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Old 07-16-2003, 11:19 AM   #1
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Fresh water drain plug sticks

The fresh water drain petcock on my trailer is very hard to turn. Is there anything I can use to lube it? Is silicone oil ok for plastic?
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Old 07-16-2003, 11:55 AM   #2
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Not familiar with the PVC type petcock on A/S, but on the pool at my old house, I used to use baby oil on the PVC valves for the solar panels. Worked like a charm.


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Old 07-16-2003, 12:34 PM   #3
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Yea mine is a bear also. The problem is getting it started since the little tab sits against a flat surface. There is no easy way to get your finger behind the tab. Sometime a small screwdriver just to pry the tab away far enough is all you need to do. Once you get your finger behind the tab you can apply the force necessary to open it up. I haven't had to take the lubrication route at this point.

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Old 07-16-2003, 02:38 PM   #4
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On the '03s (at least the Bambi), those type valves are gone. They use a smaller version of the valve that connects to a house toilet, except these move very, very smoothly. No binding at all.
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Old 07-16-2003, 02:57 PM   #5
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Calve

Mine has a PVC ball valve. There is an elbow and the ball valve hangs right under the tank woth a big handle. Very easy to operate, but I worry sometimes about it hanging so low.
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Old 07-16-2003, 05:02 PM   #6
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nylon

skip

as near as i can tell it is made from nylon.

i used silicone dielectric grease on mine.

if you push up on the bottom while turning it pops up. then you can remove the core.

plain corn oil might work also.

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Old 07-17-2003, 08:10 AM   #7
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???

Strange. I answered a question on another thread and it ended up on this thread instead. I had a line drop while answering and that might explain it.

Sorry, I didn't mean to confuse the issue..
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Old 07-17-2003, 08:45 AM   #8
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I'm sorry I didn't describe the problem clearly enough. The petcock I'm talking about is the one under the trailer to drain the fresh water tank for winterizing etc.
Sorry,
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Old 10-22-2009, 07:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipj View Post
The fresh water drain petcock on my trailer is very hard to turn. Is there anything I can use to lube it? Is silicone oil ok for plastic?
SkipJ
Well, 6 years have gone by and SkipJ's question seems to have been not fully answered...

And my fresh water drain petcock did not want to budge when I tried to open it with my hand, and I don't want to break it so...

Does anyone have any updates, hints and/or ideas re: this problem?
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Old 10-22-2009, 09:19 PM   #10
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Well, 6 years have gone by and SkipJ's question seems to have been not fully answered...
it looks answered from my reading.

the wings on the nylon petcock are very strong.

once thought i'd break it too, but did not.

as jack notes in THIS thread 6 years ago...

the main issue is turning it TOO FAR (open or closed) so that a finger won't fit behind it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skipj View Post
... Is there anything I can use to lube it? Is silicone oil ok for plastic?...
and as john suggests, one may use dielectric silicone grease for lube.

i use food grade silicone spray which penetrates the mechanism, making turns easier.

silicone (siloxanes) are not OIL, but they are sometimes put in an oily substrate.

some of the 100% silicone sprays indicate on the label "safe for nylon or plastic"

and food grade is even better around the galley and water supply.

and just remember NOT to turn too far.

as soon as the flow stops it's closed, and full open is about 45 degrees .

here's an old post on this, i use the SAME spray on window gaskets and door gasket and the FRIDGE gaskets....

http://www.airforums.com/forums/602814-post4.html

the stuff a/s uses is made by dow "316" and that's what i use because it's food grade.

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:49 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
...

the wings on the nylon petcock are very strong.

once thought i'd break it too, but did not...

i use food grade silicone spray which penetrates the mechanism, making turns easier.

silicone (siloxanes) are not OIL, but they are sometimes put in an oily substrate.

some of the 100% silicone sprays indicate on the label "safe for nylon or plastic"

and food grade is even better around the galley and water supply.

and just remember NOT to turn too far.

as soon as the flow stops it's closed, and full open is about 45 degrees .

here's an old post on this, i use the SAME spray on window gaskets and door gasket and the FRIDGE gaskets....

http://www.airforums.com/forums/602814-post4.html

the stuff a/s uses is made by dow "316" and that's what i use because it's food grade.

cheers
2air'
well, on behalf of SkipJ and myself, i'd say this issue is now fully answered.

thank you, dear wizard of the airforums...

and welcome back!
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Old 10-22-2009, 11:48 PM   #12
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well, on behalf of SkipJ and myself, i'd say this issue is now fully answered.

thank you, dear wizard of the airforums...

and welcome back!
well ne1 that raises a 6 year dead zombie thread...

knows what's coming in a week or so...

check ur mudflaps!

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-23-2009, 06:40 AM   #13
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After many painful fingers, different lubricants, and extensions to increase torque, I had AS replace it when we were last in JC - works pretty smoothly now.
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Old 11-06-2009, 03:15 PM   #14
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The stuff is now called Molykote 316 and seemed to help.

Details on this and my experience are here.
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Old 11-06-2009, 05:41 PM   #15
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Old 11-06-2009, 06:10 PM   #16
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Thanks, I'll try the suggestions, never give up hope :-)
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Old 11-06-2009, 06:43 PM   #17
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Not really related to the lube issue, but I found mine was very hard to access between the wheels, so I added a length of hose to the spigot, ran it to a second tap which I installed on a new bracket just ahead of the lead wheel. So now I leave the original tap on the open position.

The only slight concern I have is that the new valve is a bit more vulnerable to damage from road debris, but if it gets knocked off, all I lose is water plus a $4 valve!

It is much easier to get to!

Brian
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