Pex or not to Pex ?

[TouringDan]

Using Pex piping along with crimp rings is a no-brainer. I also agree with Sodbust about not using three-quarter inch Pex. I re plumbed my Tradewind using half inch and 3/8 inch Pex.

[adonh]

Originally Posted by Thomasmg

I want to replace copper with pex. No leaks, but I I want to update and maybe save a few pounds hauling. Advise?

I replaced all of the copper lines in my 1976 31' Sovereign with Pex back in 2001. No problems or leaks since then Here is pointer if you have the center bath like mine. The water line runs from the back corner (drivers side) of the trailer under the bed mounted on the side wall, through the center closet up to the cabinet in the kitchen. Then makes a 90 degree turn to the curb side and runs under the floor over to the kitchen sink area to connect to the kitchen faucet and then back to the shower, bath faucet, toilet and water heater. As it turned out the PO had a leak under the floor section and had cut a hole in the floor to fix it, then replaced the section he cut out. I was able to use the same hole in the floor to run the Pex. But if I were to do it all over again I would avoid the Drivers side all together since there are no water connections on that side. Run the Pex accros the back under the beds and the cabinet between the beds on each side and then up along the curb side. Then you don't need to mess with the section under the floor. Good Luck

[Cross_Winds]

We're in the process of buying a 1971 25' Trade Wind. The plumbing is currently inoperable - what's the average cost to replace the whole plumbing system?

[barts]

Originally Posted by Cross_Winds

We're in the process of buying a 1971 25' Trade Wind. The plumbing is currently inoperable - what's the average cost to replace the whole plumbing system?

Parts or labor ?

I assume you're talking the fresh water side, not the black.

The costs are relatively low in terms of parts - the trailers just aren't that big. However, getting at all the plumbing will require removing most of the interior, which is a big, but doable job. To have someone do it is $$$; these
trailers had plastic bathrooms which take a beating on disassembly atfer 40 years.

I'd seriously get the plumbing working if it doesn't leak, and try camping in the trailer. Figure out what you want to do with it, and how much you're up for doing yourself.

We replaced all the plumbing w/ PEX gradually as we rebuilt our '71 Tradewind completely. Barbie and I are perhaps a bit handier than most. Take a look at our blog below for some ideas. We've had a grand time working on the trailer together...

- Bart

[dennis3751]

We have a '76 Ambassador with rear bath and switching over to Pex did not require removing cabinets but was a little challenging for the tub/shower. All other piping was relatively easy to reach. I started in the back and first took photos of the original layout. Them I started working on the cold water first and then the hot side. I used Shark fittings for most joints which are pricey but can be disconnected if needed.

The bathroom sink faucet in ours can be (barely) reached through the rear hatch. The water heater area can be reached through the panel behind the toilet and water heater cabinet.

The pipes going forward to the kitchen just follow the curbside curve of the trailer and go under the closet and twin bed so access is good in those places. I used plastic anchors for the Pex about every 3 feet and one before and after any valves or fittings for support. I also ran the Pex through old garden hose around the rear curve to prevent chaffing (hopefully). So far all is well 5 years later.

Dennis

[barts]

Originally Posted by dennis3751

We have a '76 Ambassador with rear bath and switching over to Pex did not require removing cabinets but was a little challenging for the tub/shower. All other piping was relatively easy to reach. I started in the back and first took photos of the original layout. Them I started working on the cold water first and then the hot side. I used Shark fittings for most joints which are pricey but can be disconnected if needed.

The bathroom sink faucet in ours can be (barely) reached through the rear hatch. The water heater area can be reached through the panel behind the toilet and water heater cabinet.

The pipes going forward to the kitchen just follow the curbside curve of the trailer and go under the closet and twin bed so access is good in those places. I used plastic anchors for the Pex about every 3 feet and one before and after any valves or fittings for support. I also ran the Pex through old garden hose around the rear curve to prevent chaffing (hopefully). So far all is well 5 years later.

Dennis

We have no rear hatch... the fittings were well hidden in the bathroom.

- Bart

[Cross_Winds]

Thanks for replying guys. We're up in Edmonton, Alberta where it's below freezing mark about 6 months out of the year - lack of winterization is what the current owner thinks did in the plumbing. We hope that we can replace the plumbing ourselves with the help of a couple plumbing friends. We're heading to look through the trailer tomorrow - it's 3 hours from here. They've already told us the plumbing isn't working, so hopefully we'll be able to get a look at it to see what is going on. Any links you can recommend for inspection tips?

[Cross_Winds]

Originally Posted by barts

Parts or labor ?

I assume you're talking the fresh water side, not the black.

The costs are relatively low in terms of parts - the trailers just aren't that big. However, getting at all the plumbing will require removing most of the interior, which is a big, but doable job. To have someone do it is $$$; these
trailers had plastic bathrooms which take a beating on disassembly atfer 40 years.

I'd seriously get the plumbing working if it doesn't leak, and try camping in the trailer. Figure out what you want to do with it, and how much you're up for doing yourself.

We replaced all the plumbing w/ PEX gradually as we rebuilt our '71 Tradewind completely. Barbie and I are perhaps a bit handier than most. Take a look at our blog below for some ideas. We've had a grand time working on the trailer together...

- Bart

Does you're have the rear bathroom? I think they said this one has all the plumbing underneath. Knowing that, you're saying we'll need to gut most of the trailer to replace the plumbing?

[barts]

The black plumbing is under the floor; unless someone has modified the trailer, all the fresh water stuff is above the floor aside from the fresh water tank.

There were a variety of layouts; ours is a rear bath. The copper tubes for the shower went under the shower pan; the bathroom was pop-riveted together polystyrene afaict. The water pipes were also intertwined w/ the furnace ducting along the side of the trailer.

I would NOT replace the plumbing unless it either leaks everywhere, or you have the trailer apart anyway. If the trailer is coming apart, changing out the plumbing is not difficult and costs are reasonable - perhaps two or three hundred bucks in parts.

- Bart