Classic 30 Water Compartment Replacement

[Al and Missy]

Recently I read a post from someone who said they pulled their water compartment periodically to clean up rust and re-paint it. I can't find it now.

If you have done this, how hard is it? I have managed to find one of the stainless replacements and will be pulling mine soon. Here is my guess at the process:

1. Drill out rivets for the water compartment door and remove it.
2. Remove screws holding the black tank flush sub-panel and remove it.
3. Disconnect the rear of the fresh water inlet and remove the fitting.
4. Remove the hose bib adjacent to the water inlet.
5. Remove the screws from the sides and rear of the compartment and pull it.

Install new panel in reverse order.

Have I missed anything? I am assuming that all the water connections come into the compartment from above behind the fresh water inlet and no piping needs to be cut.

Thanks,

[dznf0g]

Nope, that's it. You will need someone with smaller hands to get behind the loose black flush panel, in order to remove the water lines from the flush, city supply and the hose bib (if you have one). All the connections are screw on, like your water pump.

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Nope, that's it. You will need someone with smaller hands to get behind the loose black flush panel, in order to remove the water lines from the flush, city supply and the hose bib (if you have one). All the connections are screw on, like your water pump.

Thanks Rich,
I actually did everything except pull the door and pull the screws to remove the compartment when I had to replace my city water inlet. I learned the hard way that it doesn't matter which order you take the screws out of the sub-panel but you need to put the back one in first.

My steel water compartment is in need of a stripping and painting, but I found a stainless replacement so I'll put that in. The trailer is at Out of Doors Mart getting the tire tread damage repaired but I won't get the compartment in time to have them do it. I'll just have to remove the water compartment door I paid them to replace.

[dznf0g]

Not a big deal to pop the door off and on. I repainted mine...like 9 or 10 years ago, before the stainless units were offered. Mine is about due for paint again....I think I'll get the stainless and be done with it.

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Not a big deal to pop the door off and on. I repainted mine...like 9 or 10 years ago, before the stainless units were offered. Mine is about due for paint again....I think I'll get the stainless and be done with it.

They are hard to find. I think Airstream Supply has one or more with the water fittings on the right. I needed left and they were out. Last time I looked I couldn't find one. I got lucky a few days ago.

[Brawny]

This is on my to do list for next year once our trailer is out of storage. 2004 30' Classic. Previous owner had repainted the base plate at least once with rust paint, but rust has more or less destroyed it around the plastic fitting water line feeds in. Just started having fresh water tank issues before winterizing too, so may need a trip to mothership to have both fixed next year.



I didn't know this part was available in stainless. Worth the upgrade if it slows/stops rust...

[fltlevel510]

It has been some years since I removed my water compartment components. I don't remember having to drill out the rivets and remove the door. The stainless steel replacements were not available when I did mine but rather I sandblasted the parts and took them to the local LineX store. Works great, last a long time. You might also think about having the bumper storage drawer coated with LineX. I have also seen where people have used POR-15 to paint/coat this pieces with great success.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by fltlevel510

It has been some years since I removed my water compartment components. I don't remember having to drill out the rivets and remove the door. The stainless steel replacements were not available when I did mine but rather I sandblasted the parts and took them to the local LineX store. Works great, last a long time. You might also think about having the bumper storage drawer coated with LineX. I have also seen where people have used POR-15 to paint/coat this pieces with great success.

After trying several paints over the years, I coated my GALVANIZED bumper drawer (galvanized is hard for coatings to stick to) with Por-15. Adhered well and has lasted very well.

[Tschupp]

Thanks guys, very useful thread.

Located a regular steel replacement box by part number through one of the standard vendors, who arranged having it sent from the mothership. I wanted to get stainless, but couldn’t crack that supply chain, and the original steel box has lasted almost 20 years, so that’s not bad. Now just need to remove the old plumbing to get the old rusted box out. Scratching my head on how to get behind the metal to disconnect the fittings now that I have them unscrewed.

Anyway, I appreciate having found this discussion, as it clarifies that this task is possible!

[Robfike]

Does the 2012 31’ Classic have the city water hook up and a black tank flush in the left bay, or just two city water hook ups? We just got ours and the manual is not very clear.

[Juice]

2018 22’ Bambi Sport
Trying to replace fresh water drain valve.
Held on by two screws, after removing the screws I am unable to remove drain valve. Something is keeping drain cock from pulling away from tank cover.
What am I missing?
Am I going about this the correct way?
Have not tried to muscle it out…..comments welcome.
Juice