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Old 08-10-2013, 11:30 AM   #21
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I have broken two of these claw deals (well my son actually broke one of them). They are really pretty chintzy. Pot metal. Of course they do provide a continual stream of income for Zip Dee.
Hmmm... So, would you rather have the claws built stiff and strong so that the square tubing arm would break instead of an easily-replaced claw?

Not me. I prefer to think they do it in that fashion to avoid much more costly repairs that would more difficult to do...
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Old 08-10-2013, 04:22 PM   #22
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I would prefer a better engineered product and would be willing to pay a premium price to get it right the first time. Of course you could opt for the several thousand dollar electric awning and make the problem disappear.
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Old 08-10-2013, 05:27 PM   #23
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Replace claws

I broke one the first time I used my awning.
I machines two new ones of aluminum and they are strong not some cheap casting.
If I ever break one again I will machine them out of Stainless steel and then they should never break.

Helps if you can machine.

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Old 08-10-2013, 05:34 PM   #24
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Like Aage said, this is intended to be a sacrificial part. The forces on a fully deployed awning in a thunderstorm are pretty big - better to lose that claw than a whole arm.

That said, given that it seems like the claw can easily crack if you don't stow the awning right (the claw sits on the smaller diameter nub, not the thicker piece) - maybe the design could be better. All the same, after my mechanic spotted one that was about to fail, I now have 2 spares in the trailer.

Tom
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:20 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mutcth View Post
Like Aage said, this is intended to be a sacrificial part. The forces on a fully deployed awning in a thunderstorm are pretty big - better to lose that claw than a whole arm.

That said, given that it seems like the claw can easily crack if you don't stow the awning right (the claw sits on the smaller diameter nub, not the thicker piece) - maybe the design could be better. All the same, after my mechanic spotted one that was about to fail, I now have 2 spares in the trailer.

Tom
^
X2

Stow and deploy correctly.

Bob
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Old 08-10-2013, 07:49 PM   #26
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I've had four broken over three A/S' in the last five years. I now carry a couple of spares. They do not fit tight and although I make sure mine are stowed on the small part of the pin, yada yada, they have still broken. The pot metal is a poor design and if I could machine a replacement I would do so as well. I'd worry about the some other part of the awning breaking later but I wouldn't be replacing those cheesy hooks any more. Of course then you have to carry the tools to punch the pin out and hammer in the new one.
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:34 PM   #27
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Well, this may be a "sacrificial" part -- but from just this very small sample of folks posting, it seems that many of us have been sacrificing cash to replace this cantankerous part. But, then our sacrifice is coins in the coffer for the manufacturer. And it is a total PITA to have to deal with that roller pin as well, especially if you're on the road and don't carry a punch, a hammer, a vise grip, etc. I won't even begin to mention how the (optional) rear awning works....though I will tell you that those two supports are very difficult to keep in their brackets. I have a number of dents in the aluminum to prove it...not to sound whiney (well, maybe a little)...
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:36 AM   #28
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Hi, although we don't use our awning very much, I have never broken any part of it. Maybe they should have made the large part of the pin even larger making it impossible for people to connect it in-correctly. I also use Velcro at the top of my awning arms for extra protection.
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:50 AM   #29
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Is the part always breaking at the rivet point?
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:56 AM   #30
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All four of mine broke at the rivet.
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:12 AM   #31
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All four of mine broke at the rivet.
Have you tried drilling tne hole bigger on the claw? Maybe the rivet is putting too much pressure on the casting rate her than floating?
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:24 AM   #32
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...or a machine screw and washer?
Sue
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:31 AM   #33
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Neither would make the claw fit smugly.
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:45 PM   #34
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Neither would make the claw fit smugly.
The claw on my 1999 is original and not "tight"... Just sayin.
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:39 PM   #35
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Rear Awning supports

Quote:
Originally Posted by BAB View Post
..... I won't even begin to mention how the (optional) rear awning works....though I will tell you that those two supports are very difficult to keep in their brackets. I have a number of dents in the aluminum to prove it...not to sound whiney (well, maybe a little)...
I agree, the rear awning supports need to be re-designed. I also have multiple dents and scars in the aluminum. I've taped up the ends (rubber protective caps have both disappeared), but it makes little difference. I suppose these are designed this way because the back window is also a fire escape?
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Old 08-12-2013, 04:05 AM   #36
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Both of mine look to be fine.
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Old 10-20-2013, 07:48 AM   #37
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Does anyone have directions to replace the claw?
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Old 10-20-2013, 09:03 AM   #38
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Punch out the pin holding the claw arm. Install new arm with new claw attached. Take a small hammer and drive the new pin in and you're done. Make sure you have the new claw facing the same direction as the one you removed..
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Old 10-24-2013, 11:36 AM   #39
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Great, thanks!
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Old 02-22-2015, 11:08 AM   #40
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I broke one of the claws in a similar fashion...rolled up the awning at night and didn't get the claw in the right place on the pin. I called ZipDee and they sent a new claw, as well as replacement pins with a larger diameter base...this is supposed to help ensure the claw goes in the right place. I also bought a spare claw...hopefully I won't need it.

Broken claw, new parts, and installed replacement claw and pin:
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