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08-12-2006, 02:37 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Merrimakc
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 40
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city water won't flow..help!
I just got a 72 tradewind and during the whole checking out process I can't manage to get my water to run from the city water source...at all...bone dry.
The water pump is off and the hose is flowing freely and hooked into our water inlet in the back near the bumper. Does anyone know what else could be stopping the free flow of my h20?
Sleeping in it tonight for the first time. Shake and bake!!!
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08-12-2006, 06:49 PM
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#2
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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There is a water pressure regulator/check valve in the streetside rear corner of your coach. They tend to stick shut. If you look, this should look like a pressure regulator on a set of welder's torches, without the handle.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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08-13-2006, 02:36 PM
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#3
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New Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1
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getting water regulator open
try taking a ratchet and adjusting the water regulator open, the adjustment is on the top
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08-13-2006, 05:24 PM
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#4
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I love Airstreams...
Commercial Member
1989 29' Land Yacht
Haines City
, Florida
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 287
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an idea..
under your sink...just infront of left of the furnace...reach down and turn the right most spin handle...if this is not the right one and if you have a schem. check which one of the 3 lines runs to water heater...
just an idea
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08-13-2006, 05:36 PM
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#5
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Islay - 63 O.
1963 26' Overlander
Montreal
, -
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 581
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I had this problem the first of camp this year, a month ago...
I had nothin' in the bathroom, just some drops from the shower head.
So my first intervention was to, turn off the water, remove the cartridge of one taps, turn back on the water, and everything was perfect.
So I put the cartridge back on, and tried again, and again no water.
I stayed about 15 min to try to understand why...
Then I removed the stuff at the end of the taps, you know the stuff that you unscrew to remove, with the grid (english is not my natural language, and I don't know how to name that part) anyway, it was full of deposit, and the water couldn't pass thru... sounds stupid and it is, but I cleaned up all the faucet and everything was back.
So let's try that...
david
__________________
Canadian Atlantic Unit Past President
Protect your dream from others and first yourself...
Few rolling wheels to make our planet a house.
A 1/5th of her that I own.
TAC# : QC-1
my blog
https://rvcampreview.com
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08-13-2006, 05:52 PM
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#6
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5 rivets, 1 loose screw
1966 20' Globetrotter
Saginaw County
, Michigan
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 1,555
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__________________
Rog
May you camp where wind won’t hit you, where snakes won’t bite and bears won’t git you.
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08-20-2006, 12:01 AM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Merrimakc
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 40
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Thanks for the responses everyone.
We ran some tests on it and water was pouring into the hallway. We just recently purchases our 72 tradewind from a man from Austin who had it stored in Massachusetts. Now I'm pretty sure he was unaware of winterproofing because he left water in the water heater over the winter causing it to burst and overflow water into the heater casing and eventually backing up into my hallway. It was like the Poseidon Adventure for a few minutes there.
But the good news is that I get a newer hotter water heater. Has heater technology changed much from 72 when our original heater was installed? I seem to only see two makers of RV waterheaters to choose from. Once that is done I can move on to the busted furnace and water pump.
-->Bill
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08-20-2006, 01:07 PM
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#8
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Round on both ends
1979 31' Excella 500
1975 28' Argosy 28
Rutledge
, Georgia
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 783
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Hi, Bill,
I've been there, done that. My Argosy was flood central the first time I applied water pressure, and it was a hole in the bottom of the water heater tank that caused it. Fortunately, most of it spilled overboard or leaked into the belly.
Hotter? I doubt it. The core theory and operation is still the same - put a curved tube inside a tank and shoot a flame through it.
What has improved is the saftey aspect (auto-shut off/auto relight) and convenience aspect (switched on/off from inside cabin and no standing pilot.) Yea!
Lamar
__________________
1975 Argosy 28 "Argosy"
1979 Excella 500 31 "Betsy"
1992 Lincoln Mk 7 LSC
2003 Dodge 2500 Cummins "TowHog"
"Lucy Loosehair" the cat - Airstream mascot
Klaatu barada nikto
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08-20-2006, 03:07 PM
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#9
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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There is something to be said for the standing pilot. Under normal conditions, it is all that is needed to keep the water hot after it is heated, unless you are using the water.
My personal ideal water heater would be a 10 gallon LP unit with DSI (auto igniter) and a 120 volt heating element.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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08-20-2006, 05:39 PM
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#10
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Round on both ends
1979 31' Excella 500
1975 28' Argosy 28
Rutledge
, Georgia
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 783
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Well, I looked at the power requirements for the electric water heating element. I decided that if I can't run the air conditioner and the microwave at the same time, I certainly didn't want the drag of the water heater's element, too.
Ah, that reminds me... I'm sitting in Betsy in a pasture using a wireless card. For the first time, she's plugged into her new home base - a pole (and meter) of her very own. Hmm... I might get away with the A/C and the microwave now.
Lamar
__________________
1975 Argosy 28 "Argosy"
1979 Excella 500 31 "Betsy"
1992 Lincoln Mk 7 LSC
2003 Dodge 2500 Cummins "TowHog"
"Lucy Loosehair" the cat - Airstream mascot
Klaatu barada nikto
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