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Old 04-22-2021, 08:07 AM   #21
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2006 25' Safari FB SE
Spokane , Washington
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,859
I just replaced my water inlet device. Purchased a new one from our Airstream dealer and I noticed that the built in screen is indeed built in. On the original there was a screened washer that would regularly get clogged with "stuff". It was easy to remove and clean. Now, the screen is permanent. I will install one of the washer screens in the supply hose in hopes that a clog there will be easy to take care of.


The replacement has a regulator set at 65 psi, just like the original. I didn't see any other options on the shelf at the dealer. If I had an alde system, you think there would be an option. I am at that age now where I question whether or not all these "improvements" are worth it. Hot water heating, on demand water heaters, electric only fridge, power awnings......?
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Old 05-04-2021, 01:52 PM   #22
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2020 30' Classic
2015 25' Flying Cloud
Blue Ridge , Georgia
Join Date: Mar 2016
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30' Classic 2020, not pleased with shower water pressure. Flow increases to what I consider normal when turning on the water pump only problem is it uses up the fresh water tank faster. Going to try and measure psi at the shower head both with city water and fresh water pump on. Any other suggestions? Previous 25'FC did not have the same problem.
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Old 05-05-2021, 12:29 PM   #23
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2019 30' Classic
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Crested Butte , Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gleverett View Post
30' Classic 2020, not pleased with shower water pressure. Flow increases to what I consider normal when turning on the water pump the only problem is it uses up the fresh water tank faster. Going to try and measure psi at the showerhead both with city water and fresh water pump on. Any other suggestions? Previous 25'FC did not have the same problem.
I have the same problem and have since new. I have tried everything. I finally gave up and installed a different low-flow showerhead. My shower now is tolerable, not great. The pressure at my kitchen sink is poor too. I find the pressure in the bathroom is good. No idea what is happening after the tubing leaves the bathroom sink.
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Old 05-05-2021, 02:10 PM   #24
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2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Froglips View Post
I have the same problem and have since new. I have tried everything. I finally gave up and installed a different low-flow showerhead. My shower now is tolerable, not great. The pressure at my kitchen sink is poor too. I find the pressure in the bathroom is good. No idea what is happening after the tubing leaves the bathroom sink.
Hi

This is a very normal sort of plumbing problem. There is an issue somewhere in the pipes. Part of "trying everything" is to diagnose what that issue is and fix it. Typically this involves tracing the flow from the input through the various lines. At some point you will find one that has a problem. Fix that and you have adequate flow (assuming the pressure into the trailer is up around 40 to 50 pounds like it should be ....).

Bob
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Old 05-05-2021, 05:17 PM   #25
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2000 25' Excella
Northern , California
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 247
My experiences with low flow at some or all faucets relates more to a volume problem, rather than pressure per se, and can be traced to accumulated flow restriction from one (or more) of the following:

(1) Crystallized pink anti-freeze in the aerators and nozzles. The solution is to disassemble and clean those parts that you can, and replace those that you can’t clean. Because of this tendency to crystallize, I remove all aerators and nozzles during winterization, and replace them after flushing in the spring;
(2) Use of an external pressure reducer/flow restrictor in addition to the city water pressure reducer (flow restrictor) typically installed at the trailer’s city water connection. Remove the external pressure reducer/flow restrictor;
(3) The presence of some other flow restrictor, perhaps a removable washer, sometimes found in some water fixtures. Remove any removable restrictor as these restrictions add up, and you simply run out of volume;
(4) A defective vacuum breaker where the shower hose enters the shower stall wall. Replace as needed;
(5) The city water hose bib is not fully on, turn it on full;
(6) Replace the shower wand head typically installed in most RV’s with an Oxygenics shower head. It won’t necessarily allow an increase in actual water flow, but it will magically blend water and air to give a satisfactory sensation of increased water pressure and soap removal.

Since most RV park and campground water supply lines are galvanized at the riser, I always turn the spigots on for a few seconds to discharge any loose particles. I use a single-stage filter at my city water connection, and at season’s end, I’ve never noticed any accumulated particles that would cause a flow problem. I have 85 psi at home, and I have experienced low flow issues inside my trailer, even at that pressure, generally at the shower or the kitchen. The solution has been one or more of the items above. In my experience, most parks/campgrounds have either satisfactory or low water pressure (just like electricity), but campground low pressure has never been a source of problems inside my trailer. I have never encountered high water pressure in my camping experiences in the west, and we typically use our Airstream about 50/nights per year, 98% of the time on hookups. If you have to turn on your pump to acquire satisfactory pressure inside, then something is wrong…either one or more of the things above, or a more serious problem like a kink or a leak. The latter should be obvious by now.

I hope this helps. Others may have encountered other common, solvable problem sources to investigate before tearing out walls.
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