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Old 04-02-2004, 04:04 PM   #1
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Question Plumbing/water filler

I hooked up the water to my Caravel for the first time yesterday. After several trips to the hardware, all water lines are intact and not leaking.
BUT when I leave the garden hose on, the tank overfills, pops open the water filler on the streetside and overflows. No shut-off valve to that line is visible.
Does anyone know what I'm missing?

Rog
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Old 04-02-2004, 04:09 PM   #2
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There should be a check valve in the water pump to prevent this from happening. The outlet of the pump is "Teed" into the same line that the city water connects to. This is the only way I know of for water to fill into the tank unless the PO added some sort of valve to bypass the pump check valve. I would start with the pump.
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Old 04-03-2004, 08:01 AM   #3
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Thanks Brett. The original valve is either shot or was removed by PO. That water line is a combination ov pvc pipe and rubber hose. Looks like the easiest remedy will be to cut the hose and add an in-line check valve.

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Old 07-19-2004, 06:39 AM   #4
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I installed a check valve in the 1" line but the water fill still overflows. I discovered that there is a second hose, maybe 3/8" leading to the water fill which is leaking at the bottom, near the top of the fresh water tank. I'll have to remove the furnace ductwork to get to it.
Why 2 lines to the water fill? What to do?
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Old 07-19-2004, 06:53 AM   #5
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That second smaller line from the top of the tank to the water fill is a vent line. When you are running a hose into the tank full on the vent stops you from getting all wet

Did the check valve stop the auto fill you were experiencing?
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Old 07-19-2004, 07:01 AM   #6
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Thanks for the reply Brett. The check valve did not stop the overflow. I am filling with a garden hose to the rear water connector.
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Old 07-19-2004, 07:32 AM   #7
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From what I can see, it's kinda like this:
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Old 07-19-2004, 07:46 AM   #8
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Rog,

The drawing you posted shows a check valve on the inlet from the exterior fill?

The check valve should be on the outlet line from the tank, the one that feeds the pump. This should be a 1/2 to 3/4 line. I am still betting on the pressure feed thru the pump to the tank theory.
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Old 07-19-2004, 07:59 AM   #9
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What a mess! I really won't know more until I remove the furnace duct to get a good view. I can see that the bottom of the small rubber hose is split and that is why it is leaking. What I cannot see is where the check valve should be. Looks like dummy me put the check valve on the wrong line.
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Old 08-01-2004, 07:25 PM   #10
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Thumbs up Fixed......knock on wood

Removed the ductwork today and got a much clearer view of the plumbing. 2 manual shut off valves were hidden by the duct. I replaced 2 hoses which had split ends and one that was nearly cracked. Fiddled with the valves to find the right combination.
Very tight quarters to work in but glad I was able to fix the leaks before any permanent damage.
These old coaches are a constant source of mechanical education. Learned a plumbing lesson but am far from being a skilled plumber. What is the correct amount of butt cleavage to display?
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Old 08-01-2004, 09:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rog0525
.....Learned a plumbing lesson but am far from being a skilled plumber. What is the correct amount of butt cleavage to display?
Only enough to make the children giggle but not point and laugh.
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