City Water inlet repair/replacement on Classic

[rbs]

Inlet appears to be leaking and trying to determine how to gain access to it. This is on a 2015 Classic, wondered if someone who has replaced/repaired their's would share how they went about it. The assembly is located in a compartment with no other access available.

As always appreciate any and all help/advice

[GCinSC2]

Picture please ?

I did my classic if similar I know how to get to it.

[rbs]

picture of the city water inlet

[GCinSC2]

Similar, not identical. They moved the black tank flush connection.

See the panel just to the right of the flush connection? Remove that panel. Remove the screws on the fresh water connection. Reach in thru the access after that panel is removed and unscrew the PEX fitting should be easy by hand.

If you need a work around right now, take the old one to a hardware store and get a FM garden hose connection to male pipe thread and a short 3" or so plastic pipe nipple. Show it to the old dude in plumbing if not clear. This will reconnect and get you water tight until permanent fix.

If you're unlucky a one Band-Aid project.

Gary

[guskmg]

As mentioned above open up and take the plumbing out as a unit. Get a new city water fill and connect up and reinstall the unit. The city water fill fixture is a common RV Store item. It probably froze and you did not notice it. I cut a piece of insulating bat and cover the inside of the compartment door with it.
guskmg

[Kamiak]

This is an easy fix, essentially as GCinSC2 described. My 2000 is similar, albeit mirror image. I've replaced mine several times in 21 years, and if yours is original, it's about due. The leak occurs at the seam with the "pressure reducer", actually, it's a flow restrictor. It will do nothing to reduce the pressure inside your coach in a static situation (but that is another discussion). The old city water connection is not repairable. In my experience, they leak at night, then seem to perform during daytime. I assume it has to do with material shrinkage in the cool or cold night air, and expansion during the daytime warmth.

You will need Shurflow part #183-029-18 (white) or #183-029014 "chrome", about 65 psi. they're about $30 +- on Amazon. Once you remove the side panel, you should be able to do an out and in in just a few minutes, provided that you can bend your wrist slightly beyond 90 degrees. No tools are required to separate the pex water line from the back of the city water connection...it's a butterfly nut that you should be able to turn, even with a bent wrist. Frankly, in my experience, it happens often enough that I now carry a spare.

Why do they leak? I can only guess. The Shurflow instructions say to not connect directly to rigid pipe, and instead install a flexible nipple. In my trailer, there's insufficient room behind the city water connection and the inside wall to insert a more flexible connection, plus the trailer's pex line is not easily moved. My unscientific suspicion is that the rigid pex line allows excessive vibration on the city water connection, causing it to ultimately fail.