repairing damaged fresh water pan on Classic 25FB

[tqflightdoc]

Plumbing, never as easy as it looks! We recently purchased our Classic 25FB in Oregon, and had a driver bring it to our home in Maine. Long the way, the front of the fresh water tank pan was damaged. So I ordered a new one, and am now attempting to replace the damaged cover. Removing the six bolts in front and 6 bolts on the rear was simple, but then.... The whole tank comes down with the pan. I see three pluming connections that must be detached from the pan to remove it. The tank drain line - a short flexible plastic line from the tank to the side of the pan, ending in a white plastic drain valve. The line is attached by hose clamps - loosening these should allow me to remove the line.

But..There are two plastic lines ending in small stopcocks through the bottom of the pan. I believe these are low point drains, connected to plumbing from above.
How does one remove these two lines from the pan? Looking through the access cover opening, I can see large plastic nuts at the inside surface of the pan, but how does one get to these to loosen them, and would this uncouple the lines from the tank?

Any suggestions on how to remove this pan would be most appreciated!

[GMFL]

Here are some photos that might give you an idea of what’s in there.

Blog post
http://www.airforums.com/forums/blog...lacement-2929/

http://www.airforums.com/forums/blog...t-part-2-2930/

[tqflightdoc]

GMFL, thanks for your pictures, and nice work, I might add. So your statement "I had to cut the PEX pipe for the low point drains that was routed through the water tank pan in order to drop the tank. I decided to add a male and female connection to this pipe which would allow me to reconnect the line and disconnect it later if I ever needed to." implies I need to simply cut the two low point drain lines, then reconnect them by installing threaded fittings.

But how to reconnect the fittings with the tank and pan now back in place? Do I now need a larger access opening to allow me to reach the fittings to tighten them? Or is it possible to get an improved stopcock fitting that has a flange on the inside of the pan, and a screw on flange for the outside. With this I could reconnect the drain lines before putting the pan in position, then lift the pan up into position, then tighten the outside flange fittings. Do you think this would work?

[GMFL]

I was able to reach mine from inside the trailer. The 23D layout allows you to access the top of the tanks area (where the low point drains and other plumbing goes through the floor) by removing the converter to access the area.

[tqflightdoc]

Thanks again. I will see what I can access from above the tank. It will have to wait until this weekend - will report back. I have the trailer up on four good floor jack stands.

There is something satisfying about working on this machine. It has been a good introduction to its inner workings. I live in Maine, and appreciate your insulation work on the water tank. I will do the same.

[tqflightdoc]

Now I am back at work on replacing the fresh water pan on our 25 ft classic.

Questions please:
1. Must the tank come down and be removed while removing the pan?
2. From an access hole in the floor, I can reach the two low point drain lines, but how does one remove the fittings? Or do you simply cut the lines where they come out of the floor and then install shark bite fittings or screw fittings?
3. How does one disconnect the tank to pan drain hose? This is a short length of tubing with small hose clamps on each end. Must the tank and pan come off the trailer together to access and remove this line?
4. If the tank has to come out with the pan, then the water lines to the tank and the pump supply line must re disconnected. Not easy to feel, and unable to see the fittings. Any ideas?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by tqflightdoc

Now I am back at work on replacing the fresh water pan on our 25 ft classic.

Questions please:
1. Must the tank come down and be removed while removing the pan? Yes, the tank is held in place by the pan.
2. From an access hole in the floor, I can reach the two low point drain lines, but how does one remove the fittings? Or do you simply cut the lines where they come out of the floor and then install shark bite fittings or screw fittings? Correct. You gotta cut the fittings. When I did mine I added back male and female screw fittings.
3. How does one disconnect the tank to pan drain hose? This is a short length of tubing with small hose clamps on each end. Must the tank and pan come off the trailer together to access and remove this line? Yep. You might be able to disconnected it through the access hole in the bottom of the pan, but it will be tight. Best to just drop both at. The same time.
4. If the tank has to come out with the pan, then the water lines to the tank and the pump supply line must re disconnected. Not easy to feel, and unable to see the fittings. Any ideas?Pump line should be able to be disconnected from inside the trailer. The tack fill line will need to be disconnected at the fill spout on the side of the trailer then the hose can be feed through and dropped with the tank.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Call me if you like. I’ve been there 334-332-0003

[umasslax]

I have a 2002 25ft Classic. Where did you buy the replacement aluminum freshwater pan? Thanks

[tqflightdoc]

The fresh water bely pan on my 25FB is made of galvanized sheet metal, and I ordered it through a dealer from Airstream. I have been distracted (updating a hangar) from finishing this job, but will get back to it in January.

