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Old 05-24-2005, 08:46 PM   #1
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Leak in belly, by city water inlet...HELP

After de-winterizing my '02 Bambi this week, I noticed after hooking up to city water, a fair amount of leakage through any openings in the belly pan, near the city water inlet. The leak is coming from between the flow valve located after the city water inlet, and where the pipe comes through the wall under the shower (heading curbside inside the storage area, below the storage door). I figure the problem is at or just beyond the water pressure regulator inlet flow valve thingy, because it also leaks when I switch to the water pump (though not as much). I'm guessing this is not an all too uncommon problem, though I couldn't find any threads dedicated to this scenario. I assume I have to remove the rivets and pull that corner section of bellypan, which is made of plastic. It looks like I have to remove the trim to get to the rivets on the top of the panel. Has anyone out here done this job? I'm new to rivetting. What size drill bit and rivets? Any suggestions out there? I know, I know...I'm buying an air compressor this week. Thanks, Roy
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Old 06-02-2005, 07:31 AM   #2
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Well, no replies last time so I'll run it up the flagpole one more time.
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Old 06-02-2005, 09:25 AM   #3
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I usually use a 1/4'' bit to drill the heads off the rivets. Then you can remove the piece that's riveted in place and many times the remainder of the rivet will just fall off; kind of like taking the head off of a screw or nail. If necessary, use the proper size bit to drill the remainder out. (you can visually match the size -- I think it's usually 1/8"?). Rivets and rivet guns are readily available at most hardware stores.

Hope this helps!
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Old 06-02-2005, 12:02 PM   #4
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I don't know your year/model, so my comments may not be of value to you.

I am working a '66 Safari. The city water inlet of my unit had a rubber seal in it, much like a garden hose. If your system is like this, I would start there. On my Gem you can completely remove the water connection device without involving the floor or belly skin.

If water was not drained from this prior to winter, it is possible freezing has cracked the metal housing.
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Old 06-02-2005, 12:07 PM   #5
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One other thing . . . if the city water inlet section of your water system was not included in your winterizing routine , you may have to replace that section of line . . .
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Old 06-02-2005, 03:24 PM   #6
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Well, you can see the city water connection inside plumbing and associated areas from behind the rear vanity. Open up the doors, clear the shelves and take a peek. Place you hand in the opening, down the interior wall as far as your hand/arm can go and see if you can feel where the issue is...maybe even see it.
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Old 06-02-2005, 06:12 PM   #7
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I suspect you had water remaining in the pipe assembly connecting to the pressure regulator. If you had freezing weather this could easily have done the damage. This weekend when I pressurized my system I experienced a similar failure in my feed line to my toilet. Seems that the flexible line from a copper water pipe to the toilet had water remaining after I winterized. Even though I blew out the pipes with air for over 30 minutes, I could not clear the water from this low point. After you fix your problem you might wish to examine the piping for any low points that do not drain well and correct these.
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Old 06-02-2005, 11:51 PM   #8
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Thanks for the replies. I'll take a closer look tomorrow. - Roy
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Old 06-03-2005, 12:06 AM   #9
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Looks like a good thread to bring up this water leak finding method.

Instead of pressurizing the system with water, make an adaptor to your air compressor. Just hook the air right to the city water inlet.
This will allow you to locate the leak without getting the floor all wet. It also helps in finding the leak by listening to the lines or useing soapy water from a brush.
If you don't have a compressor it gives you a good excuse to get one for your winter blowout.
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Old 06-03-2005, 06:19 AM   #10
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I rarely use the city water connection, but maybe once or twice a season, and ususally near the beginning or middle of the season (so far). It's a great point to blow out the lines. Looking at my city water connection from the inside, it looks to me once it pokes in, it goes straight down and perhaps when I winterized in the past with just plain antifreeze, I was just lucky.
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Old 06-03-2005, 10:27 AM   #11
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I had read on another post that an effective way to winterize the section just after the city water inlet (after blowing out the lines) is to put antifreeze in a (short) hose and, with the compressor, blow it into the city water inlet. Probably best to do this before bringing antifreeze into the system via the water pump, so as not to blow out all the antifreeze.



