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12-10-2017, 10:36 AM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member 
2013 20' Flying Cloud
Between Here and There and Nowhere
, what have you got?
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 146
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City water inlet leaking on inside
I'm boondocking and went through a freeze a few days ago. When I got to Death Valley, I noticed the dump valve plumbing was wet with water coming from above. RV is a 2013 fc 20'. Today I removed some sheet metal next to the toilet and, using a remote camera, I could see a small drip coming from the backside of the city water inlet.
I could remove the bathroom sink counter top to get to it but will any RV dealer have a replacement for the guts of it or do I have to go to Airstream dealer?
I see some screws holding the casing halves together with perhaps a gasket in between, so tighting may solve it.
Any input on this unit whatsoever would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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12-10-2017, 11:17 AM
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#2
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4 Rivet Member 
2013 28' International
Bozeman
, Montana
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 466
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I've been through a few of them that started to leak. Not the highest quality item but available from Amazon for pretty cheap. I now just carry a spare. I do wonder if we get too high of water pressure at a campground it causes them to fail.
https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-183-0.../dp/B002OUPFOU
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12-10-2017, 11:27 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master 
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor
, New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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The 20-footer thread has a number of posts with photos for that general area, including the anti-siphon vacuum breaker for the black water flush system. Your 2013 FC20 plumbing layout may be different, but posts from CruizinDux, TCwheels, and our 2014 may help guide the way. If you have the old plastic vacuum breaker, you might consider replacing it if you have to open things up.
Ditto to HeadWest that the city water inlet is probably a fairly generic one, and ditto to get a spare IMO.
Click on the orange arrow to go to this 7/28/17 Post #1895 in the 20-footer thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by vandemusser
. . .
So, I finally had time to work on this issue and ordered the replacement flush kit, which I was happy to learn has upgraded the original plastic anti-siphon valve to a heavy duty brass one.
. . .
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The later posts in that thread should help out with visuals, and links to earlier posts with photos.
Also, this 4/1/17 Post #1604 from TCwheels shows his dinette removed, and other nearby posts go into more detail etc.:
Quote:
Originally Posted by TCwheels
Dinette removed!
. . .
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Also -- vacuum breaker info which will lead to another thread and posts with photos, I think:
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15
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Running out of edit time here, so hopefully the info above will help. Will check in later.
Good luck!
Peter
PS -- Once you go over to the 20-footer thread, if you Quote someone to start a discussion there, others will probably chime in with more feedback. [FYI When you Quote someone, this AF site usually sends an email to the poster, notifying them that they have been quoted.]
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12-10-2017, 11:46 AM
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#4
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3 Rivet Member 
2013 20' Flying Cloud
Between Here and There and Nowhere
, what have you got?
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 146
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I was able to remove the unit from outside and very slightly tighten down the four screws that hold it together. Maybe this will help but I will look for this unit at my next stop which maybe Yuma Arizona. This was great help thank you
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12-10-2017, 12:40 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master 
Currently Looking...
Walnut Creek
, California
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 3,952
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That is how a 23 owner addressed his similar problem when working on the Grand Canyon North Rim. The permanent solution is a straight through city water port, an internal adjustable pressure reguator and an expansion tank. Pat
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12-10-2017, 05:27 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master 
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Washington
, Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,593
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openroad118, Pat's(PKI), is faster than Wyatt Earp. I remembered the thread (as I figured I'd be there or at the BW back flo some day too) and that he had commented (always helpful & informative)...lots of open range land for that search...but finally...wish had remembered the GC reference.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...et-167804.html
Let us know how this works out if you have to replace.
happy trails
Bob
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12-11-2017, 11:41 AM
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#7
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Per P.
2011 28' Flying Cloud
Snohomish
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 7
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We had a similar issues on our 28' FC. It was simple to fix from the outside (after worrying for 3 days i was going to have to remove furniture). I took off the 4 screws and pulled it out just enough to tighten the threaded pipe fitting. That was all it took and it's been good for the last 6 months. I did put new sealant around the flange when i tightened it back up.
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12-11-2017, 06:38 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master 
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Washington
, Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,593
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[QUOTE=Pragnar2;2044449]We had a similar issues on our 28' FC. It was simple to fix from the outside (after worrying for 3 days i was going to have to remove furniture). I took off the 4 screws and pulled it out just enough to tighten the threaded pipe fitting. That was all it took and it's been good for the last 6 months. I did put new sealant around the flange when i tightened it back up.
Pragnar2, is this aftermarket as opposed to AS oem?
