Freshwater tank filled up while connected to city water

[Native143]

How can this happen? I have the city water connection from the faucet to the airstream connected at the right spot. I just returned to my camper to find water running out of the freshwater tank overflow. Checked the system status and my barely full tank is now full. Help please as I am on the road.

[Tn Traveler]

Bad or stuck check valve?

[ijustlee]

The check valve must be stuck or have a little piece of grit stuck in it, or just not be a very good valve. Follow the pipes and see if there is a manual shut off valve you could use or if running the pump will flow water back through the check valve and flush any grit out of the seat. Some check valves can be taken apart to look at the seat and I test them by blowing through them with my mouth. Any air leaks through when I blow, they are not working. Cheap to buy new ones if bad.

[jcanavera]

Definitely a check valve. This happened to my new Classic after I had it about 3 months. It wasn't as bad as overflowing but my tank level monitor noted I had a significant amount of water in the fresh water tank and I know it was empty when I hooked up. Thankfully it was a slow leak into the tank. The dealer replaced the pump and all was well.

Jack

[OTRA15]

If you disconnect the city water supply hose, and run the pump to take water from the water tank, you might clear out the check valve. You could do this cycle a few times, going back and forth from city to tank water, to further encourage the check valve to release any sediment stuck in it.

Keeping fresh water in the tank, and using the pump often, is a good insurance policy IMO.

All Airstream systems benefit from exercise . . .

Worth a try at least.

[OTRA15]

PS -- one should not leave the trailer unattended with the city water hose bib turned on, for reasons just like this. If a pipe cracks, worse damage can occur during one's absence. Don't ask how I know this . . .



PS2 -- Sediment in the check valve can only get there from impure fresh water in the tank, which usually results from not using a particulate filter inline in the hose used to fill the tank, especially at campgrounds with well water. Even city water can have sediment in it and still be considered healthy. When they work on the water supply underground lines, all kinds of sediment and grit can get into the pipes. Also the pressure on -- pressure off -- nature of the work tends to loosen particulate matter inside the water mains producing cloudy water for a while. Safe to drink maybe, but it can cause havoc with check valves etc..

Originally Posted by Native143

How can this happen? I have the city water connection from the faucet to the airstream connected at the right spot. I just returned to my camper to find water running out of the freshwater tank overflow. Checked the system status and my barely full tank is now full. Help please as I am on the road.

[Native143]

Thank you everyone. As checking all the valves myself, at this point, is new to me, I liked all your suggestions. Called Airstream and they miraculously answered my call. Most likely stuck overflow/ check valve. Still under warranty will replace water pump. I'll try the on off approach too to see if that works. And good hint about turn off city water when not home. ��

[Sbb]

I'm with OTRA15 on hose. Especially if you accidently hook up to black tank flush inlet and fill that tank up......I discovered mistake just as things were thinking of getting messy!

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

If you disconnect the city water supply hose, and run the pump to take water from the water tank, you might clear out the check valve. You could do this cycle a few times, going back and forth from city to tank water, to further encourage the check valve to release any sediment stuck in it.

Keeping fresh water in the tank, and using the pump often, is a good insurance policy IMO.

All Airstream systems benefit from exercise . . .

Worth a try at least.

Peter since we have the same unit, if you know, is the check valve outboard of the pump or elsewhere? I remember the strainer at the pump and cleaning it (no debris) at winterization, but didn't notice the CV

Bob

[OTRA15]

I am not sure Bob, the check valve may be part of the filter assembly or the pump, but I am not going to remove that large drawer under the oven to check. And I know you understand! There may also be one inline between the filter and the tank, which might be visible in the rear storage area? Will look next time I am back there.

BTW I have not installed that little marine slide bolt to retain the large drawer in its closed position, and the recent trip involved some side-to-side curves which would have challenged the OEM drawer slide detente/keep-closed function. Did you put your keep-closed system in place when you went to Orca Island?

Peter

[Minipad]

There really isn't a check valve in your system that will stop the flow. The pump itself actually has four valves. Dirt may be your problem, and running the pump off and on for a while will likely solve the problem if that is the case. If the valves are themselves bad, you can either replace the pump or order a valve rebuild kit. The kit is pricey and hard to justify over the price of a new pump. If you decide to rebuild, be careful not to turn the screw on the very end of your pump (by the water lines.) This screw will adjust the pressure switch. If you do find a pressure problem after the rebuild, get a gauge to put in the outboard line and rest the pressure.

[tjdonahoe]

Might try running the pump after city water is shut off and the city pressure is down, might clean it self out if not replace the pump....

[John&Vicki]

Kind of apples and oranges as I have an older trailer (1990). But it happened to me also. I was connected to city water, check valve failed, and fresh water tank overflowed and ruptured the fresh water tank inlet hose. I had an Airstream dealer fix it and disable the auto-fill "feature".

I'm not a big fan of automatic stuff. (I actually have the domain seekinganalog.com, after a career in high tech. Becoming a luddite in my old age.)

John

[MelGoddard]

I use a Camco water filter in my City water inlet hose, and have a shut-off valve just downstream of it. I also have a 'reminder sign' on my door, telling me to shut off the water when I leave for a long time.
So far, no troubles.

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by MelGoddard

I use a Camco water filter in my City water inlet hose, and have a shut-off valve just downstream of it. I also have a 'reminder sign' on my door, telling me to shut off the water when I leave for a long time.
So far, no troubles.

As one who sometimes experiences a senior moment, I like the visual back-up idea Thx!

bob

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

I am not sure Bob, the check valve may be part of the filter assembly or the pump, but I am not going to remove that large drawer under the oven to check. And I know you understand! There may also be one inline between the filter and the tank, which might be visible in the rear storage area? Will look next time I am back there.

BTW I have not installed that little marine slide bolt to retain the large drawer in its closed position, and the recent trip involved some side-to-side curves which would have challenged the OEM drawer slide detente/keep-closed function. Did you put your keep-closed system in place when you went to Orca Island?

Peter

Funny you should ask as I've been thinking about it lately and maybe dropping by a hardware supplier to look for a cabinet lock that has a long throw to accommodate the drawer fascia.

I did use the angled bar on the trip and had no problems. I spaced it on the Orcas to Anacortes leg but all was fine. We bought a new (lighter weight) P&P set that really fits the drawer and keeps things from sliding around, whis I think was part of the problem.

Also I suspect that this all started when I caught the corner of a curb as we have a very tight turnaround at the end of our street and it goosed that side of the trailer. We also had heavier P & P's then that moved around a bit.

Having said that I still want to figure out a better way to secure the drawer. Your latch, even thought it slides into the thin drawer fascia, I suspect will be a good solution. I'll loop back after I explore the lock set. The angled adjustable shower rod, while functional is a bit of a Rube Goldberg visual.

Bob

[Acheron2010]

This just happened to me, so of course I logged on to find the answers here. This forum is such a great resource - thank you. Turned off city water, and will use the pump.