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Old 05-11-2021, 12:40 AM   #21
Rivet Master
 
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor , New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 17,523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilPeanut View Post
. . .
. . . it’s what I break while fixing things that takes most of the time.
. . .
Copy that!

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Old 05-11-2021, 12:15 PM   #22
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1981 31' Excella II
Tallahassee , Florida
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 61
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Originally Posted by SeeMore View Post
Heads up LynneC... awnings and wind never mix and that is because the awning basically becomes an unbridled sail in breezes above 12mph. Although 'LandYacht' is an Airstream term, they certainly aren't intended to mimic sailboat rigging!

Put the awning away whenever the wind kicks up or you are away from your trailer or else you risk thousands in damage.

The proper technique deploying or collapsing your awning will reduce the effort to a single person task rather than the gargantuan effort you describe. Instructions can be found here:

https://bit.ly/3y0EYXm

One of the shell patches I've done on our reno is where the bottom awning pole attaches to the shell. Apparently the previous owner left the awning out on a windy day. There was a 1" rip underneath the mounting hardware.
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Old 05-11-2021, 04:45 PM   #23
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1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
harrisburg , Missouri
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I don't know about an 1981, but when I decided to put a ZipDee awning on my 1955 overlander, the first thing I figured out was that the original buck riveted awning rail was 6 inches too low. I had to drill out the rivets for my railing and re install the rail 6" higher. luckily I had not put my interior skins back in yet so it was not that big a deal. So the answer is yes its the same awning rail, but it may not be in the right place so if you think you are going to put on a new awning then either go ahead and get what you want and install it now or make sure you know how high it needs to be and install the new rail at the correct height.
Aaron
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Old 05-13-2021, 12:48 PM   #24
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Elk Grove Village , Illinois
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Hey there, Zip Dee here!

Drilling out rivets shouldn't be too hard, but I wouldn't rush into it. If you ever decide to add an awning (and in my humble opinion - you definitely should) It will be easy to drill them out and install the new rail. Your new awning will come with a new rail anyway. If you have any questions, or are just looking for some moral support, give us a call at 847-437-0980! We'll be happy to talk to you!
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Old 05-14-2021, 01:50 AM   #25
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
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Thanks for chiming in . . .

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Old 05-15-2021, 05:05 AM   #26
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1981 31' Excella II
Tallahassee , Florida
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Originally Posted by ZipDee2020 View Post
Hey there, Zip Dee here!

Drilling out rivets shouldn't be too hard, but I wouldn't rush into it. If you ever decide to add an awning (and in my humble opinion - you definitely should) It will be easy to drill them out and install the new rail. Your new awning will come with a new rail anyway. If you have any questions, or are just looking for some moral support, give us a call at 847-437-0980! We'll be happy to talk to you!
Well thanks ZipDee. You'll be hearing from us soon.
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Old 05-15-2021, 08:48 AM   #27
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1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
harrisburg , Missouri
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Let me offer some advice that will help you to have a good experience with your ZipDee awning. 1st, My ZipDee awning did not "come with" a new rail as suggested above. They will certainly sell you a new one when you buy your awning, but if your old one is in good shape, you can save a few dollars by just reusing your original. your choice. 2nd, if your interior skins are off then buck riveting your awning rail on is the best practice for achieving leak free rivets. Adding the rail later means using olympic rivets which are more prone to leak if not carefully sealed. if your interior skins are in, then that is the only choice and yes, you can add it at any time.
Hear are some additional tips: When they tell you to measure the length for your awning they will tell you to measure from center of the rivet to center of rivet where the awning will be installed. I measured this down at the floor level, but get a couple ladders and some help and measure this up at the height of the awning because my ribs were 1/2" narrower up at the top than down at the floor level. That made mounting the lock down clamps very difficult. luckily the interior skins were not in yet so I was able to add additional structure where necessary to make this work. 2nd , They suggested that I make a template of the exterior curve of the trailer so they could get the main arm angles bent perfect. I chose not to do this. Bad idea. Maybe its because mine is a 55, but I figured they had made enough of these that it would be right. They were close, but close is not good enough. They need to be exact. Bent too much and the awning head hits the trailer before it will engage in the lock. Not enough and the arms will not make it far enough to get to the locks. If they tell you to make a template of the side of your 81, then do that. 3rd. My overlander has a window just forward of the door that goes all the way to the front rib. In my case, the support arm mounts to the left of the main support arm and is in front of the window, so you can not open that window unless the awning is deployed, or you would have to remove the support arm if you wanted to open that window with the awning rolled up. Not a big deal but you need to know that if you have a window next to either the front or back rib, then the window is not going to open with the awning rolled up.
These are things I learned when installing my ZipDee a few months ago on my 1955 overlander. Some will be the same for you while others may not apply. Hopefully it will make your installation way easier than mine.
Aaron
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Old 05-16-2021, 04:44 PM   #28
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1981 31' Excella II
Tallahassee , Florida
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Posts: 61
Aaron, thanks for the description of how to properly measure for an awning system. Thankfully there was an awning previously attached to our Airstream. We have the support arms, just not the spring-loaded cylinder & fabric awning. So hopefully getting a replacement won't be too frustrating.

MaryPat
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