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Old 03-07-2014, 09:22 PM   #21
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1971 27' Overlander
Dickinson , North Dakota
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So back on task. What I ended up doing was cut about 1/4 inch off of the vent that was protruding out of the outer skin. While I had the vent out I powder coated it and tried to clean up the vent fan the best I could. I hope to put the fan back in tomorrow and then see how I can best align the zip dee cover with the existing rivet holes and layout. I will have to rivet the old holes and then seal the new ones for this cover. Quick question.. What should be the sealant applied between the new vent cover and the skin?? Previously it looked like it was some kind of double sided tape. I was thinking butyl tape but would love some experienced help here!!

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Ms. Streamy - 1971 Overlander Restoration Blog
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Old 03-08-2014, 06:31 AM   #22
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1981 31' Excella II
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I would use Trempro-635 as the sealant or similar polyurethane caulk.

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Old 03-09-2014, 10:13 AM   #23
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We had a break from the weather yesterday and I was able to finish up a few looming projects. Including this vent installation. The key really was removing the stove vent totally and cutting a little bit off of the stack to keep it just above the outside skin by about 1/16th of an inch. What I did was take a sharpie and scribe around the stack prior to removal. I had to remove the fan mount and re rivet it at the new lower location. After reinstalling the stove vent assembly, I ran a bead of Vulkem around the rim and filled a couple of the old rivet holes. I drilled the new cover for 10 rivets to hold it in place and 'buttered' the back with Vulkem. The rest went fairly routine. The top edge of the fan vent is even with the cover where it starts to bulge. I can cross that project off the list and am ready for an awning. Click image for larger version

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Ms. Streamy - 1971 Overlander Restoration Blog
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Old 03-09-2014, 12:35 PM   #24
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1981 31' Excella II
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You need to seal those pop rivets with something like Parbond. Water can leak through the hole in the center as well as around the edge. Parbond is also good to seal around the edges.

Nice job by the way.

Perry
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Old 03-10-2014, 11:46 AM   #25
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Thanks Perry! I meant to add sealing the rivets to my procedure above. Must have forgot. I didn't add the Parbond yet to seal the rivets as the temps are too cold for it to flow down into the rivet. It is parked inside so I'm not worried about it for now but I will have them sealed before I take it outdoors. I wish I could have bucked them but didn't want that big of a project. Are there any blind rivets that you could expect to have a sealed head on?
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:41 PM   #26
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The Olympic rivets, I am told will seal if you put some Trempro around them when they are inserted. You have to have special tools to dome the rivets on those rivets. They are not as good as buck rivets. I just used stainless steel screws on my patch so I could remove them. The Trempro seems to have sealed around the shafts well.

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Old 03-10-2014, 03:45 PM   #27
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SCREWS! Genius! Never even crossed my mind! Well guess what is going in if I ever have to remove it for some reason!
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