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Old 12-18-2018, 05:20 PM   #1
wmb
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Fresh water dripping from front of driver-side wheel well

Today when packing up to leave we noticed a damp patch in front of the wheels on the driver side. I didn't see any drip occur, but there were a few beads of water clearly visible - one on the outside corner of the wheel well, on the inside corner hanging off a screw/bolt, and a third on the short length of PVC tube that I think is the propane supply to the fridge. At first I thought it may be the A/C condensation tube, which exits into the wheel well right at that point, but the tube was bone dry (which makes sense because we haven't run the A/C for months). The wet patch is also directly beneath the black tank flush and city water inlets, though, so I got access to the inlets inside through the bathroom cabinet and noticed nothing was wet or dripping. However, when I poked a piece of kitchen towel into the gap around the bottom of the city water inlet (into the insulation), it came back soaked.

So it looks like water is dripping down from the city inlet inside the wall, between the inner and outer skins.

I've disconnected the city supply and we're living off of refilling the fresh water tank for now, but I'm going to take off the inlet tomorrow and see if there's anything to tighten up.

Is there anything else I can inspect to asses the damage this might have caused? Could water leaking down the inside of the wall have made its way to the sub-floor (I'm not sure how far the plywood extends out)? I haven't noticed any moisture inside the trailer in that area, but I'd need to remove the fridge in order see what's going on under there (not looking forward to that)...
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Old 12-18-2018, 05:32 PM   #2
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You should be able to get at the fresh water inlet valve from the interior - typically behind cabinet / etc. you can normally reach it with your hand - and could feel if it is wet / damp when your city water is connected and under pressure.
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Old 12-18-2018, 07:17 PM   #3
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The fridge has a condensation drain that is typically a piece of PEX tubing. If water is coming out of that, it is normal. Propane supply line should be copper.

Al
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Old 12-18-2018, 07:38 PM   #4
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I had a similar drip that took two trips to JC and a trip to the dealer to solve. This was over a period of two seasons and the leak was intermittent. Turned out to be caused by a cracked fresh water inlet body that leaked only under certain conditions. Very strange indeed. The second trip to JC for it was successful and the problem was cured by replacing the inlet. They had great difficulty getting it to leak in a bench test. The body had a hairline crack that leaked only when they twisted the body in a certain way.
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Old 12-18-2018, 10:05 PM   #5
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On my 2013 25FB Flying Cloud, I had the city water inlet fixture leak. I replaced it. Later I found out that sometimes the leak can be stopped by tightening the four screws on the back of the fixture.

At first the leak only happened when there was extra-high water pressure. Later it happened with normal water pressure. And the leak even happened when the city water hose was disconnected, and we were using the pump.

On my trailer, the inlet fixture is behind the bottom of the closet. The water from the leak did reach the floor, but we caught it soon enough there was no damage to the wood. To get better access to the area, I removed the two wooden panels at the back of the closet, and hacked a big hole in the closet floor. I installed a very cool water/leak detector in the area for when the new inlet fixture (or something else) leaks: Honywell RWD41.
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Old 12-19-2018, 09:20 AM   #6
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Air Conditioner drain.
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Old 12-19-2018, 09:25 AM   #7
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If it dripping out of a short black rubber hose it your AC condensation drain.
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Old 12-19-2018, 09:36 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
The fridge has a condensation drain that is typically a piece of PEX tubing. If water is coming out of that, it is normal. Propane supply line should be copper.

Al
I concur.
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Old 12-19-2018, 09:56 AM   #9
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As others have said, sounds like the city water inlet. I have the same issue and am about to change the inlet out. Inside access on my FC28 is a little challenging so hopefully enough slack to get it changed from outside. The regulator is attached at this inlet and is what is likely the cause of leak. Good luck.

Chuck
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Old 12-19-2018, 10:24 AM   #10
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I had the same problem several months ago. I had a white hose that I used for my fresh water here at home and found it was the water pressure causing the problem. When it started filling the holding tank when not connected to it was a bigger concern.
I put a pressure valve on the hose at the house and even when camping now. The problem went away.
Hope you can find your cause...
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Old 12-19-2018, 10:31 AM   #11
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I had this problem when going from sea level to high elevation. Air in the water system expanded and forced water out at the city water inlet connection. Problem went away after opening faucet to let off pressure.
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Old 12-19-2018, 10:34 AM   #12
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Thanks everyone. I'm 99% sure it's the city water inlet. I poked some more paper towel into the gap below the inlet, into the insulation and it's still coming out wet. Doing the same thing above the inlet it comes out bone dry, so there doesn't appear to be any water getting in from above.

