There have been various posts regarding Zip Dee Relax power awning failures and incidents of self-deployment while underway. After we had a failure that caused extensive damage to our AS we had the repairing AS dealer install a power cutoff switch so that there would be no way for the awning to deploy on its own. We now have the latest updated control board that will hopefully solve the motor failure problem. BTW, Zip Dee recommends the installation of their awnings with a power isolation switch, it is disappointing that AS does not install the awnings as such.
We found an additional issue with the awning because of the way in which we use our AS. We have solar, therefore, when we are on city power we have our battery switch in the "Store" position so that we don't cook the batteries with the one stage converter/charger. Our batteries are always fully charged with the solar so we don't have the need to replace the converter/charger with a three stage. Now, to the additional issue. If the awning is deployed when we are breaking camp, and I don't remember to switch the battery to "Use" before unplugging shore power, the interruption of power (which also could happen at any time with campground power interruption) to the awning causes the awning to lose its index and it's a finger crossing few minutes to get the awning to fully close. The last time this happened it took three attempts to get the awning to fully close and show close on the control panel. If anyone else has this issue, following is a fix.
I decided to make the process idiot proof by direct wiring the awning power isolation switch to the battery. The closest direct 12V
power is the propane detector. There is a 14 gauge wire from the power distribution block under the bed with a glass fuse holder with a 1A fuse attached to furthest stud from the lift up bed platform. It is impossible to reach this stud, unless you have the body of an anorexic model, without disconnecting the gas lifts on the bed platform and propping the hatch open at a higher angle. Once you access this stud, remove the fuse holder and cut the wire at the crimp connector between the 14 gauge wire and fuse holder. Replace this with an automotive standard ATC fuse holder and 10A fuse. Remove the bottom drawer above the propane detector and cut the power wire and insert the 1A fuse holder. Remove the awning power isolation switch and feed a 14 or 16 gauge wire through the switch hole and down through the opening where the kitchen plumbing penetrates the under sink shelf compartment. Feed the wire to the 1A fuse holder and crimp it to the power end of the holder with the 14 gauge power wire. Crimp a spade connector on the other end of the wire, remove the existing power wire from the isolation switch, tape the end and plug in the new power wire. This, of course, is the procedure for a 25FB and you will need the appropriate butt, ring and spade connectors, side cutters, wire strippers and a crimping tool.