PS: I just bought a Porter-Cable compressor yesterday (it's about time).
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Old 06-06-2009, 01:27 PM   #12
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I just dug this thread up because I seem to have the same problem on my 1990 Excella when I hook to city water. I can follow the pipes in and can find no leaking inside nor do I have a wet floor anywhere. Just drips out of belly pan below the inlet, but where inlet goes thru the skin, it is perfectly dry. How was this one fixed?
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Old 06-06-2009, 01:44 PM   #13
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On my 92 Excella, my city water inlet started leaking and I found that because of the way that it is made (two pieces - one installs from the outside and the other one from the inside with the actual parting plane winding up in between the inner and outer skins) that the water was leaking inside my walls, draining through the insulation down to the bottom where it thoroughly soaked the floor without me able to even see it because of the carpet and protective plastic overlay in the storage compartment. It ruined my OSB floor in that area before I even noticed it dripping outside.
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Old 06-06-2009, 03:21 PM   #14
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Crusty, you are exactly right. I looked a little closer where it was coming thru the wall and there was a drip coming in. It was flooding between the walls and that is why I had water coming out all over the belly pan where it could find an exit. I don't think there is any damage because I caught it early. How did you replace and did you use another part like the one that went bad. Mine looks like there are 4 screws on the outside and 4 on the inside.
Once I get that fixed, I'll have to find out why my pump is running and no water is coming out. I had water when I filled up the fresh the first time, but now I don't.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks, for your reply.
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Old 06-06-2009, 05:17 PM   #15
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I haven't replaced mine yet. I took it apart, inspected everything and cleaned all of the internal components really well and reassembled it with some lube on the seal and it's been working drip free since (months).

I had to cut up the carpet and protective overlay to find out that my floor was soaked and punky, so take a good close look to make sure. If the wood's wet try to get a small space heater into the area to dry it out as soon as you can.

Here's a link to the original thread that I posted when it happened.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...oor-38774.html

Good luck.
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Old 06-06-2009, 07:04 PM   #16
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Thanks Crusty, I'll take it apart tomorrow and look below the carpet for damage. Do you have to take the inside and outside off?
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Old 06-06-2009, 08:13 PM   #17
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I did take both pieces off but (if I remember right) I think I could have done it just by removing the inside piece.
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Old 06-06-2009, 08:51 PM   #18
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In tracking down a similar leak, I strongly suspect the city water inlet valve is leaking. The problem is that I am finding it VERY difficult to access from the inside of the AS. There is a small access panel under the kitchen sink that gives access to the general area, but I will probably have to cut a much larger access hole to get my hands/tools in there. I was finally able to get a general view of the area by sticking my digital camera in the opening and snapping away. I've attached a pic showing some evidence of a leak. The tubing leading off into the insulation to the right leads to the city water inlet. (Note:the the floor appears to be plywood, not OSB, as many claim my year and model AS have.)
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Old 06-07-2009, 03:09 PM   #19
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Think I have it fixed, but do I trust it?

I removed the inner and outer piece after unhooking from the water line. Then I took everything apart and clean it and inspected for damage. Not seeing any, I hooked it back to the hose and with the water turned on, still had leaking. I went to Autozone and bought a new 0-ring and installed it. To test it I hooked it up and let it sit for a while to make sure it was not leaking. It looked good so I put it back in the AS and still can not see any drips. Since I can not see what is between the walls, I think I am going to the Airstream dealer and see if they have a replacement part. I sure hope they have come up with something that does not have a hidden joint that can leak with no way of really telling you have one. This part has 2 hidden joints. Amazing that they would do this.
I do not know what a new part would cost but it has to be a lot less than replacing the floor.
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Old 05-11-2010, 11:10 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crusty View Post
On my 92 Excella, my city water inlet started leaking and I found that because of the way that it is made (two pieces - one installs from the outside and the other one from the inside with the actual parting plane winding up in between the inner and outer skins) that the water was leaking inside my walls, draining through the insulation down to the bottom where it thoroughly soaked the floor without me able to even see it because of the carpet and protective plastic overlay in the storage compartment. It ruined my OSB floor in that area before I even noticed it dripping outside.
This is almost exactly what I found this weekend on my '90 Excella. I went to step into bed, and my feet got wet. The water is leaking within the wall. I believe the water inlet that we have is exactly the same. There are pictures on a post #19 above (AirHeadsRus) who rebuilt the inlet. I wonder how that is holding up. I will post some pics tonight, and luckily I think I caught it before the OSB is ruined. I removed the carpet, sprayed the area with bleach, and I put in a Damp-Rid kit. My water inlet on the inside is in the very rear of the coach, under/in the night stand street side. So the carpet I have pulled is no visible unless the night stand door is open.

Now the question; has anyone ordered a new inlet for a '90 something? Does Inland RV or another source have a new inlet that fits the old opening?
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