Help, drip drip leak behind wall at city water inlet

[Arnoldjeff]

Have a 2014 19’ Bambi/Flying Cloud that I bought new. Got to my destination, set up, and turned on the water at the campsite. First thing I noticed was how intense the pressure was. Later happened to be inside the AS and had the cabinet under bathroom sink opened and saw the periodic dripping behind the wall through the lower hole - Looks like it’s coming from behind the upper hole, which I believe is the city water connection from the outside. I have since stuffed towels in the access holes as much as I could to try to absorb the drip drip that’s happening since I’m on vacation… of course! I disconnected the city water hose and have been filling the freshwater tank and running off of that thinking that would eliminate the drip from the city water connection, but it hasn’t…Not sure why. I have a microfiber bath towel stuck in the bottom hole which has the largest space to stick a towel in. I check it twice a day and the moisture is moving down the towel. Not sure what else to do until I can get to the mothership, and who knows when that will be with winter coming. I’m planning to call them this week. Major disappointment for such a stupid mistake of not checking the water pressure coming from the Campground. Anyone else experienced this type of leak? I’m wondering how long it was dripping before I saw it, and if there’s any damage behind the wall that I need to have addressed. Also not sure how they will fix the water inlet – I’m guessing they do it from the inside under the cabinet, but I’m not sure how you could possibly work under there given the tight conditions. Any suggestions for me to finish this trip while causing least damage is appreciated.

[Arnoldjeff]

Here’s a photo…

[SSquared]

Airstream has used the same ShurFlo fresh water inlet for many years, but I don't know if they still used it in 2019.

I've had a leak like that on my 2013, and there are a couple of possible fixes that are not too complicated. The following is what I have learned about the ShurFlo and the 2013-era plumbing.

First, one point that will help you understand your plumbing. When you are connected to city water, water comes through the inlet (which is also a pressure regulator, btw) and pressurizes your fresh water system. When you used the pump instead, the pump pressurizes the system, including the line that connects your inlet to the rest of the system. Water tries to flow backwards on that line. There is no "backflow preventer" or any such thing that keeps pump water from reaching the inlet--there is no need for one. The inlet fixture does prevent water from leaking out the inlet connector. But if the inlet fixture develops a leak, the water pressure provided by the pump will make the leak happen.

Anyway, to fix a ShurFlo.

First, can you see the back of the fixture? Can you see four screws on the back of it? Can you get a screwdriver in there? If so, snug down the screws. Sometimes, that is all it takes. Oh, and on my 25FB, access to the fixture from the inside is blocked by a panel at the back of my closet. The panel is held in by seven screws on the back side where they cannot be seen, but they can be removed by feel. So if access is a problem, consider carefully what can be moved to make it easier.

Still can't get at those screws? Can you reach your hand in and unscrew the pipe/hose on the back of the fixture? Do that, then go outside, unscrew the screws on the outside of the fixture, and pull it out. Now you can tighten the screws on the back, and re-install it.

If you can't reach the pipe/hose connection from inside, you can still go outside, remove the screws outside, and gently pull the fixture out. There is often enough slack in the plumbing that you can pull enough length to allow you to unscrew the pipe/hose. Then you can snug down those screws on the back.

Of course, sometimes it is not enough to tighten down the screws on the back. Then you have to buy a replacement. I think I paid around forty bucks. That's cheaper than towing the trailer to the dealer and back.

Good luck.

[Foiled Again]

Replacing the Sureflo is not a big deal. It can be done from the outside. 4 screws and yank the thing out until you see the hand tightenable connection to the flex hose. Replacing the whole thing vs tightening up the loose screws on the pressure regulator? Eh? More effort than it is worth, especially if it has gotten a lot of calcium deposits built up. An exterior regulator is needed if the compound has really high water pressure. I learned that when a supply hose exploded. I check now, and if the pressure is reasonable, I put it away so that I don't end up with a trickle of really low pressure water.

Is there really less work and expense in a trailer vs. a home? Well, if you trade in a trailer just as everything starts to need serious maintenance? [emoji849] it may be a toss up. Whimsical rather than serious observation.

[gypsydad]

Too bad you weren't at Alumalina this week in NC! John covered this item with several experiences and how to troubleshoot/repair so you don't get a more severe water damage problem. Getting a replacement filler fixture if thats the issue, is not too difficult; many RV places carry that city water inlet fixture. Taking the screws out and gently pulling out to see where the leak is and fixing is not too difficult either...I did this one year with my new 2017 28' and ended up replacing the entire fixture as the brass was leaking behind the faceplate. You can also go to the inside and find where the hoses feed in and see if you can replace or re-tighten clamps on the pex. One thing for sure, you don't want the water leaking down the inside between outer and inner skins...the wood composite floor on the older AS's will absorb and become spongy...not good. Good luck!

