Pipe Size?

[centennialman]

Can someone let me know what size copper pipe was originally used for the fresh water system? I have a 66 Safari. There is a leak and I want to do a repair.....not sure what size I have. Thanks!

[vinstream]

1/2" copper pipe!

[Zeppelinium]

If you'd ever had freeze problems you may find that the pipe is an "unusual" diameter. You'll also find some rare diameters, like 3/8", which can be found at air conditioning parts places, not plumbing places (the fittings and reduction bushings, etc.).

I recommend taking the plunge and changing the copper to PEX when you have the time. You can mix copper and PEX, so if you have some hard to drain bends, that's where to start the conversion.

Zep

[markdoane]

I would replace it all with Pex also. I didn't find any 1/2" pipe, mine was all 3/8" soft tubing.

[crowldawg]

3/8 soft tubing has an od of a 1/2 " .That what was originally in the coach .If it froze at any point you will have what I was told at the plumbing supply house when I brought a small piece in . "YOU have no size" ,"What"? "Your pipe froze you have No size"
I'm going with copper all the way around .Don't have to run all those Home runs
Hard pipe reguardless wheter its k.l,m is all 1/2 ID

[easyride]

You don`t have to run home runs with pex,run it just like copper,just buy pex angle stops and correct supplylines to tie in your faucets. Also on ebay you can buy a repair crimper to get in the tight places.I would only use crimp fittings,no shark bites,no compression.If there is a low spot ,no problem,the pex won`t burst.Haven`t seen hard copper in either of my airstreams,but hard is also made 1/4&3/8 ID. Dave

[crowldawg]

I have a little hard copper coming in from the hose bib through the presure regulator .Then its all soft "no size". I made the mistake thinking that L copper was soft .I found outthe hard way after I went to flair it that L is for the wall diameter .I just thought that it would look neater repiping the globtrotter with lengths of copper instead of rolling it out
Anyhow I already bought the copper ROLL

[Distantdrummer]

What's a "home run" ?

Must be a site somewhere that explains all the different sizes and types of piping. I mean ALL of them.

Just how many different types of piping are there that are used for plumbing?
Copper hard
Copper soft
Galvanized steel
Pex
PVC Schedule 40 I presume ?
What's that grey stuff that I thought was outlawed?
MORE ?

and for Air Conditioning
Copper hard
Copper soft
MORE ?

Where is and what is the "Bible" to learn ALL about pipe and tubing?

[ibgl6]

Originally Posted by Distantdrummer

What's a "home run" ?

Must be a site somewhere that explains all the different sizes and types of piping. I mean ALL of them.

Just how many different types of piping are there that are used for plumbing?
Copper hard
Copper soft
Galvanized steel
Pex
PVC Schedule 40 I presume ?
What's that grey stuff that I thought was outlawed?
MORE ?



and for Air Conditioning
Copper hard
Copper soft
MORE ?

Where is and what is the "Bible" to learn ALL about pipe and tubing?

I don't know that much about copper pipe but I believe a home run is concidered 1 piece from point a to point b with no fittings in between.. For the time being I am gonna attempt to repair a couple leaky places in the copper pipe I have dont really want to get into replacing the whole thing with pex.

[Zeppelinium]

Originally Posted by Distantdrummer

...
Must be a site somewhere that explains all the different sizes and types of piping. I mean ALL of them.
...

You can't know. Just when you think you do, you discover that plumbers work in ID and airconditioning people work in OD, or is it the other way around? Maybe it's the brass fittings that are OD and everybody else is ID? The only solution is to go stand in front of the fittings at HD and start plugging pieces together.

I do it every time I do a plumbing job, so you should, too.

Zep

[Not Done]

When is 1/2 inch pipe not 1/2 inch? Answer: When they build my '73. I was/am replacing the city supply pipe only to find that the 1/2" coupler I intended to use to loin the new work and the old work didn't fit the old work. I cut a piece of old work (original) pipe off and took it to Lowes to show them the 1/2 inch they sold doesn't fit the 1/2" I have. They said the orginal is thicker wall alloy copper pipe. Nothing in the store will couple to two. I'm trying the "wrong" size fittings and filled in the gap with solder. Haven't pressure tested it yet but I'll let you know. Anyone else ran into this???

[vhord]

I have owned a retail hardware for over 30 years. Let me see if I can explain this. Basically, pipe is sized according to its nominal (another word for approx) inside diameter (ID). Tubing is sized by the outside diameter (OD). On copper tubing/pipe you have two different applications - plumbing and refrigeration. Tubing/pipe used in a plumbing application is generally sized according to its ID. Refrigeration applications are sized according to its OD. Therefore if 1/2" is used in a plumbing application it will have a 5/8" OD (1/2" ID) and if it is used in refrigeration it will have a 1/2" OD. This is very confusing with customers. Also if your copper has frozen it will swell the entire length and then it is impossible to determine a fitting that will fit. The OD will vary. The grade of pipe has nothing to do with the size. The heavier grades just have a smaller nominal ID because of the thicker wall. I hope this is clear as mud.

