Checking for a Leak - City Water??

[PharmGeek]

So, this may be a "dumb question"...but

I had damaged my water pump over winter from one darn freeze we got and I did not winterize

I fixed that, and the pump pressurizes the system and no more cycling of the pump

I have not hooked up to "city water" since all this, I have a trip planned in less than 2 weeks....and my question is this:

While I have ruled out further damages and subsequent leak by using the water pump...could I have damaged something specific to the city water that would not show up using the water pump?

So while there are no leaks from damages through the water pump, is it possible (or "likely") that I could hook up to city water and water starts coming out somewhere from that?

I suppose the water pump route services all the same faucets and such, so it is a shared path of water...I am assuming that the route for the city water is only a tad different, but not exactly sure.

Also, it has made me wonder if there is an easy way to see while hooked up to city water, and all faucets and such closed, if water is indeed flowing at all much, to let you know if pressure is changing over time with a leak?

Thanks...probably just a paranoid question, but I REALLY do not like the idea of water spewing out somewhere without me knowing.

[Chuck]

Yes.
But only the length of pipe that goes from the city water connection in to wherever the first check-valve in the system is located.

Picture the system this way:

|-->>city water-->> check valve-->>---all your fixtures that use water--<<---check valve---<<water pump--<<----water tank

I don't know exactly how your particular make/model is put together; the check valve on the city-water end might actually be built in to the connection. On my vintage trailer, the city hookup is just a hose connection to a length of pipe that is about a foot long, and is oriented in a vertical fashion; it enters the trailer from under the floor, goes straight up to an elbow to the horizontal, where it connects to a check valve, then the pressure regulator.
I had that length of pipe freeze and split one year when I forgot to take the cap/plug off the hose connection, and let the water drain out. (/face-palm)

Anyway, from your description, the plumbing between the check valves is ok.

[Wingeezer]

One thing I can think of .....

The pump has an internal check so as to prevent city water back-flowing and flling your fresh water tank to the point of over flowing.

Depending on what you had to do to get your pump working - there might be an issue with that.

If water overflows back out the fresh water tank fill pipe vent when you are hooked up to city water that there remains a problem in that respect !

[KJRitchie]

Why not connect to your house hold water and check now? The internal pressure regulator could be damaged from the freeze. Also check the blank tank flush. If the one way check valve in that line froze with water in it the valve may have a crack. You should have access to it to inspect. First time I used my black tank flush water pour out the bottom. Previous owner may not have pushed air into it when winterizing. I replaced the valve with a elbow piece of plastic pipe.

Kelvin

[PharmGeek]

I can hook up to my city water at home tonight, and want to do that....but want to know what to look for before I do...

With the water pump..it is easy...you can HEAR it cycling...so sit, wait, listen...but with city water, I guess I would just hook it up, look behind the sink for something leaking?

I have not seen any evidence of the black tank and associated tid bits being damaged, but perhaps it has damage, maybe the grey tank and such too...

I guess, it were damaged since that winter freeze...if it still contains the leftovers of water I had and tank treatment, then there was likely no leak right? Same for the grey tank I would think....IF both are dry right now...Houston we have a problem.

I am not entirely sure I am thinking about these systems right, but I just want to know what to look for specifically....

[vintagemotor]

Airstream uses the water inlet with regulator built right in, this will leak if it is broken when the pump is on, so you are fine there. Hook up to your city water at home, but before you turn it on open up the access to the water pump so that you can see right away if there is an issue. Hopefully you put some pic tape around the threads of the fitting connectors when you changed the pump, those are famous for leaking shortly after a pump replacement. Also make sure that your commode flushes properly as Domestic puts a sneaky little freeze valve in the flush mechanism that will not leak, but will make the flush inoperable.
You'll be fine! Happy Camping!

[OTRA15]

Yes, you might have had a freeze just behind the city water intake, including the pressure regulator and nearby plumbing.

Simple to diagnose.

Hook up to city water and make sure the ground/driveway under the trailer is dry. Leave water on overnight, with the hose bib cracked open just enough to let water flow if there is a small leak (and not cause a gusher if the leak gets worse overnight).

Look for puddles in the driveway tomorrow morning, or inside the trailer on the floor, dripping from the belly pan, etc..

Remember, it's just water! A day or two of water trapped inside the trailer someplace will not cause rot or mold, if you dry it out properly. Turn the heat on high for a day. Use a dehumidifier or Dampp Chaser to dry things out under shore power.

https://www.amazon.com/Dampp-Chaser-...s=dampp+chaser

These work great -- we leave a couple in our trailer all winter to keep things fresh and dry. Very low wattage but they do the trick.

Good luck and have a great trip!

Peter

[PharmGeek]

It's raining right now so my check of things will wait till weekend

Thanks everyone