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Old 05-20-2023, 09:04 PM   #1
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2000 19' Bambi
2018 23' International
Auburn , Maine
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Relax awning arm replacement

Sometime this week Iím going to undertake to replace the forward arm on the ZipDee Relax awning on our 2018 International Serenity 23FB Queen. It looks like a pretty straightforward job, assuming that the wiring is accessible under the head of the bed, as I believe it is. But I thought Iíd ask here if anyone has done this and has any tips to make the job go as smoothly as possible. Any advice out there?
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Old 05-21-2023, 02:51 AM   #2
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I called ZipDee before I switched my rafter arms around. They were very helpful with details on things to watch out for.
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Old 05-21-2023, 09:44 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by majorairhead View Post
I called ZipDee before I switched my rafter arms around. They were very helpful with details on things to watch out for.
Iím very impressed with their customer service folks. They were incredibly helpful in troubleshooting my awning.
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Old 05-21-2023, 11:11 AM   #4
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Yep. Call Zip Dee. I once spent an hour on the phone with Randy while we walked through a tricky situation that he had not encountered. At one point he checked with manufacturing to get input. Ultimately we agreed that the only solution was to execute the risky, somewhat dangerous procedure as safely as we could. I had to remove the rear head casing without releasing tension. It had been damaged.

Support the loose end of the roller with a heavy step-ladder.. Securely tie the roller to the step-ladder; you don't want that thing getting away from you. You don't want the whole shebang to hit the trailer so maybe put some weight on the bottom step and brace of the ladder. I don't know what the instructions say, but I'd remove the other rafter too. They bend very easily and are costly to replace. Lube the rafters while they are off. Replace the rubber bumpers.
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Old 05-21-2023, 07:42 PM   #5
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2000 19' Bambi
2018 23' International
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fungus View Post
Yep. Call Zip Dee. I once spent an hour on the phone with Randy while we walked through a tricky situation that he had not encountered. At one point he checked with manufacturing to get input. Ultimately we agreed that the only solution was to execute the risky, somewhat dangerous procedure as safely as we could. I had to remove the rear head casing without releasing tension. It had been damaged.

Support the loose end of the roller with a heavy step-ladder.. Securely tie the roller to the step-ladder; you don't want that thing getting away from you. You don't want the whole shebang to hit the trailer so maybe put some weight on the bottom step and brace of the ladder. I don't know what the instructions say, but I'd remove the other rafter too. They bend very easily and are costly to replace. Lube the rafters while they are off. Replace the rubber bumpers.
This is all great advice. Thank you.

Randy is an absolute gem. He worked with me to diagnose this problem and was really a model of what a support person ought to be.
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Old 05-22-2023, 02:26 PM   #6
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Wiring is tight and hard to get to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by majorairhead View Post
I called ZipDee before I switched my rafter arms around. They were very helpful with details on things to watch out for.
Yes, I have replaced the relaxed awning power arm on our 2015 30RB, the wiring was in the front behind a 1"cap and there were a couple of concerns for me.
1. All those wires had to come out a 1" hole through the aluminum skin and I cut myself more than once working them through the hole.
2. There are some seriously mismatched wiring going on where you have to connect a very small 22 gauge wire with a 16/14 gauge wire
3. Has to do with a combination of 1 and 2, I was afraid once I got the mismatched wires securely connected, they would get pulled apart or cut pushing them back into the 1" sharp hole.

Everything else was pretty straight forward.
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Old 05-22-2023, 02:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsatwork View Post
All those wires had to come out a 1" hole through the aluminum skin and I cut myself more than once working them through the hole.
To avoid the inevitable cuts and potential damage to wires, line the cut-out with electrical tape.
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