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Old 09-17-2020, 09:11 PM   #1
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Fresh water tank drain valve protection?

2016 International 25 FB

So we're on the road in Teton NP. Gros Ventre was packed and with a lot of ASs.

Talked with one owner with a 2004 Flying Cloud RB.
He noted that while traveling his fresh water tank drain valve had been broken off. No doubt from road debris being kicked up.

He was planning on replacing valve with a brass unit when he got home.

My question, since this is no doubt a common problem,
Is there some fix/repair/add-on to protect the AS valve as it is (not broken yet) rather than replacing the valve itself?
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Old 09-17-2020, 09:18 PM   #2
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kbmwrs, I understand. My '19 FC has the same issue, only about 5" clearance and it looks like an issue waiting to happen. I haven't come up with any good ideas yet but I'm following this thread...
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Old 09-18-2020, 04:11 AM   #3
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Here’s what I did w20000 + miles 👍
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Old 09-18-2020, 04:38 AM   #4
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I used a 1/4" ball valve on an aftermarket base. (support a USMC DAV)

Bob
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Old 09-18-2020, 07:56 AM   #5
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Dragline, thanks for the suggestion. That looks doable.

Mr.Cross....is there any problem removing the original? How did you do this?
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Old 09-18-2020, 11:06 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
I used a 1/4" ball valve on an aftermarket base. (support a USMC DAV)

Bob
🇺🇸
This looks like a great upgrade. Unfortunately, the seller's eBay store is currently "Closed for Vacation". I'll have to check back later.
Any tips on how you were able to remove the old valve, access the tubing, etc.? Did you use a clamp on the tubing? Was there enough length to pull it out and access it? Thank you.
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Old 09-18-2020, 12:40 PM   #7
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My drain valve sheered off on Top of The World Highway in The Yukon. Fortunately got a replacement and spare in Whitehorse at Fireweed RV Services at a very reasonable price. When I got home I made a shield out of sheet metal that protects the plastic valve and have not had a problem since.

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Old 09-18-2020, 01:12 PM   #8
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I was not able to replace it myself because of tubing that is located inside the metal compartment. I had the service install a metal “shield” on the front side of the replacement. Pic is from between the tires looking forward.
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Old 09-18-2020, 01:13 PM   #9
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One of these days I’ll get the orientation figured out......upside down!
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Old 09-18-2020, 01:25 PM   #10
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My FW tank drain replacement >
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...nk-153518.html
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Old 09-18-2020, 05:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoagie View Post
This looks like a great upgrade. Unfortunately, the seller's eBay store is currently "Closed for Vacation". I'll have to check back later.
Any tips on how you were able to remove the old valve, access the tubing, etc.? Did you use a clamp on the tubing? Was there enough length to pull it out and access it? Thank you.
It is a small area but I was able to do it thru the access plate.
Use a quality stainless worm clamp an install it so you can tighten with a 1/4" drive socket. The hose was crimped badly and I had to shorten and straighten it.

Bob
🇺🇸

Notice the street side is off the ground...I was winterizing and had drained the tank the day before when it was on the ground.
The valve was still open when I jacked it up. It drained for another 45min.
Lesson...when winterizing drain while tilted.

Bob
🇺🇸
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Old 09-30-2020, 10:37 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
I used a 1/4" ball valve on an aftermarket base. (support a USMC DAV)

Bob
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Looks like a great way to go. To make sure I order the right one is the tube inside 3/8” or 1/2”?
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Old 09-30-2020, 08:55 PM   #13
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Petcock

The by far easiest way to fix, if it is only the petcock portion (the part you twist), is to pop off the petcock in an upward pop and replace with new. Leave the valve body as is if OK.
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Old 09-30-2020, 08:59 PM   #14
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The by far easiest way to fix, if it is only the petcock portion (the part you twist), is to pop off the petcock in an upward pop and replace with new. Leave the valve body as is if OK.


???
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Old 10-01-2020, 07:51 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daleyocum View Post
Looks like a great way to go. To make sure I order the right one is the tube inside 3/8” or 1/2”?
I don't believe they're actually is an 'option'.
I got ours about 8yrs ago, I don't recall seeing the 3/8 or 1/2 in the description.
I believe it will work on both.
I would contact the seller to confirm.👍

Bob
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Old 10-02-2020, 12:46 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
I don't believe they're actually is an 'option'.
I got ours about 8yrs ago, I don't recall seeing the 3/8 or 1/2 in the description.
I believe it will work on both.
I would contact the seller to confirm.👍

Bob
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They have both sizes now. I’ll see if the vendor knows.
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Old 10-02-2020, 04:33 PM   #17
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Fresh water low point drain

For what it is worth, I was winterizing our 2015 27" FB International for the first time this week. The plastic low point valve for the fresh water tank essentially disintegrated top and bottom when I went to open it up. I ended up coming up with an upgrade as this valve seems incredible cheap to be under the trailer. Once I removed the cover plate next to the valve, discovered it was attached with about 5 inches of flexible vinyl hose back to 1/2 Pex tubing. I was able too cut the vinyl tubing off, replace with a section of Pex pipe that I crimped on and then attached a Home Depot brass valve fitting.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-1...1234/305454364.

The cheap plastic valve was about $6.00 and this was $10.00.

I needed to modify the entry point a bit in the metal mounting plate to accommodate the Pex crimp bump at the valve, but the valve screwed into the metal mounting plate just fine.
It was a bit of a hassle to work under the trailer to fix this, but I think the result will work fine and I hope I never have to do it again.

Oh, the mess under the trailer is anti freeze. Left open a low point valve on the water heater when filling the system. Still learning! I appreciate the ideas I have found on this forum.

Jon
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Old 10-03-2020, 06:00 AM   #18
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That’s a nice solution. Why did you cut off the vinyl tube? Would it have worked to just put that vinyl tube over the barbs on your new valve and use a stainless hose clamp to keep it there?
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Old 10-03-2020, 01:36 PM   #19
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Old 10-03-2020, 03:54 PM   #20
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Thats a good question. I think sometimes I think I want to make things harder! Mostly, I was concerned about the integrity of the connection between PEX barbs to vinyl tubing. The barbs used for each are different. Airstream must have been concerned about this as well since they used some kind of putty/glue substance on the PEX barbs to vinyl connection with the stainless clamp underneath. I could have done the same between the valve(PEX barbs) and the vinyl tube but just decide to go PEX to PEX with the crimps for security sake. I had no desire to crawl back under there again if the joint failed. Maybe I was being too cautious.

Jon
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