Bob
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12-11-2017, 08:55 PM
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#9
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:SPACE A" S/O 11 Air19745
2006 34' Classic S/O
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,766
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The city water valve is a staple item at all RV parts stores. On my Classic, if you take the the input valve/pressure regulator and water faucet out as a whole it is a lot easier to work on in the cramped compartment. My city intake had frozen enough to separate the halves enough for them to leak. it is a good idea to tighten all the fittings before reassembly. Be sure and blow out the city inlet with compressed air with the faucet valve open to expel any water left in line when you winterize. When I blow my system I have already disconnected the water pump outlet so that is where I let that part of the plumbing drain.
guskmg
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12-11-2017, 10:15 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master 
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Longmont
, Colorado
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,194
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As guskmg says, the fitting can leak between the two yellow plastic pieces. I remember seeing at least one other thread here where someone fixed their leak by tightening the four screws on the back of the fixture.
Mine leaked this way, and I replaced before I realized there was a possibility of fixing it with those screws. After I installed the new one, I went back in and snugged up the screws. I hope that postpones my next leak.
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12-12-2017, 07:03 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master 
2014 27' FB Eddie Bauer
Chelsea
, Michigan
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSquared
As guskmg says, the fitting can leak between the two yellow plastic pieces. I remember seeing at least one other thread here where someone fixed their leak by tightening the four screws on the back of the fixture.
Mine leaked this way, and I replaced before I realized there was a possibility of fixing it with those screws. After I installed the new one, I went back in and snugged up the screws. I hope that postpones my next leak.
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Sometimes the unit can be fixed by tightening those four screws on the back. In my case that did not fix the leak so I ordered a new unit from Amazon and it took about 10 minutes to replace.
__________________
Bob Martel
WBCCI# 5766
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01-19-2019, 09:04 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master 

2017 27' Flying Cloud
Greer
, South Carolina
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 513
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Sealant
When replacing what is the recommended sealant between outlet and aluminum ?
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01-19-2019, 02:21 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master 
1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cispook
When replacing what is the recommended sealant between outlet and aluminum ?
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In theory, there is a gasket there, so you shouldn't need anything else. In practice, I'd run a bead of your favorite sealant around the perimeter. I like sikaflex 221.
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01-19-2019, 05:54 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master 

2017 27' Flying Cloud
Greer
, South Carolina
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGreatleys
In theory, there is a gasket there, so you shouldn't need anything else. In practice, I'd run a bead of your favorite sealant around the perimeter. I like sikaflex 221.
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Thanks - appreciate the input
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01-20-2019, 01:35 PM
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#15
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3 Rivet Member 
2013 28' Flying Cloud
Penn Yan
, New York
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 140
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Regulator
Easy fix. I had the same leak hitting the waste valves. Order a new ShurFlo regulator. Mine was a 183-29. You can look on the outside of the city water inlet and see the label.
When u get the regulator, just remove the 4 screws pull the regulator out and disconnect the water line fitting.
I removed the neoprene gasket very carefully and reinstalled it in the new regulator.
While I waited for the new regulator to arrive by mail,
I removed the 4 screws of the regulator and pulled the regulator out of the wall to allow it to leak outside the Airstream.
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01-26-2019, 05:23 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master 
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Washington
, Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,593
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[QUOTE=OTRA15;2044122]The 20-footer thread has a number of posts with photos for that general area, including the anti-siphon vacuum breaker for the black water flush system. Your 2013 FC20 plumbing layout may be different, but posts from CruizinDux, TCwheels, and our 2014 may help guide the way. If you have the old plastic vacuum breaker, you might consider replacing it if you have to open things up.
Ditto to HeadWest that the city water inlet is probably a fairly generic one, and ditto to get a spare IMO.
Click on the orange arrow to go to this 7/28/17 Post #1895 in the 20-footer thread:
The later posts in that thread should help out with visuals, and links to earlier posts with photos.]
So add me to the list. Meanwhile i'll swing by CW for a drop down spray head until i go head to head sith the dinette access.
B
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01-27-2019, 04:06 PM
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#17
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2 Rivet Member 
2013 20' Flying Cloud
minneapolis
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by openroad118
I was able to remove the unit from outside and very slightly tighten down the four screws that hold it together. Maybe this will help but I will look for this unit at my next stop which maybe Yuma Arizona. This was great help thank you
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I have done the same thing. You should be able to get it removed from the outside. I used a hair dryer to dry the insulation. Retightening it lasted a week until a new one came in and I retirqued those screws before install
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