[banderabob]

Had that with our 2016. Replace the SureFlo.

[BillfromWI]

I agree with Foiled Again. It's easy to replace.

Here it is on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-183-0...178216&sr=8-11

[GammaDog]

I can’t help with your leak, but I can say that you shouldn’t blame yourself. Stuff breaks all the time when you bounce and rattle your house around the country. In many hundreds of nights camping at hundreds of parks and outposts I have never once checked the water pressure at a campground spigot. I declare myself the most stupidest!

Now I’ve cursed my city water hookup, haven’t l?

[greenflag]

We have a Shureflo. We still use a pressure regulator at the hose bib. Pressure regulators do go bad.

[Projet2907]

Originally Posted by Arnoldjeff

Here’s a photo…Attachment 406912

I Had leaks at the same place, it made the floor wavy from slowly dripping. IThe Airstream was brand new. t was leaking from the 90-degree swivel fitting. Both the upper and lower ones. I replaced the upper one and Just tightened the lower one. I often monitor these two as they should not be swivel in the first place but crimped.

[Steamy1]

I had a slow dripping leak under the sink around the joint of the cold water feed to the kitchen faucet. I ended up purchasing a PEX Pipe Copper Ring Crimping tool and used the 1/2" fitting to re-crimp the fitting. This stopped the leak. I also used the included GO/NO-GO gauge to check all of the other crimps that I could reach, and they all required re-crimping to bring them in compliance with the gauge specs.

I am now on a mission to check all of the crimped fittings and tighten up.

The tool was the IWISS Copper Crimping tool kit from Amazon. There may be others out there but this worked for me.

[muffinsam]

Leaks only when hot water on?
Help

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by muffinsam

Leaks only when hot water on?

Help

A bit more info? Area that you see leak etc. also trailer model.

[muffinsam]

Drips out under edge of right rear wheel wheel only when hot water on? Had rv Mechanic look at it. Tightened all water couplings in and around water inlet,, while in closet very hard to get at.
Also removed part on water heater and installed a lower hot water thermostat.
I have water pressure valve on city water set at 40 psi.

[muffinsam]

Sounds like I need to get into closet, turn on hot water and try to observe where its leaking. Sounds like the crimping tool might work if I can get my hands in there to work?
Tks for good advice?

[muffinsam]

Sorry 2012 25FB serenity.

[JMynes]

Originally Posted by muffinsam

Leaks only when hot water on?
Help

The water heater has lost it’s air pocket. The heating water has no room to expand, and is finding the weakest connection to leak out of.
When I had this issue it was dripping behind the shower control on the back side of the shower enclosure.
The cure is to turn off your water heater and water pump, disconnect city water, and open a hot faucet to release pressure. Close the faucet.
Now remove the hot water tank drain plug. CAREFUL! IT COULD BE HOT! Carefully open the temp/pressure release valve to break the vacuum in the tank.
Drain a couple of gallons and replace the plug, shut the t/p valve. You don’t have to drain the tank completely.
Turn on your water pump or city water to repressurize the system. The hot water tank will fill to the correct level and the air pocket in the tank will be restored.
Turn on your water heater. Listen for no dripping.
I have to do this pretty frequently. I don’t know why the air pocket disappears, but once restored, life is good.

[sb55]

Is that the fresh water inlet? They fail. (And it had nothing to do with hot water.)
It took me a while to figure out what was happening. The problem is is also leaks between the walls and wets the insulation. You may have to remove it to get to the 4 screws that hold it together. Sometimes a 1/4 turn on each screw will stop the leak.
Otherwise, take it apart to clean and reset the gasket with a little plumbers silicone grease. There are threads on this.

[delrossa]

Regulator is leaking. Easy to install a new one. When the water is cold and heated it expands and causes the regulator to leak.
Install a accumulator to act as an expansion tank.
Most homes have them them near their hot water tank.
Shurflo makes one and it’s relatively easy to install.

[SSquared]

On my 2013 25FB you can get good access to the city water inlet fixture by disassembling two boards at the back of the closet.
The top board is held on by two exposed screws. Easy-peasy.

The board that forms the vertical back of the closet (about one foot high) is harder. There are seven screws set in at an angle, that you have to access from behind. Then there are three wooden dowels that go down into the closet floor board. Those are glued, and there was also glue between the two boards. Once I removed the screws, I wiggled the board until it came loose. One dowel broke.

I have since removed and replaced the board a couple of times. I think the seven screws are plenty to hold it in place without the glue or dowels.