fresh water drain

[wmarsha]

this is a quote from Dan on another thread and I did not want to hijack that thread; hence this one with a root question: The plastic fresh water drain "faucet" is a pain to get to; and is a pain to turn. Has anyone replaced it with a cable controlled ball valve made of brass? And if so, please share your methodology. Here is the quote:

if you have the white one that is plastic you can use a silicon spray with a small red plastic straw and direct the spray at the top of the turning handle. Some times this makes it easy to turn.

If it were to break, it can be a big hassle to replace. The part does not cost very much but getting to it (dropping the pan) can be pricy if your having someone else do it and allot of work for you if your doing it.

As a rule of thumb (for anyone else following this thread) if the unit is more than 3 or 4 years old and you have to drop the belly pan I would always replace the plastic drain.
__________________
Dan Brown
LED 4 Recreational Vehicles
Kernersville NC

So, has anyone photos of such a mod? I have seen one at a distance at an RV park once. but not close enough to understand how to do it.
thanks
ol' bill

[dznf0g]

I haven't done it yet. I keep mine lubed with silicone and it is pretty free. On some ASes, like my 30 Classic, you can get to the short hose connecting the valve to the water tank from under the closet floor, where the water pump is. I wouldn't say it'll be easy, as you will have to perform some acrobatics to get to the clamps....but doable. It would be easier than dropping or cutting the pan, I think.

[btowntincan]

Good advice. Mine is pretty stiff, and i was concerned about breaking it this spring. I'll try the spray.

[polarlyse]

Previous owner had cut an access panel for this job. Still cramped to fit my large fingers in but doable with some choice words. I just had to remove a bunch of sheet metal screws to gain access. When I bought the valve I got an extra to have on hand and also got an extra piece of hose in case I ever have to do the job along the road. I couldn't remove the small piece of hose from the barb fitting without cutting it so it's not salvagable.

[Bluto]

Do you recall the hose size (inside dia. and length)? I like the idea of having a spare piece of hose on hand.

[CeloNC]

Hi guys,
I am late to this thread so I am not sure what year AS you are talking about. I have a 1970 31' and spent hours trying to locate the freshwater tank valve. I was finally able to access it through the floor under the kitchen sink. It's plastic and has a small lever on top that was incredibly hard to turn and to reacgh. I finall took a flat stick and notched it so I could slide the notch over the handle and turn it. Does the photo I have look like the valve to guys are talking about? To me, it looks like it is missing something. It's hard to believe that AS would design something so difficult to access.
Bill

[polarlyse]

Hi Bluto. No I can't remember the size. Probably 3/8" ID but I'll try and remember to take a closer look to be sure. I got it at Home Depot. It's the transparent re-inforced plastic tubing. I had to get a 10' length since that's all they sell but if you check a local H-ware they may cut shorter pieces for you. I got the valve from Vintage Trailer supply ( but I can check that also) and they're only a couple of bucks so get a couple. The tubing I needed was only about 3" or so.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by CeloNC

Hi guys,
I am late to this thread so I am not sure what year AS you are talking about. I have a 1970 31' and spent hours trying to locate the freshwater tank valve. I was finally able to access it through the floor under the kitchen sink. It's plastic and has a small lever on top that was incredibly hard to turn and to reacgh. I finall took a flat stick and notched it so I could slide the notch over the handle and turn it. Does the photo I have look like the valve to guys are talking about? To me, it looks like it is missing something. It's hard to believe that AS would design something so difficult to access.
Bill

Yes, that's the valve. On the newer units, though, it is extended with a short hose and is mounted on the OUTSIDE of the pan. Easier to get to, but can freeze more readily. Try come silicone spray with the straw attached in the crack between the valve handle and vale body. Work it a few times. It'll free up considerably.

[Bluto]

Originally Posted by polarlyse

Hi Bluto. No I can't remember the size. Probably 3/8" ID but I'll try and remember to take a closer look to be sure. I got it at Home Depot. It's the transparent re-inforced plastic tubing. I had to get a 10' length since that's all they sell but if you check a local H-ware they may cut shorter pieces for you. I got the valve from Vintage Trailer supply ( but I can check that also) and they're only a couple of bucks so get a couple. The tubing I needed was only about 3" or so.

I bought a replacement valve yesterday and it does look like 3/8ths will do it for the hose, so your memory is serving you well.
Thank You!

[Ag&Au]

I don't know what year trailer you are referencing. However, our 2010 has a round access hole in the pan just inside of the drain valve. I have always assumed that was to provide access to the outlet hose where it is attached to the tank. I don't believe that replacement would be that big of a job.

Ken

Originally Posted by wmarsha

this is a quote from Dan on another thread and I did not want to hijack that thread; hence this one with a root question: The plastic fresh water drain "faucet" is a pain to get to; and is a pain to turn. Has anyone replaced it with a cable controlled ball valve made of brass? And if so, please share your methodology. Here is the quote:

if you have the white one that is plastic you can use a silicon spray with a small red plastic straw and direct the spray at the top of the turning handle. Some times this makes it easy to turn.

