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Old 06-29-2007, 03:54 PM   #21
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Artstream,

Thanks to your photos and the factory assembly instructions my wife and I got our Zip Dee window awning installed in about 3 hours. The only way we differed from you was not using your two types of goop. We used clear silicon caulk/sealer instead....the same thing we and our dealer use to seal leaks.

So thanks for your help.
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Old 06-29-2007, 05:05 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antique Pedaler
We used clear silicon caulk/sealer instead....
the same thing we and our dealer use to seal leaks...
i agree michaels how2visual is pretty good.

not to open a can'oworms but surely you've read here the issues related to sealants and aluminum.

as in clear silicon DOES NOT 'seal leaks' well or at all?

while the reasons are convoluted (acetic acid in the sealant) most seem to agree...

polyurethane sealants adhere better? seal better? and just work better with our exterior bauxite bits...

zip dees are still aluminum right?

and once silicone sealants have been applied and failed,

it's a BEEEEECH to resolve because every last bit must be removed with solvents or abrasives...

before resealing with the right stuff...

common sealant gurus, is this true or a/s urban legend?

cheers
2air
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Old 06-29-2007, 07:15 PM   #23
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Great job Michael and great step by step. Looks great. Makes me wonder why I didn't have that added when built....it does keep the Airstream cooler when in direct sunlight!
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Old 06-29-2007, 08:56 PM   #24
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Enjoyed the play by play Michael. Just wondering if Irv is available for other awning installations, if he brings his tool with him, and how much he drinks during the process .

Thanks

Barry
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Old 06-30-2007, 06:40 AM   #25
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Don't break the yoke

Thanks for all the kudos folks, it was a fun project!

Barry, I passed, along your request to Irv. He"ll be checking his schedule and tightening up his "yoke" as long as you supply the "Moose Tryipings" and "Old Milwaukee" beer, Irv is from Wisconsin you see

Michael


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Quote:
Originally Posted by safari57
Enjoyed the play by play Michael. Just wondering if Irv is available for other awning installations, if he brings his tool with him, and how much he drinks during the process .

Thanks

Barry
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Old 06-30-2007, 08:02 AM   #26
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You know, I may really consider this more seriously. I took a look at the Safari and Airstream seems to have put the top awing rail on up top already on the streetside. So looking at your methods, I may be able to skip some of the steps. I may put a call out to Zip Dee and see what that price might be and how brave I'm feeling. But I'll be honest, it took this from for sure having someone else do it to, hey, I may give it a wack! If that rail isn't the right one, it may be for an actual full size awning. Might go that route too.
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Old 06-30-2007, 08:32 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie
You know, I may really consider this more seriously. I took a look at the Safari and Airstream seems to have put the top awing rail on up top already on the streetside. So looking at your methods, I may be able to skip some of the steps. I may put a call out to Zip Dee and see what that price might be and how brave I'm feeling. But I'll be honest, it took this from for sure having someone else do it to, hey, I may give it a wack! If that rail isn't the right one, it may be for an actual full size awning. Might go that route too.
Twink, I have seen that railing on some of the newer trailers. I have also seen streetside awnings on these units and they added an additional rail and did not use the one installed at the factory. The one from the factory appears to be upside down.
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Old 06-30-2007, 08:35 AM   #28
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Bummer, it did seem too good to be true....thanks for pointing that one out!
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Old 06-30-2007, 09:37 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie
You know, I may really consider this more seriously. I took a look at the Safari and Airstream seems to have put the top awing rail on up top already on the streetside. So looking at your methods, I may be able to skip some of the steps. I may put a call out to Zip Dee and see what that price might be and how brave I'm feeling. But I'll be honest, it took this from for sure having someone else do it to, hey, I may give it a wack! If that rail isn't the right one, it may be for an actual full size awning. Might go that route too.
Hey Twink

