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retirenow · 06-14-2020, 02:31 PM

I have a 2014 23RB Flying Cloud. It is new to me, bought it last year. When filling it with water this year, there was a small drip from the metal cover that goes around the tank. Uh oh. Anyway, I drove it up on some planks so I could get under it and I removed the small hatch cover. From what I can see, there is a crack in the nipple /fitting, not the tank, that goes to the tank drain valve. I can press up on the fitting and get it to leak allot more, and there is crack that goes around about 20-30 % The fitting does not look like the same material as the tank. Is there any way to repair this crack? I do not want to have to replace the tank. Thanks!!!!

obytheway · 06-14-2020, 03:21 PM

After two repairs on warranty, that both failed, I just removed the drain and plugged the threaded tank opening with a threaded plug. It is a common item you can get at the hardware store.

There is a clear 2 inch approx. clear plastic hose between the tank and the valve attached to the sheet metal enclosure. I guess vibration was too much on mine and it cracked, 3 times.

The area around that part of the tank is surrounded in styrofoam, but the tank cap was exposed so I could reach it. Not sure if dealer may have cleared some of the foam away for their repair. Anyway, I wrapped the plug in plumbers tape and sealed it shut.

Someday I will get back in their with more robust parts and reinstall the drain. For now I don't have to worry about getting to my campsite and finding I left all my water on the highway like the last three times.

One thought I had to fix it was to not fasten the drain valve with screws to the outside sheet metal. Instead run the hose out the same hole but allow it to free float, possibly relieving the stress on the hose. A stiff enough hose and some type of protection from the sheet metal edge and I think I will be good. Hope that helps.

retirenow · 06-14-2020, 05:35 PM

Thanks, not sure if that will work. The actual threaded fitting that is on the tank has a crack. But, maybe worth a try...if the plug would go in far enough.....if might seal the crack. Everything I have read seems to indicate that "glue" would not stick. Boy, and it is sure a small opening to work with.

PKI · 06-14-2020, 06:10 PM

That sounds like you need a new tank. There is a valve replacement thread that describes that operation and I believe there is a post on replacing the tank. Thought it was in the 23D thread. Not fun, but doable. Good luck with the repair. Pat

BayouBiker · 06-14-2020, 07:18 PM

Polyethelyne can be repaired by purchasing a stick of poly and melting (welding) it into the crack area. if its on the threaded portion that will be harder, you could by a nipple and practice before you start the job to gauge if you are likely to be successful. Since it is a tight fit and there is Styrofoam insulation you will likely have to remove the tank anyway so the 200 for a new tank may be an option you'd prefer. Lots of videos and sites show how to repair cracks.

dbj216 · 06-14-2020, 07:43 PM

And, they now make polyethylene epoxy that will stick and repair our tanks. It is a marine product I believe. We had a "suspect" spin weld that we didn't want to develop into a leak, so we applied some of this epoxy in the crack. It held quite good.

I recommend you research repairing polyethylene tanks and see what you can find. Here is one:

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-...iABEgLKsvD_BwE

Yep, welding a poly tank is the standard and traditional method. It would be difficult in the tight confines you have in your situation.

David

retirenow · 06-14-2020, 07:48 PM

Thanks for all the info!

Wesair · 06-14-2020, 07:49 PM

Last year I replaced my freshwater tank. The leak was at the base of the fitting where the water hose exits the tank and runs to the water pump. I'm not sure if you have the same problem but here is the link of comments and pictures. Good luck. https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...nk-199718.html

retirenow · 06-15-2020, 05:57 AM

In case I need to get a new tank, what is the best place to source them? I did a quick internet search and it was not very helpful. Thanks!

lsbrodsky · 06-15-2020, 06:11 AM

IMHO, the best place is from an Airstream dealer. Too many models to risk trying to outsource this. I had to have mine replaced for the same reason a few years ago and even the dealer got the wrong tank, the first time.

Larry

GammaDog · 06-15-2020, 09:32 AM

I had a similar issue but at the point where the threaded fitting for the pump feed line outlet was spun into the tank. I replaced my tank. If you can reach the leak and try things noted above, I’d try it. I didn’t get pointers to products like folks are offering you and I couldn’t reach my leak anyway. The tank arrangements are different in the 2014 25 FB vs RB.

For parts, I’d call John Thatcher and his team at Colonial Airstream in NJ. I got my tank from him. I think I paid $250 to $300 two years ago. It shipped direct from the AS factory.

69SoulShine · 06-15-2020, 11:36 AM

I used JB water weld, Never leaked again. Sounds like ours was crack about the same as yours. Good luck.

retirenow · 06-15-2020, 07:08 PM

Thanks for all the replies. You have all been very helpful. I think I will try the JB Water Weld and see what happens. Worst case, still leaks and spring for a new tank.

Hikingsolo · 06-15-2020, 07:22 PM

I used 3M E6000 to repair a leak in mine. I also used a heavy Teflon paste to take up room in the very loose recessed plug (an 18mm bolt head served as the Allen wrench needed to remove and reinstall the plug).

bibbs · 06-16-2020, 01:21 PM

If you do remove the tank, a plastics shop can easily re weld a replacement fitting,

retirenow · 06-17-2020, 05:31 AM

Update...so I drove the trailer up on a ramp on one sire to get some room underneath. Took the access plate off, and the strap that covered part of the opening. After cleaning real well and sanding the area with 60 grit, it was obvious where the issue was. Right where the flange came out of the tank, there was a crack, about 30 % of the way around, on the bottom. So I took the JB Water Weld and made a good fillet around the entire fitting (with just a few swear words). I will let it sit for a couple of days and refill. If it does not leak, I will take it on the road to bump it around some to see if it still holds.

I am not sure how this crack happened, but one odd thing was a bolt holding that strap in place, the front one, was stripped out. The strap was loose. I took a next size bigger bolt, ground it to a point so it would start in the smaller hole, and use it to cut its own threads. Seemed to work. Could this loose strap be the cause of the fitting coming loose at the tank?

If it still leaks, I will take it to the dealer. No way do I want to drop that tank.

lsbrodsky · 06-17-2020, 05:43 AM

Not clear to me where your crack is actually located, but my cracked fitting was a direct result of Airstream improperly installing the fitting into the plastic tank. It was simply a failure waiting to happen. Oh, I agree about dropping the tank. I took it to my dealer...11 weeks for the repair because I had to wait in line, then the tank they thought they would use was not the right one, of course, so I had to wait for Airstream to get them one.
Larry

BayouBiker · 06-17-2020, 05:50 AM

I don't understand your description of the strap, what it is holding, or where it was fastened. Can you describe it more completely?

retirenow · 06-17-2020, 07:32 AM

It was one of the main straps that hold the tank / metal pan to the bottom of the trailer. I did not count, but there are probably 3-4 of them. It blocked the hatch opening to get to the fittings. Removing it gave me much more access.