[easyride]

Before ripping all the copper out of my 73 overlander I repaired a few frozen spots,in some of the places it was easier to use a smaller size,slip it inside and silver solder it. The grey stuff that was mentioned is called poly pipe,they started using it with plastic fittings and alum. crimp rings, the plastic fittings broke,they changed to copper and brass fittings then the alum. crimp rings broke.they then went to copper crimp rings and the problems were solved,but after all the lawsuits and the poor ratings they quit making it and came out with pex,fittings look near the same but won`t interchange,for that they make a crimp transition fitting.Then there is cpvc it`s acream colored pipe with glue fittings that hot and cold water can be ran thru,never run hot water thru pvc,you may get away with it for awhile,but it will eventually fail. Now you know why a plumber charges so much ,we must carry pipe and fittings for all that weird pipe out there,Dave

[markdoane]

I've never seen pipe that wasn't threaded, flanged, or welded. Everything else is either tube or conduit. See item #16.

1. All pipe is to be made of a long hole surrounded by metal or plastic
centered around the hole.

2. All pipe is to be hollow throughout the entire length - do not use holes
of different length to the pipe.

3. The ID (Inside Diameter) of all pipe must not exceed the OD (Outside
Diameter) - otherwise the hole will be on the outside.

4. All pipe is to be supplied with nothing in the hole, so that water, steam
or other stuff can be put inside at a later date.

5. All pipe should be supplied without rust; this can be more readily applied
at the job site.
NOTE: Some vendors are now able to supply pre-rusted pipes. If available
in your area, this product is recommended, as it will save a great deal of
time at the job site.

6. All pipe over 500ft (150m) in length should have the words "LONG PIPE"
clearly painted on each side and end, so that the contractor knows it's a
long pipe.

7. Pipe over 2 miles (3.2km) in length must also have the words "LONG PIPE"
painted in the middle, so the contractor will not have to walk the entire
length of the pipe to determine whether or not it is a long pipe or a
short pipe.

8. All pipe over 6ft (1.83m) in diameter must have the words "LARGE PIPE"
painted on it, so the contractor will not mistake it for small pipe.

9. Flanges must be used on all pipe. Flanges must have holes for bolts,
quite separate from the big hole in the middle.

10. When ordering 90 or 30 degree elbows, be sure to specify left-hand or
righ-hand, otherwise you will end up going the wrong way.

11. Be sure to specify to your vendor whether you want level, uphill or
downhill pipe. If you use downhill pipes for going uphill, the water
will flow the wrong way.

12. All couplings should have either right-hand or left-hand threads, but do
not mix the threads otherwise, as the coupling is being screwed on one
pipe, it is being unscrewed fron the other.

13. All pipes shorter than 1/8in (3mm) are very uneconomical in use, requiring many joints. They are generally known as washers.

14. Joints in pipes for piping water must be water-tight. Those in pipes for
compressed air, however, need only be air-tight.

15. Lengths of pipes may be welded or soldered together. This method is not recommended for concrete or earthenware pipes.

16. Other commodities are often confused with pipes. These include: conduit, tube, tunnel and drain. Use only genuine pipes.

17. Scottish Regiments in the Army use Army pipes in unusual ways. These are not approved of in engineering circles.

[Fyrzowt]

Funny, Mark.
Do those pipes have specific right/left handed wrenches as well?

[Not Done]

Vhord, That was very clear and helpful. I think my pipes expanded from freezing which means my project just got a lot more difficult. I think I was happier when I thought the pipe was an odd size.

Easyride, I like copper mostly because I enjoy scorching everything within a 1ft radius of my joints with the torch.

Markdoane, funny. My wife wants to know why I'm laughing...

[crowldawg]

I didn't mean to be confusing .I'm just frustrated trying to replace the plumbing in the Globetrotter.Some of it is plumbers copper ,some is refrigeration copper and all of it was frozen at least once
I don't have the benefit of going to HD its 30 miles away and doesn't always have the fittings to go from plumbers to refrigeration. I have to go to a plumbers supply house and ask for the coreect product otherwise they tell me they have no idea what I'm looking for .
This thread shows I'm not the only guy who is confused
When I finally get it done that will be a "home run". Thanks!

[centennialman]

Thanks for all the great answers everyone!

I have one place where there is a very tiny leak and I want to repair it for just the summer. It's copper pipe and it's in a "t"

I plan on taking all of the cabinetry etc....out of the coach this fall to begin my floor replacement and will replace all the plumbing with PEX at that time.

I have learned a lot by reading all of your responses.....thanks again

[vhord]

Originally Posted by centennialman

I have one place where there is a very tiny leak and I want to repair it for just the summer. It's copper pipe and it's in a "t".

Steve,

I am not a big fan of using temporary fixes but you might get by for the summer by using one of the self adhesive fiberglass reinforced patches. Starco Chemical makes one that they call Peel-N-Patch. I used it to patch a couple of holes in my bathroom counter but they are actually made for patching leaks in pipes.

Product Details
Peel-N-Patch Self Adhesive Repair Patch. Repair any leak, hole or crack in minutes. 3" x 16" UV light activated fiberglass reinforced patch. Adheres to metal, wood, rubber & plastic. Hardens in minutes when exposed to light.

[centennialman]

Thanks Vernon!

That may be just what I need to do

I only want to use this existing plumbing for the summer and then it's all going to be ripped out.