The awning rail on the street side that is opposite of the one that they use for the patio awning is there for another patio awning. It does NOT work for the window awnings. You still have to add a new awning rail for the window awnings on the street side. I tried to use this rail when I installed my street-side window awning on the 19CCD, but other than being too high to be effective for shade, the arms are not properly bent to allow you to use the top rail.
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Old 06-30-2007, 10:12 AM   #30
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Lew, thanks for clearing that up. I had seen that extra rail. I thought it was also mounted upside down as well...
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Old 06-30-2007, 10:21 AM   #31
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function of the extra rail?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
The awning rail on the street side that is opposite of the one that they use for the patio awning is there for another patio awning...
i agree the rail is of the style used on the patio awning...

and too high for the narrower awnings...

but are you sure that's WHY it is installed?

my guess is that the ridge it creates, serves as a rain gutter/channel...

and provides a site/relief line for the white roof panel.

without it the white panel is easily seen and distracting.

has ne1 ever asked/confirmed it's function with a/s corp?

now that the main ribs are 3 pieces there is another channel section/seam there too...

does it interact somehow with the rid/skin/channel junction on each side?

cheers
2air'
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Old 06-30-2007, 10:55 AM   #32
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Just like Alexandria

The original reasoning and or knowledge for/of the standard road side railing awning install has been lost in time.


Just as, much of the old design and engineering which has been carried over to the new Airstreams has.



The other guy told me to do it that way?



(IMHO)



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Old 09-07-2007, 03:32 PM   #33
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Just had Airstream (factory in Jackson Center) install a streetside and rear Zip Dee awnings on my 06 Safari. Saw this configuration on a 23' Safari earlier this year and thought they looked great. The street side is lower than the curb side, but it really shades the trailer.
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:13 PM   #34
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Loose Roadside Awning

Just finished reading this excellent tutorial by ArtStream. In #11 he states that after you have the awning centered that you install small SS screws in the awning rail. Am I correct that these are installed in the ends of the rail? I've discovered that my awning - installed at Jackson Center in Oct '09 is loose and sliding in the rail. There are no screws in mine - it appears that they crimped the ends of the rail to hold the awning centered. I tried crimping the rail a bit more at each end but it is still loose and will slide about an inch towards the rear of the trailer. Suggestions?
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:26 PM   #35
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yes a stop screw at each end is a good thing.

stainless with a bit of sealant or anti seize on the threads,

and watch for depth, make sure the threads are fully engaged INSIDE the rail tube.

alum screws may also be satifactory,

but the ones on my unit are stainless.

they are on all 5 awnings and 1 of them need work loose a few years ago,

but was REtightened. they can fall out.

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:58 PM   #36
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Thanks 2air. I installed screws in each end but the awning is still loose. Will keep a close eye on this and unless someone else comes up with an idea I'll leave it for the factory to take care of next May. Just out of curiosity I checked the back window awning on mine and no screws in it - the ends of the rail are crimped together to hold it in place. At least it's tight and won't move. Maybe because of the fact the screws can work loose this is the way they're installed by the factory now.
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:06 PM   #37
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Just from my experiences:
We pulled down roadside and the front and back end ZipDee awnings off of ours during polishing and for repairs. The slats and rails all have screws in the ends to keep the slats from coming out. Since the slats on ours are about an inch shorter than the rails mounted to the AS, there is a little movement allowed but the screws keep the slats from working out of each other and the main rail. As long as you have something to keep the slats from coming out, it should be ok (crimp, screws, etc.).

Artstream,
Thanks for the detailed process. It helped us when we were taking ours up and down.
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Old 12-31-2010, 12:47 AM   #38
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Old 05-29-2016, 10:25 PM   #39
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I'm going to install a road side awning and need to know the correct position of the arm castings
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Old 11-18-2017, 06:12 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtStream View Post
Following the instructions I turned the arm head casting to preload tension to the awning roller spring.

Then the head castings are bolted to the arms and lock-tite applied to the Stainless Steel bolts.
Resurrecting a 11 year old thread:
I'm going to remove the awnings on my Excella pretty soon. When I re-install them I will need to tension the roller springs, but I have no experience at this.

Could someone elaborate a little more on how this tensioning is done. I am asking specifically about street side and rear window awnings, not the patio awnings.
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