I've tightened the four screws (each took about a quarter turn) and will see if it dries out before replacing it. Looks like those inlets are pretty inexpensive, though.
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Old 12-19-2018, 10:46 AM   #13
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Leak

Quote:
Originally Posted by wmb View Post
Today when packing up to leave we noticed a damp patch in front of the wheels on the driver side. I didn't see any drip occur, but there were a few beads of water clearly visible - one on the outside corner of the wheel well, on the inside corner hanging off a screw/bolt, and a third on the short length of PVC tube that I think is the propane supply to the fridge. At first I thought it may be the A/C condensation tube, which exits into the wheel well right at that point, but the tube was bone dry (which makes sense because we haven't run the A/C for months). The wet patch is also directly beneath the black tank flush and city water inlets, though, so I got access to the inlets inside through the bathroom cabinet and noticed nothing was wet or dripping. However, when I poked a piece of kitchen towel into the gap around the bottom of the city water inlet (into the insulation), it came back soaked.

So it looks like water is dripping down from the city inlet inside the wall, between the inner and outer skins.

I've disconnected the city supply and we're living off of refilling the fresh water tank for now, but I'm going to take off the inlet tomorrow and see if there's anything to tighten up.

Is there anything else I can inspect to asses the damage this might have caused? Could water leaking down the inside of the wall have made its way to the sub-floor (I'm not sure how far the plywood extends out)? I haven't noticed any moisture inside the trailer in that area, but I'd need to remove the fridge in order see what's going on under there (not looking forward to that)...
When I found a leak after delivery and I could not access due to the set up where the refrigerator is in that same location I defaulted to mother station because I had no idea and under warranty, I did not want to void anything. It turned out to be a bad connection at the pump which is also located in that same area. I had another big leak under the shower but that was another problem I found on my first trip out. Seems quality control is not what I expected from Airstream especially at the price these units sell for.
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Old 12-19-2018, 10:48 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
The fridge has a condensation drain that is typically a piece of PEX tubing. If water is coming out of that, it is normal. Propane supply line should be copper.

Al
Yes, there's a plastic tube that exits out in the lower outside fridge compartment, and I've seen a little puddle there a few times. I figured it was a condensation drain.

The main propane line runs across the width of the trailer and is indeed copper. On mine there's also a length of white PVC pipe that splits off that and disappears up in front of the wheel well. Is that supposed to be copper too?
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Old 12-19-2018, 12:30 PM   #15
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I'll start another thread for the PVC pipe running off the propane line.
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Old 12-19-2018, 05:41 PM   #16
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I had a recent challenge of the same nature.





The FW connection being cracked or 1/ALL of the 4 screws loose were the obvious fixes. However in the 20' the FW inlet backes up to the bathroom and I have a small alu plate by the toilet (whose main intent is to cover the abs vent) to peek in to see/touch the backs of the FW and BW connections, not to mention a lot of other plumbing. Moisture present. Since I was there I as noted on the link, I used my fingers to tighten the thump tab connectors...which were a lot looser that I expected. I also tightened the ext plate. I pressured up and al was groovy. I tried to pull the exterior plate but with no play would have had to disc the FW connection that I just tightened. Since all was good, I left the FW plate and the 4 screws alone.



The loose thump screw connection was the 1st pass and eventual solution...plus no need to disconnect to pull off the fw plate back to tighten the 4 screws.

Posts 2392 & 2396
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f542...27845-171.html

Now it is a regular check.


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p.s. My refer (on the other side of the trailer) drip leads to the edge of the lower door opening and drips down the side of the trailer...if it ever drips Never noticed any moisture there.
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Old 12-19-2018, 06:40 PM   #17
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Inside the water inlet itself, accessible by removing those 4 screws, is a rubber O ring, prone to going bad. First check to make sure the water line fitting is tight to the inlet, bouncing down the road can cause it to loosen.

If it has not been dripping and leaking very long, everything will dry out and be fine. John
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Old 12-19-2018, 09:29 PM   #18
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At least you can get to the back of it. Mine is blocked by the shower stall wall. Ditto the electrical port. Have to work from outside on mine...
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Old 12-19-2018, 09:39 PM   #19
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BTW, on many trailers you can remove the inlet fixture from the outside. It depends on how much slack there is in the plumbing.
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Old 12-19-2018, 10:23 PM   #20
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WMB....I had a similar leak from the black tank flush check valve. When you have completed fixing it you may want to take a shop vac and run the hose down that compartment and run it for a few hours to dry out the area. I did that with mine and have not had any problems from the water.
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