Fresh Water Drain Valve - GONE

[Lag323]

I left home with a full tank of fresh water and after 3 hours stopped for fuel and bathroom break. To my dismay, no fresh water. Tank read 0%. No water in the trailer so I figured leak was outside.

I found this:





I obviously ran something over and sheered the valve off.

My question, is this a standard valve (NPT size?) and is the replacement straight forward (remove screws, twist off and replace) or do I need to take the whole tank off to access the tank and associated water lines. I just need to know is this a two beer job or a 12 pack.

[crispyboy]

I had the same crummy plastic valve on my 94 trailer. My trailer had an inspection plate on the bottom of the tank pan just under the valve. The valve connected into a vinyl hose with a worm clamp.
To get the trailer up high enough to work under it I used a pair of Rhino car ramps which are rated for 10k lbs. You will need to source a piece of metal to cover the hole after you create the access hole. Be careful, start small and only cut enough to make the repair.

[Al and Missy]

This link will take you to one option and show you some more.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AIRSTREAM-R...-/182211502860


I got one of the white powder coated aluminum ones years ago and haven't installed it yet. Last year the hose between the tank drain fitting and the OEM valve failed and I lost all my fresh water. I noticed water pouring out of the belly pan access at the drain valve (apparently it had been repaired before). The valve location was not aligned with the tank drain. The hose had an offset of about 3/8" in less than an inch of length and the hose failed where it was crimped.


So getting this fixed has now moved up the priority list.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

This link will take you to one option and show you some more.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AIRSTREAM-R...-/182211502860


I got one of the white powder coated aluminum ones years ago and haven't installed it yet. Last year the hose between the tank drain fitting and the OEM valve failed and I lost all my fresh water. I noticed water pouring out of the belly pan access at the drain valve (apparently it had been repaired before). The valve location was not aligned with the tank drain. The hose had an offset of about 3/8" in less than an inch of length and the hose failed where it was crimped.


So getting this fixed has now moved up the priority list.

^
X2
Support a DAV, made in the USA.
I used a 1/4" ball valve.

Bob
🇺🇸

[oldenavy]

If you open the inspection plate on the bottom, you should be able to see the hose between the tank & valve that is attached with a hose clamp to the valve and to the plastic hose bib that is screwed into the side of the tank.

I removed the whole assembly and replaced it with a 1/4 turn boiler valve, similar to this one:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...C3EB/205811822

Now I have a sturdier valve that gives better flow to drain the tank faster and has threads for a hose to drain the water where I want it.

It's a tight spot to work in... best of luck getting it fixed.

If you're in a pinch and on the road, you can always do a temporary fix by driving a wooden plug into the hole, carefully. That should hold until you get home & can make a permanent repair.

[wave man]

This was so needed, mine recently broke off in my hand as I opened the drain...
Thanks to all the helpful replies and solutions as always..
Best wishes to all

[QC TORPEDO]

If you don't need to drain the tank often, you can use a rubber expansion plug or rubber well nut. They are still removable, but no valve. Mine broke off on the road, probably debris, and I installed a rubber well nut of the appropriate size. All good.

[RamRider]

I think you will find the barb of the original drain valve inside the tube, after removing the clamps you can use an electric drill to very careful remove the barb, also you will probably have to carefully cut the original drain behind hind the metal plate to start the process. Finally after cutting off the drain if you are careful and do not remove too much plastic from the cover you can re-use the original metal cover, I also used the original clamps to secure my new metal drain faucet, before re-attaching the metal cover I cut a groove in the top so I could take it off if additional work has to be done many years in the future.
You will need some small wrenches to remove and re-attach the clamps.
Save the 12 pack for when you are sharing the experience with your friends later.

[daleyocum]

Originally Posted by QC TORPEDO

If you don't need to drain the tank often, you can use a rubber expansion plug or rubber well nut. They are still removable, but no valve. Mine broke off on the road, probably debris, and I installed a rubber well nut of the appropriate size. All good.

A Well Nut, available at Ace Hardware stores and the like are a brilliant idea as a temporary fix. They come in various sizes and will expand about 25% when tightened.