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Old 11-15-2014, 06:50 AM   #1
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Low Point Water Line Drain Valves Froze!

Our trailer is a 2012 International 27' FB. Thursday night the temperature dropped to 17 degrees. We had the furnace running and the faucet was dripping. When it thawed yesterday both low point water line drain valves were leaking. When I tried to open them both broke off at the fitting above the elbow just below the galvanized box. What did I do wrong? We have camped in colder weather with no problem. Anyone replaced these valves?


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Old 11-15-2014, 07:00 AM   #2
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I can not find it but there was a recent thread about replacing the flimsly plastic valve with a brass version. I believe they got the replacement from Out of Doors Mart.
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Old 11-15-2014, 07:03 AM   #3
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My valve is brass and the broken connector appears to be brass.


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Old 11-15-2014, 07:12 AM   #4
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Pic? I have seen a couple of different styles of low point drains on newer units. Discussion might be different depending on which ones you have.
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Old 11-15-2014, 07:18 AM   #5
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There is a similar thread from October "Low point high pressure petcocks" that has the same valve pictured. It does not say what he did to solve the problem.


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Old 11-15-2014, 07:20 AM   #6
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Found this, http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...um-113671.html
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Old 11-15-2014, 07:24 AM   #7
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The above link is about the replacing freshwater tank drain, not the low point drains for the hot and cold water lines.


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Old 11-15-2014, 07:28 AM   #8
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This is why I like these drains over the petcocks. Although they drain slower, the water valve seat is all up inside the pan, rather than outside the tank. You say you've not had issues in colder weather....not sure why that's a difference.

https://www.google.com/search?q=air+...ml%3B600%3B600
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Old 11-15-2014, 07:28 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinTin View Post
The above link is about the replacing freshwater tank drain, not the low point drains for the hot and cold water lines.


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Sorry about that,
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Old 11-15-2014, 07:38 AM   #10
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What is the transition from the elbow up to the water line? That's what I can't wrap my head around. Access behind the tires is terrible. We are fulltime and the site at the SP makes the trailer sit low.


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Old 11-15-2014, 10:20 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwellstream View Post
Our trailer is a 2012 International 27' FB. Thursday night the temperature dropped to 17 degrees. We had the furnace running and the faucet was dripping. When it thawed yesterday both low point water line drain valves were leaking. When I tried to open them both broke off at the fitting above the elbow just below the galvanized box. What did I do wrong? We have camped in colder weather with no problem. Anyone replaced these valves?
It's difficult to break a valve unless it was already cracked. Here's something you might want to look at. Take the broken parts. Look at the broken ends. Are they different colors, one part of the break darker than the rest? Brass that has been exposed to air darkens, and brass not exposed to air is shiny, so at least part of the break will definitely be shiny, but if any part of it is darker, that means it was cracked long enough for some oxidation to occur, and the problem wasn't necessarily caused by the freeze, only discovered because of the freeze.

That doesn't fix the problem, of course, but knowing if it cracked during the freeze or was already cracked would be good to know for the future when you do fix it.
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Old 11-15-2014, 10:52 AM   #12
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It's easy for a brass valve to break in a freeze. My AS is a 2012 28' RB and I had the same problem with one of the two valves. AS replaced it under warranty but it wasn't an easy fix for the Tampa AS dealer - they said the tank had to be pulled to make the fix. It's in an easy place to freeze. I would like to see an advisory with maybe a fix including a styrofoam 'cup' like you would put over a hose bibb in cold weather. Thoughts?
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Old 11-15-2014, 11:22 PM   #13
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Perhaps fabrication of a small styrofoam box with a 5 watt resistor inside for a heat source would keep the replacement valves from freezing. It would be removed when moving or in warmer weather.

I put a 110 Vac outlet in the water works area at the rear end of our Classic so I can plug in a small socket and light bulb. The visible external valves (the water tank drain and the two water lines low point drains) are another issue for me to create a solution for.

The gray and black tanks and valves are supposedly warmed with some hot air from the furnace. While watching the build process at the factory, I did see the "T" in one of the two 3" duct hoses to a 1.5" or 2" flexible hose going through a hole in the floor under the kitchen cabinet above the tank area.
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Old 11-16-2014, 07:05 AM   #14
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we had one break while traveling, called our dealer and he told us to plug it with JB Weld until we got back home. This way we could continue our trip since you won't need the valves until you winterize again.


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Old 11-16-2014, 08:09 AM   #15
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Sometimes it's not only the low temperature reading that matters, but how long it stays that cold. I think if you anticipate temps in the low 20's or below it's good to open all drain valves to have a steady drip during the night, or while the temps remain low.

Meantime, as above try to plug them with something until you can get them replaced.
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Old 11-17-2014, 08:02 AM   #16
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It apparently was caused by the duration of freezing temperatures (we are on a 1600' mountain) and the fact that we did not switch to fresh water tank only. The permanent repair will be delayed until we get to our dealer, and I will plug the two holes with JB Weld. Unfortunately the weather forecast is not good, so we fill plastic jugs for a while.


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Old 11-17-2014, 10:58 AM   #17
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Will JB Weld adhere to a damp freezing brass surface?


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Old 11-18-2014, 03:23 AM   #18
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I had to tap the stub that remained after the valve broke off and insert a bolt. While this could have been a semi-permanent fix I still had it replaced under warranty
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Old 11-18-2014, 05:18 AM   #19
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Both my brass low point drains broke off this past summer while on a trip to Alaska. They were corroded, never frozen....same result they broke off in my hand when I attempted to tighten them.

I used Rectorseal 200 EP epoxy putty. This is a roll/tube you can get at Home Depot. It was easy to apply and help for 4 months until our trip ended and we stopped at Jackson Center. Even with the drains dripping the epoxy cured in about 15 minutes. In my case, the drains broke at the thread and I pushed the epoxy up into the hole as a plug, let it cure about 5 minutes, then applied more.

Rectorseal is used in many marine applications. Beware that there are many JB Weld varieties and I did not have good luck with them.

FYI, my plastic fresh water drain also broke on this trip and Rectorseal saved the day.

Don't know how to do a permanent repair, wish I did as I am sure it will happen again on our journey to Newfoundland next summer.
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Old 11-18-2014, 11:04 AM   #20
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We own a 2013 23FB flying cloud. It has two low point drain areas. One is under the pull out pantry with the plastic shut off valves located in the heated space under the pantry. The other is located near the fresh water tank drain with the brass shut off valves located outside the belly pan next to the fresh water tank drain. Both the OEM brass valves near the fresh water tank failed (leaked) shortly after we bought the AS. Both were subjected to cold conditions (17 deg F) while the system was pressurized. The brass fittings the valves were attached to cracked and the valves fell off into my hand when I was trying to locate the leak. Both fittings had cracked almost 360 deg. When I had the AS dealer repair the system (under warranty) I had them move the shut off valves up into the heated space below the closet and install valves similar to the valves in the pantry area drain lines. I attached four pictures of the modification. #1 new drain lines near fresh water tank drain #2 closet floor removed to show general area #3 valves are located where light is shining below #4 best picture I could get of the shut off valves. The valves are accessed by either reaching down through floor (small hands help) or removing the maintenance plate under the trailer. We have had this modification for a little over a year and have not had any issues with it. Doug
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