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Old 07-17-2020, 12:52 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Have you determined that the rear arm is perfectly plumb?����
Yes.
Mine does not attach at the floor line like yours. My bottom clamp is on the rivet line just like the roof clamp, therefore, they're aligned.

In a masochistic way, I love this challenge. Looking at the relationship of all the parts and troubleshooting.
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Old 07-23-2020, 09:49 AM   #42
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BTW, you might ask why I'd take 1/2" out of the lower hinge bar rather than the upper arm. Because shortening the upper arm changes the relationship between the Rafter arm and the main arm.
The rafter arm attaches to the curved roof clamp, then stores on the main arm for travel. I want to keep that the same. Shortening the lower hinge bar just moves the main arm down 1/2". The roof clamp will move also.
(or that's what it feels like now)
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Old 07-24-2020, 05:50 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Have you determined that the rear arm is perfectly plumb?
Ours was not and the rear lock was just like yours.
Note the screws in the original holes in the first photo.
Also how the rivet heads are visible all the way to the top.

Bob
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I wanted to drill a new hole in the lower hinge arm too, but on mine - Minuet 6 Metre - the upper arm and the lower hinge arm meet inside that tube piece. If I wanted to use another hole in the lower hinge arm I'd need to cut off some of the upper arm. I actually thought about trying to fashion longer screws for the awning wheels to catch on. Mine line up approximately but they're too far from the surface of the trailer to screw the wheels onto the screws without pushing on the arms.
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Old 07-24-2020, 08:20 AM   #44
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I wanted to drill a new hole in the lower hinge arm too, but on mine the upper arm and the lower hinge arm meet inside that tube piece. If I wanted to use another hole in the lower hinge arm I'd need to cut off some of the upper arm.
I didn't think of that. However, the lower hinge bar stops against the bolt holding the rafter arm storage fitting (called the 'step spacer'). I'd probably test fit and then cut that one. I bought another lower hinge bar from Zip Dee in case I made a mistake and wanted to return to the stock piece, which I've done once.

If your awning wheel is too high to clamp, perhaps you have the problem I had in the rear, namely, the awning roll is pushed up by the roof channel. That happened to me when I lengthened the lower hinge bar to make the clamp align.


I might note that the head casting never actually touches the roof channel. That's because the fabric built up on the roller has a larger diameter than the casting itself.

The other head scratcher is if the "travel hook" will align if I move the roller down 1/2".
I think so, because I have to tug on it now to hook.
I always wondered why the hook is at the back instead of the front?
Seems like that's where the wind first catches it.
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Old 07-24-2020, 01:09 PM   #45
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"I always wondered why the hook is at the back instead of the front?

Seems like that's where the wind first catches it."

I've always wondered the same thing.
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Old 08-18-2020, 03:30 PM   #46
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Front lock....

....Has been a PITA for 17 Seasons....Today it ended.😂👍

My DW heard me %)(%$$*^&ing a blue streak as I tried to get that miserable front locking wheel in the slot and`locked with that mickey mouse rod that JC engeneered.
She smiled and said…”Why don’t you stand in the open the door, reach over and tighten it by hand?” As she winked and dropped the microphone.
Damn, I LOVE that woman.🥰

Bob
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Old 08-18-2020, 05:03 PM   #47
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And while you are there standing up in the doorway, wrap your nice strong Velcro safety strap around the awning arms below the locks just in case...

I have a couple 2” wide ones that came off a walking removable cast I had used for my ankle injury.
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Old 08-18-2020, 05:06 PM   #48
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I gave up the rod years ago. I use a step stool.
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Old 08-18-2020, 05:43 PM   #49
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Awning wheel.

I’ll admit to occasionally stubbornly using the stupid rod as a coordination check. So far I have passed that test. The main awning has been deployed maybe three times since we got the Airstream...we mostly use the smaller streetside or rear one.
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Old 08-18-2020, 05:44 PM   #50
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[QUOTE=rmkrum;2399293]And while you are there standing up in the doorway, wrap your nice strong Velcro safety strap around the awning arms below the locks just in case...

I have a couple 2” wide ones that came off a walking removable cast I had used for my ankle injury.[/QUOTe

Ahhh...zip ties.

I just ordered these last week rubber backed non-slip reusables.
Perfect first use.

Bob
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Old 08-18-2020, 07:11 PM   #51
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Sometimes rear wheel does not line up in cut out, my solution was simple I never use wand but have 2 step plastic stool that folds flat, then if wheel not in slot I squeeze both arms together just below slot then every thing lines up, but doesn't happen every time just depends how I role awning up.
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Old 08-18-2020, 07:50 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
I’ll admit to occasionally stubbornly using the stupid rod as a coordination check. So far I have passed that test. The main awning has been deployed maybe three times since we got the Airstream...we mostly use the smaller streetside or rear one.
Your comment about a coordination check is spot on. If you can get the wheel turning with the rod you are good to go!
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Old 08-18-2020, 08:07 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
....Has been a PITA for 17 Seasons....Today it ended.����

My DW heard me %)(%$$*^&ing a blue streak as I tried to get that miserable front locking wheel in the slot and`locked with that mickey mouse rod that JC engeneered.
She smiled and said…”Why don’t you stand in the open the door, reach over and tighten it by hand?” As she winked and dropped the microphone.
Damn, I LOVE that woman.��

Bob
����
Using the rod to play with that wheel got old really quick. I went out and bought a two step aluminum ladder. I get on that second step reach and loosen or lock the wheel as necessary. Quick and easy! https://www.grainger.com/product/4XN...g!439500474908!

Jack
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