If it were to break, it can be a big hassle to replace. The part does not cost very much but getting to it (dropping the pan) can be pricy if your having someone else do it and allot of work for you if your doing it.

As a rule of thumb (for anyone else following this thread) if the unit is more than 3 or 4 years old and you have to drop the belly pan I would always replace the plastic drain.
__________________
Dan Brown
LED 4 Recreational Vehicles
Kernersville NC

So, has anyone photos of such a mod? I have seen one at a distance at an RV park once. but not close enough to understand how to do it.
thanks
ol' bill

[dznf0g]

There is a plate on the bottom of my pan, but IIRC, last time I had my closet floor out and the plate off, it was still a chore to get the angles you need to get to the hose clamps. The valve, I believe was installed right after the frames are flipped right side up after the tanks and pans are installed. There is no floor in place at that point and they just install the clamps willy nilly. As I recall, I determined, when the time comes, even with both access points open, I will have to use diagonal cutters and cut off the clamps....and it will be difficult to get the angle and leverage needed to cut them. Re-installation with some forethought of future serviceability will not be too difficult.....I THINK......

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

There is a plate on the bottom of my pan, but IIRC, last time I had my closet floor out and the plate off, it was still a chore to get the angles you need to get to the hose clamps. The valve, I believe was installed right after the frames are flipped right side up after the tanks and pans are installed. There is no floor in place at that point and they just install the clamps willy nilly. As I recall, I determined, when the time comes, even with both access points open, I will have to use diagonal cutters and cut off the clamps....and it will be difficult to get the angle and leverage needed to cut them. Re-installation with some forethought of future serviceability will not be too difficult.....I THINK......

Thanks for the information. It's not encouraging, but also not surprising. I don't know how similar our trailers are in the closet. I am sure ours is longer because the shower is in the bathroom. When I lift out the black floor panel, I don't see any way to get access to anything further. The same floor that is in the hallway is under the whole closet except for a few inch square cut out for the water hose to go down to the tank. Our trailer is still in storage, so I am working from memory. If I run into the same problem as you have, I think I will be tempted to cut the bottom access hole larger and make a larger cover for it.

Ken

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by w7ts

Thanks for the information. It's not encouraging, but also not surprising. I don't know how similar our trailers are in the closet. I am sure ours is longer because the shower is in the bathroom. When I lift out the black floor panel, I don't see any way to get access to anything further. The same floor that is in the hallway is under the whole closet except for a few inch square cut out for the water hose to go down to the tank. Our trailer is still in storage, so I am working from memory. If I run into the same problem as you have, I think I will be tempted to cut the bottom access hole larger and make a larger cover for it.

Ken

I think they are the same. IIRC you can see the hose and valve backside through that hole. IIRC the hole in the floor is about 10" X 5". Not great, but I think it can be done without cutting any pan out. Might have to be creative and buy some special tools. For me, cutting is a LAST resort.

Edit: WAIT, do you have a pantry between the stove and the closet?

[wmarsha]

"The plastic fresh water drain "faucet" is a pain to get to; and is a pain to turn. Has anyone replaced it with a cable controlled ball valve made of brass? And if so, please share your methodology."

This was my question, but you guys went elsewhere. Because no one is saying they replaced it, and certainly no photos so far. I am not sure it matters what year, both my 85 and 95 have had this small spigot, that is similar to water jug spigots. How about it-anyone replace this dang thang with a easy to get to/operate valve?

[wmarsha]

I believe the rotating part of this valve to be a male taper and the body of the valve to be a female taper. I do not know what holds these two pieces together; I am wondering if a minor amount of upward pressure (tap it with a hammer handle) applied to the outlet of the valve would make it easier to turn? of course over exertion here may require you to replace it... but if said valve is constructed like a water jug spigot, then it would have tapered pieces.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by wmarsha

"The plastic fresh water drain "faucet" is a pain to get to; and is a pain to turn. Has anyone replaced it with a cable controlled ball valve made of brass? And if so, please share your methodology."

This was my question, but you guys went elsewhere. Because no one is saying they replaced it, and certainly no photos so far. I am not sure it matters what year, both my 85 and 95 have had this small spigot, that is similar to water jug spigots. How about it-anyone replace this dang thang with a easy to get to/operate valve?

Have you ever seen such an animal? That'd be nice. But, you still gotta know how to get to it before you can do anything.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by wmarsha

"The plastic fresh water drain "faucet" is a pain to get to; and is a pain to turn. Has anyone replaced it with a cable controlled ball valve made of brass? And if so, please share your methodology."

This was my question, but you guys went elsewhere. Because no one is saying they replaced it, and certainly no photos so far. I am not sure it matters what year, both my 85 and 95 have had this small spigot, that is similar to water jug spigots. How about it-anyone replace this dang thang with a easy to get to/operate valve?

Did you look at any of these threads?

They are just a few of many that came up in my search.

hope they help.

Ken

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...lve-27734.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...lve-77057.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...lve-48751.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f163...ent-86063.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...ent-86062.html