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Old 07-07-2011, 09:42 AM   #21
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I'll bet a quarter the plate is not riveted. Payable at Balloon Fiesta.

Pat
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Old 07-07-2011, 09:44 AM   #22
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I spray mine with silicone lube.
Thanks, good idea. I'll try a spray or two and see if I can turn the remaining nub with a pliers.
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Old 07-07-2011, 09:45 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by pmclemore View Post
I'll bet a quarter the plate is not riveted. Payable at Balloon Fiesta.

Pat
Quarter and a complimentary adult beverage of your choice if so . . . !
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Old 07-07-2011, 10:33 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahab View Post
I spray mine with silicone lube.
Thanks to 2air's advice ("Fresh water drain plug sticks") I found that Molykote 316 Silicone Release Spray is helpful here and, because it is food grade, it's safe for other uses, such as on refrigerator gaskets.

More information and photos are found in the AirForums post "Sanitizing the fresh water system".
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Old 08-04-2011, 11:39 AM   #25
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Quarter and a complimentary adult beverage of your choice if so . . . !
Pat,
Got my head under the AS last weekend. You are correct. What appeared to be rivets are in fact pan head screws. Got the plate open, and will agonize a little more about how to get the hose disconnected from the stub on the back of the valve. One 25-cent and beverage now due and payable...[gh]
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Old 08-05-2011, 03:49 PM   #26
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Hee heee - can't wait!

Here's what I did: Remove the clamp from the tank side, and see if you can pull the valve, hose and valve-side clamp through the hole in the frame. If you can't get it through, use a dremel cutting wheel and cut the clamp. Find a smaller clamp (pex, perhaps) and attach it to the new valve and hose, then feed the hose and clamp through the hole. Reattach the hose clamp to the tank.

Good luck.

Pat
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Old 08-06-2011, 06:45 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmclemore
Hee heee - can't wait!

Here's what I did: Remove the clamp from the tank side, and see if you can pull the valve, hose and valve-side clamp through the hole in the frame. If you can't get it through, use a dremel cutting wheel and cut the clamp. Find a smaller clamp (pex, perhaps) and attach it to the new valve and hose, then feed the hose and clamp through the hole. Reattach the hose clamp to the tank.

Good luck.

Pat
That's a good plan of attack. Heck, it's not raining UNDER the AS, so I can get to work!
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:17 AM   #28
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It's such a pain to replace the danged thing - and it's going to break every couple of years.

Wish we could just use a zipper, or something.

Pat
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Old 08-09-2011, 12:54 PM   #29
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saw a nice mod in 2010

I was at ft stevens st park in oregon, in jan 2010. saw a very late model 25 fb with a nice ball valve that had a flex "choke control cable" attached and it could be operated by bending over at the waist and pulling said choke cable. It seems to me to leave the original alone and then make up a "flange" that will fasten to the tank, being sure to utilize the right sized hole to match the ball valve. I would put in at least a 3/8 or 1/2 inch valve-make a little brace for it so any movement of the handle did not translate into tank side flex. I think the owner of the above trailer said it was the best $45 he ever spent. I think it'd be a bit more than that, but you'd only do it once. ol' bill oh-point is I use this drain a lot.
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Old 11-22-2022, 07:35 PM   #30
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https://www.airforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=425672&stc=1&d=1669167 279
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Old 11-22-2022, 07:43 PM   #31
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I picked this water valve from Home hardware
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Old Today, 08:44 AM   #32
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Fresh water drain valve

I use FOOD GRADE silicone lube each time I drain my tank. Just spray it up into the valve and turn the valve while spraying up into the valve.
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