx/xx/xx any/inconvenient/day & place


Thanks everyone for the tips, pics and experience.

Diehard51: nice finished product

Bob

BTW: here is a drain valve link that I had saved from an earlier thread.

I'll be buying mine here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-FRESH-WAT...c=1&rmvSB=true

note at bottom of web page: This Company Is Operated By A 100% Disabled Marine Corps, Combat Engineer Veteran...

[RFP]

Originally Posted by Diehard51

Attachment 277181Attachment 277182

Rob, Adding a few pics of my replacement of the cheap plastic valve on fresh water drain tank with that same drain cock you are wanting to use on your AS. [snip]
Diehard51

Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums

Diehard51,

Thanks for the very helpful post! I assume that the first two photos were taken looking UP from under the trailer, into the fresh water tank area. Right?

[CRH]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Thanks for any further tips, as I see the day coming when we will also have to replace that cheap plastic drain valve.

Peter

Maybe....My 1995 still has the original cheap plastic drain valve.

[Diehard51]

Originally Posted by RFP

Diehard51,

Thanks for the very helpful post! I assume that the first two photos were taken looking UP from under the trailer, into the fresh water tank area. Right?

Your are Welcome RFP, and yes the first two pics I took from the underside of fresh water tank where the access cover was located. Good luck with yours.

[BillfromWI]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Thanks for the update Bill. How thick would you say the plastic is, and could a small hand-held saw (like a Dremel Tool with circular saw blade, for instance) get through it more efficiently? How close to the inside of the plastic was the hose clamp? Would it have helped to set the depth of the router's plunge cut to just the thickness of the plastic, in hindsight?

Thanks for any further tips, as I see the day coming when we will also have to replace that cheap plastic drain valve.

Peter

Peter,

Sorry for this delay in responding. I think the black plastic was about 3/16" thick and it was softer than I expected. The hose clamp was "very" close to the plastic.

Yes, setting the bit depth shallower would have been better but the smallest template guide bit I had on hand was set as shallow as I could...so here we go. I should have gotten a shorter bit, and I have. In my defense, I did remove another access panel to verify that my setup would not contact the tank but I could not see or feel the hose clamp.

Yes, a dremel tool would probably work. I like diamond blades in plastic--very little grabbing. But I think a knife would work and if I were to do it again that is how I would start.

[KJRitchie]

Hey, Rob, I wonder if there is a flanged fitting with a barb on one end for the short hose and a thread on the outside to screw on a cap, ala Casita drain. It would drain the tank much faster.

My Classic 25fb water drain valve, while not brittle, is sticky. I'd have to cut an access hole in the rotocast liner to get to mine as mentioned above. I should've put that one my list for A&P.

Kelvin

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

Hey, Rob, I wonder if there is a flanged fitting with a barb on one end for the short hose and a thread on the outside to screw on a cap, ala Casita drain. It would drain the tank much faster.

My Classic 25fb water drain valve, while not brittle, is sticky. I'd have to cut an access hole in the rotocast liner to get to mine as mentioned above. I should've put that one my list for A&P.

Kelvin

Kelvin, mine was sticky when I ordered the aluminum replacement. Then I read about soaking the valve with food grade silicone spray. That was 4 years ago and the plastic one still operates smoothly and easily. The aluminum one resides in my travel parts bag, awaiting the inevitable failure which hasn't come yet.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

Hey, Rob, I wonder if there is a flanged fitting with a barb on one end for the short hose and a thread on the outside to screw on a cap, ala Casita drain. It would drain the tank much faster.

My Classic 25fb water drain valve, while not brittle, is sticky. I'd have to cut an access hole in the rotocast liner to get to mine as mentioned above. I should've put that one my list for A&P.

Kelvin

Yes, Kelvin, that would make draining a lot faster... actually, if one were to use a simple threaded plug ( PVC), instead of the petcock, draining would be faster as well. I'll consider that.

[RFP]

Originally Posted by BillfromWI

Peter,

Sorry for this delay in responding. I think the black plastic was about 3/16" thick and it was softer than I expected. The hose clamp was "very" close to the plastic..

I haven't decided whether I'm cursed or blessed by having a galvanized pan instead of plastic. Cutting a proper access hole into the metal pan will certainly be more complicated than cutting. Into plastic. Darn!

[KJRitchie]

A Dremel with the proper cutting tool would work well on either but plastic seems to melt more than cut with my tools. I know you are up to the task.

Kelvin