[umasslax]

Have reached out to several dealers for pricing ... $240 for pan, $30 for tax, plus freight to ship to dealer. This could get expensive. Can't imagine the cost to install on top of that.

[tqflightdoc]

Thanks GMFL and all for your suggestions. The job is complete. I was able to save the two low point drain lines. I cut out a section of the old tank with metal shears which provided access to the inside fittings. However, a disconnect above the tank would be desirable if I ever have to again remove this tank.

As a side note, the truck, hitch, and trailer were ready for our vacation March 12th. Off we went from Maine, got down to a friend's house in Lancaster, PA, and filled the tank for the first time (had to get out of freezing temperatures).
We found two leaks: The toilet flush mechanism broke above the inlet pipe, and the brass shower nipple behind the control valve was cracked. Both likely due to freezing water. Both fixed, and we proceeded to enjoy the camper.

We had a F250 diesel, towing with a ProPride hitch, pulling a 25 foot Airstream Classic ( max weight 8000 pounds). A great combination - absolutely no trailer sway. The first time a semi-truck passed me I did not know it until it appeared out the driver's window! Mileage at 65 to 70mph was 13.7 with winterized diesel, 16 to 17.4 with regular diesel. The diesel engine braking nicely kept the rig slowed going down mountains in Virginia.

But the Corona virus stopped our plans, and 11 days later we were back home in Maine, faced with winterizing! If one lives in Maine, simply blowing out your water system is inadequate to winterize it. You must pump trailer antifreeze through the lines, flush the toilet until pink antifreeze comes into the bowl, run the shower, drain the low point drains, empty, then flush with antifreeze the hot water tank, and put antifreeze in the drain traps. Then disconnect the pump output and run it, draining the water out of the pump. It would be best to run antifreeze through this also.

Sounds like a lot of work - it is not too difficult once you do it the first time!

Now I have found that, when hooked to city water, the fresh water tank fill port drains water down the side of the trailer, indicating a defective check valve separating the pressurized system from the tank. If any of you know where this valve is, and ideas on how to change it, please let me know.

[Obipogue]

Originally Posted by tqflightdoc

Plumbing, never as easy as it looks! We recently purchased our Classic 25FB in Oregon, and had a driver bring it to our home in Maine. Long the way, the front of the fresh water tank pan was damaged. So I ordered a new one, and am now attempting to replace the damaged cover. Removing the six bolts in front and 6 bolts on the rear was simple, but then.... The whole tank comes down with the pan. I see three pluming connections that must be detached from the pan to remove it. The tank drain line - a short flexible plastic line from the tank to the side of the pan, ending in a white plastic drain valve. The line is attached by hose clamps - loosening these should allow me to remove the line.



But..There are two plastic lines ending in small stopcocks through the bottom of the pan. I believe these are low point drains, connected to plumbing from above.

How does one remove these two lines from the pan? Looking through the access cover opening, I can see large plastic nuts at the inside surface of the pan, but how does one get to these to loosen them, and would this uncouple the lines from the tank?



Any suggestions on how to remove this pan would be most appreciated!

Hi there! Can I ask where you purchased your new pan from?

[tqflightdoc]

I was told by Airstream that replacement parts must be ordered by a dealer. So we used the Airstream dealer in Scarborough, Maine. This is the closest dealership to our home. The dealership is Prime Airstream. The parts people have been polite, most helpful, and a pleasure to work with - many thanks.

When ordering the fresh water pan - include measurements of the pan. Note that the drain side of the pan is deeper than the other side.

The dealer can have the parts drop-shipped to your home.